Is "cavitation" normal on drag from stop-to 15-20mph on an gtx supercharged 04?

[brobertov8]

Hi Guys,

When I "drag" from zero to 15 or 20mph, I can clearing listen cavitation (if was in a car, I would have tires burning).... after 20mph no problem....

Is that normal in an 04 GTX Supercharged? Or should it drag perfectly without any cavitation?

Sorry, first time in a 4tec supercharged.

Thanks

 

[red2blue]

Hi Guys,

When I "drag" from zero to 15 or 20mph, I can clearing listen cavitation (if was in a car, I would have tires burning).... after 20mph no problem....

Is that normal in an 04 GTX Supercharged? Or should it drag perfectly without any cavitation?...Thanks

No...it's not normal.

 

[brobertov8]

Possible cause?

Thanks

 

[brobertov8]

Maybe it´s the wear ring?

If yes, could someone please watch this video and tell me if it´s similar process in the gtx SC?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Wz-lggIsW4

on the other hand, I don´t see any gap on the wear ring. it loos very tiny. I checked beside the hull and behind on the pump.... looks really tiny without clearances.

Image attached.



THANK YOU

 

[Coastiejoe]

It is not normal to "SLIP" or act like spinning tires. If there is no gap (nothing larger than the width of a dime) then the carbon seal is the next place to look. They allow air from within the hull to pass through the seal area allowthe air to pass through the impeller.

 

[brobertov8]

Hi Joe,

There are risks on the wear ring, but for sure nothing larger than the width of a dime.

Please, where can I find the carbon seal, and what to look there?

thanks

 

[Coastiejoe]

The carbon seal is what is suppose to stop water from entering the hull. It is a floating type design. The rubber boot pushes against the seal and is lubricated by the actual water the hull is sitting in. So it will leak, but we are talking drips, not a stream. If it leaks more than a drip, it needs serviced.

 

[red2blue]

remove pump and using spark plug feeler gauges check the clearance between ring and prop.

.010-.015 acceptable.....even less is better.

 

[brobertov8]

Thanks Guys, I will remove the pump and check the clearance.

Once I get the pump removed, it will be easy remove the drive shaft for also an inspection and to clean it (there are signs of some corrosion on it).

Thanks

 

[brobertov8]

remove pump and using spark plug feeler gauges check the clearance between ring and prop.

.010-.015 acceptable.....even less is better.

Hi Red2blue and Folks,

Just removed the pump today, the wear ring looks ok regarding the clearance.... but I don´t know if it is normal: Gap is less than 0.10 from one side and more than 0.40 on the other side, on each "spades" of the propeler.

Pictures one (less than 0.10mm) and two (more than 0.40mm):


Thank You!

 

[red2blue]

Hi Red2blue and Folks,

Just removed the pump today, the wear ring looks ok regarding the clearance.... but I don´t know if it is normal: Gap is less than 0.10 from one side and more than 0.40 on the other side, on each "spades" of the propeler.

Pictures one (less than 0.10mm) and two (more than 0.40mm):
View attachment 26231View attachment 26232

Thank You!

Ring is toast. Better check the grease in that pump and cone...I'm seeing water contamination on those splines. Where's the prop's nose cone? Prop looks kinda rough too....those leading edges....not rounded at the ring...odd.

 

[brobertov8]

Ring is toast. Better check the grease in that pump and cone...I'm seeing water contamination on those splines. Where's the prop's nose cone? Prop looks kinda rough too....those leading edges....not rounded at the ring...odd.

Thanks for your reply.
So it´s tosted, correct? Should it gap 0.15-0.10 on every part of the spades, correct? I just bought a new one, and will change it ASAP.

Please find attached the pictures from the nose cone.
Any other suggestions, please feel welcome.



Thanks.

 

[red2blue]

Take the cone off the pump...check the grease...if it ain't been done yet...swap it all out with new clean marine grease. I swear it looks like someone's filed off some of every leading edge of that prop. Check the sacrificial anodes in the pump area...lots of corrosion building up in places it shouldn't be.

You didn't answer my question earlier...where's the prop's nose cone?

 

[red2blue]

Yes.... .010-.015 between every blade all the way around the ring.

The green thing on the back of the pump is the pump cone...there should be attached in front of the prop...another cone. It' adds a seal on the shaft protecting the pump's bearings from water intrusion.

 

[red2blue]

You can run w/o a prop cone....in fresh water...but preventative maintenance is strictly required after every ride. I wouldn't think about running w/o one in salt water.

 

[brobertov8]

You can run w/o a prop cone....in fresh water...but preventative maintenance is strictly required after every ride. I wouldn't think about running w/o one in salt water.

Hi,

I tought the prop cone was that green thing. On two strokes seadoo there is oil there. I believe this one has grease, correct?
Do you mean this rubber?? (Pictures attached).

I´ve found just one sacrificial anode, is that correct?? There is one also on the ski.

Thanks

 

[red2blue]

Yes...that rubber thing is the prop nose cone...

Anodes are cheap insurance. They are only effective for so long...especially in salt.

 

[brobertov8]

Yes...that rubber thing is the prop nose cone...

Anodes are cheap insurance. They are only effective for so long...especially in salt.

Okay!! Thanks once again.
I inspected the cone and thanks god, there was not water there... only pure and clean grease.

Also did a "rebuild" in the pump parts, trying to remove corrosion and will paint in a few minutes.

Pictures:

 

[red2blue]

Okay...grease should be dark....clear...not opaque.

The second pic where you fingered the grease away from the bearing show's what that stuff should look like. The lighter cloudy looking stuff in pics 1 and 3 show water contamination. Get it all (the cloudy stuff)out of there. If you've disassembled the pump before and the grease is looking like it is now...means water is getting into the bearing. Gotta keep an eye on that or it'll only get worse for the pump.

 

[brobertov8]

Okay...grease should be dark....clear...not opaque.

The second pic where you fingered the grease away from the bearing show's what that stuff should look like. The lighter cloudy looking stuff in pics 1 and 3 show water contamination. Get it all (the cloudy stuff)out of there. If you've disassembled the pump before and the grease is looking like it is now...means water is getting into the bearing. Gotta keep an eye on that or it'll only get worse for the pump.

Okay. Just bought this ski last month. According to previous owner, only had the pump revised on 40hours before.
Do you think I have to remove all this grease and put new synthethic grease? Or can I keep that?

Thanks You

 

[red2blue]

First off....what kinda water do you ride in.

Personally...I don't like your prop.....I'll see if can scrounge up some oem pics and compare...I swear your's has been altered. Second..even if it hasn't..that prop nose cone is misshaped. At the very least...with everything being good...I'd get a new one...not expensive.

As for the grease....just get the cloudy looking stuff out of there. For peace of mind...I'd remove every bit of what is in that and replace with new marine grease...ain't got to be high dollar synthetic...$2 a tube marine grease will be fine.

It must be marine grease. After I was done loading up the pump cone and bearing...I'd hit the wheel bearings on the trailer.

 

[brobertov8]

First off....what kinda water do you ride in.

Personally...I don't like your prop.....I'll see if can scrounge up some oem pics and compare...I swear your's has been altered. Second..even if it hasn't..that prop nose cone is misshaped. At the very least...with everything being good...I'd get a new one...not expensive.

As for the grease....just get the cloudy looking stuff out of there. For peace of mind...I'd remove every bit of what is in that and replace with new marine grease...ain't got to be high dollar synthetic...$2 a tube marine grease will be fine.

It must be marine grease. After I was done loading up the pump cone and bearing...I'd hit the wheel bearings on the trailer.

I´m more than 350 miles from salt water, live on the montains, so I ride on fresh water almost forever.
Looks like PO did ride some day on salt water. I dont know what they could did to this prop, it should be oem.

I´ll look for a new one prop nose cone.

The cloudy looking stuff you say it´s not that green grease, is it? Probably it is that almost white stuffs, correct?

Regarding the trailer a choose to buy a brand new one.

In time, please, do you know how to remove this seal?


thank you

 

[red2blue]

The light green stuff is contaminated grease....in your post #18, first and third pic. It should look like the dark stuff underneath it...the second pic in post #18.

Is that a wheel bearing in your last pic?

 

[brobertov8]

The light green stuff is contaminated grease....in your post #18, first and third pic. It should look like the dark stuff underneath it...the second pic in post #18.

Is that a wheel bearing in your last pic?

Thanks about the tips regarding the grease.

Actually is the rear crankshaft bearing seal. I removed it in a few minutes, and it´s just a "rubber". I will replace it.

 

[brobertov8]

The light green stuff is contaminated grease....in your post #18, first and third pic. It should look like the dark stuff underneath it...the second pic in post #18.

Is that a wheel bearing in your last pic?

You told I can use marine grease, can be the regular one (white)?

I removed the ring also, and I will install the new one once it arrives.

Thanks a Lot for all the attention you provided!