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I sunk my '96 XP - What all needs to be dried out?

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dperkinstx

dperkinstx

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Just to be clear...yes, I'm an idiot. I had the plug in the ski and still managed to sink it. I removed the floor mats by drilling out all the rivets. I was going to epoxy the holes and install new Black Tip mats after a quick ride. Those little holes let enough water in to sink the XP.

Water was completely over the motor. I got the water out and onto the trailer, then brought it home. I opened up the electrical box in the back of the ski. There is a solenoid and coil. I removed all wires, cleaned them up, sanded the connections to get rid of any corrosion. The box was full of brown water - I pumped out the water and cleaned it up. I checked the fuses - they're good.

I removed the battery connections, cleaned all wires to get rid of any corrosion. I checked the battery - still showing 12 volts.

I opened up the VTS box. It was wet so I dried & cleaned everything.

I opened the electrical box in the front of the ski. It was dry. Still, I disconnected all connectors and blew them out with my air compressor.

I removed both spark plugs.

I connected the key...chirp chirp. I pressed the start button...one chirp, then nothing.
I got a screwdriver and jumped the solenoid. The motor cranked over and blew out a LOT of water.

First things first... is my solenoid fried, or do I have some other electrical issue?
 
It is imperative that you get the water out of the motor. The best way is to get the motor started and run it. I know the hour is late if you can get the motor started run it on the hose at high idle, spray some water on the carbon seal, even if you loose a carbon seal it's better than loosing an engine. If you can't get the motor started pull the heads and jugs and get some heat into the bottom of the motor, a heat gun if you have one or even a hair dryer. If rust sets up on the crank bearings your engine is done.

Lou
 
whoa,,,,first get all the water out of the motor ASAP. Do the jumping one more time then try pressing the start button again and see what happens. Don't let it crank for more than 5-7 seconds and let the starter cool off for a minute before trying it again.

Try starting it once all the water is removed, 0nce it starts then take it for a nice long ride on the lake for about 20-30 minutes.

*****EDIT****
Lou beat me to it, I forgot about the time it is now 10:30pm..... do what he says and hope for the best
 
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I cranked on it a LOT with the plugs out. Water is no longer blowing out. However, the start button will not engage the starter. I have to use a screwdriver to jump over the solenoid. I cranked on it until the battery faded. It's on a charger now.

I haven't tried to crank it with the plugs and plug wires installed. Since my start button isn't making the ski crank over, I'm concerned about what electrical components are hurt.

I doubt I'll get my wife out there at this hour. I can't arc the solenoid, pull the choke and press the throttle all at the same time.

To recap... I'm more concerned with the electrical components than the motor at this point.
 
I have another post about this XP. I have a bad seal on the crank. Oil leaks into my cylinders whenever it sits up. If it sits up longer than a month, I have to remove the plugs and blow the oil out of it. I smokes like crazy when I crank it for the first time. I've been waiting for the thing to blow up so I can get it rebuilt. I'm doing all I can to save it but if it's ruined it won't be the worst thing in the world.
 
Yes it would there are plenty of great running Seadoo's with tired inner crank seals. Get it going soon and run it hard, then enjoy for years.
 
If your personal biggest concern is electronics, check for 12 volts at the small wire at the solenoid. There are two small wires, the black is the ground, the other is the feed wire from the start button. Check for volts at the feed wire when pressing the start button. If you have 12 jolts or so then the solenoid is bad. If not, then you need to test the start switch to make sure it is work. If so, then backward into the MPEM. If not, replace the switch.


Repairing and selling iPads, iPhones and Mini iPads.
 
Coastiejoe said:
If your personal biggest concern is electronics, check for 12 volts at the small wire at the solenoid. There are two small wires, the black is the ground, the other is the feed wire from the start button. Check for volts at the feed wire when pressing the start button. If you have 12 jolts or so then the solenoid is bad. If not, then you need to test the start switch to make sure it is work. If so, then backward into the MPEM. If not, replace the switch.


Repairing and selling iPads, iPhones and Mini iPads.
Click to expand...

The two small wires are in a single clip that connects to the solenoid. I used my multimeter and put the prongs onto the two wires in the clip. I attached the key and pressed the start button. I got a voltage reading of a little less than 12. So I think the solenoid is bad.

The voltage was less than 12 because I was cranking on the engine a lot before thinking to test the starter button at the solenoid connection.

I cranked on it last night with no spark plugs, blowing out water, until I pretty much ran down the battery. I put the battery on a slow charge overnight. This morning I cranked a little more. Then I sprayed some starter fluid into each cylinder and installed the plugs and wires. I cranked some more. The motor hit and a bunch of water blew out the exhaust hole. I pulled the plugs out, dried the plugs off, cranked the motor with the plugs to see if water would blow out, then did the starter fluid thing again. Same thing happened 3 or 4 times, until the battery began to weaken. I put it back on charge and will try again in a few hours.
 
Under 12 volts is not enough for an accurate test. At 10.8 for exams the MPEM no longer operates properly and you can easily lose spark.

Charge the battery and retest.


Repairing and selling iPads, iPhones and Mini iPads.
 
I got it running. It would run for about 60 seconds, then die. I'd pull the plugs, clean them, and start it again. My wife stood by at the water faucet. When it started, she opened the faucet, when it died, she'd shut it off.

The ski never ran for more than about 60 seconds before it would die. But it eventually got to where I didn't have to clean the plugs - it would start back up with just a bump of the solenoid. I did this multiple times until I noticed the low battery warning blinking. The motor was getting pretty warm but not hot.

I'm not sure why it would run for 60 seconds and die because the plugs were no longer fouling.

I'll run it some more tomorrow after work. Fingers crossed it isn't ruined.

I won't be able to put it into the water until (a) I get a solenoid, (b) I plug the holes in the floorboard, (c) it keeps running on its own.
 
If at all possible. You should take it to the ramp on the trailer so you can get it up to temp. I am certain you still have water in the block. You do to want it to rust. It can very easily wipe out the crank and cylinders.
 
If it's running for a minute or less don't worry about turning the hose on and off, you're probably doing more hard than good with the hose.

Lou
 
Fog the living shit out of the motor if you are not going to be able to run it any more. Will at least make it harder for it to rust
 
I will go back after work and run it some more. I'd like to figure out why it dies after running for 60 seconds. I don't think it's fouling the plugs with water any more because it cranks right back up. I will also fill in the rivet holes with epoxy. Places that sell parts for these are probably all closed on Monday so I still don't have a solenoid.

As for as why I haven't put it in the water: (a) I still have the open rivet holes (b) I can't start it witout arcing the solenoid with a screwdriver (c) So far it dies after running for about a minute. I'd have to ride it with the electrical components out of their box and no seat. If it dies every 60 seconds I'd be sitting still on the water with no seat on the XP, reaching down with a screwdriver trying to restart it. Keep in mind this is a '96 XP - not the most stable machine when sitting still in the water. I just don't see that ending well.
 
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This evening the solenoid decided to work when I pressed the start button. The ski fired up and ran just fine. I ran it for about 30 minutes with a water hose connected. It ran fine the whole time, responding well to throttle input, idling, etc. I killed it, restarted it, revved it up, let it idle. All the gauges appear to be working. The VTS is working, speedo is working. I'm cautiously optimistic at this point.

While it was running, I mixed up a batch of West Marine epoxy and filled the rivet holes.

Tomorrow after work I will put in in the water and give it a ride.
 
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:o:o:facepalm: You meant to say 30 seconds, right?

Very happy to hear that your running good but I would replace the carbon seal after that one.
 
dperkinstx said:
This evening the solenoid decided to work when I pressed the start button. The ski fired up and ran just fine. I ran it for about 30 minutes with a water hose connected. It ran fine the whole time, responding well to throttle input, idling, etc. I killed it, restarted it, revved it up, let it idle. All the gauges appear to be working. The VTS is working, speedo is working. I'm cautiously optimistic at this point.

While it was running, I mixed up a batch of West Marine epoxy and filled the rivet holes.

Tomorrow after work I will put in in the water and give it a ride.
Click to expand...

Congrats on it running. But if you did mean 30 minutes I can't image you have a shaft seal left.
 
I put the XP in the water today. It ran as well as before I sank it. I also think my shaft seal is OK - nothing leaked. After riding for a while, the oil warning light came on. The oil tank is pretty low - I'm hoping I just need to add oil.

Only time will tell, but for now, I'm amazed at how well the XP bounced back from being sank.
 
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