i bought a ski that has purple oil in it is it quicksilver full syn?

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bigmykesboat

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i have a ski an ive read the forums that say dont mix oil so there is purple oil in the tank is that the quicksilver full synthetic or dose anyone know who makes purple oil?thank you
 
there are more than one purple oil, i think penzoil syn is purple as well, so really, w/o tasting it you can't tell.

quicksilver will taste like liquid dog chit and make you puke
penzoil will taste like cat chit and make you puke and give you diarrhea.

if you prefer not to taste the oil then maybe just call the previous owner, or drain the oil (properly) and start over.
 
sorry, but you just can't look at oil in a oil tank and say.. "yip, that's brand X,full syn" unless your the one that poured it in there

if you don't ask the previous owner, then the penalty is simple.. drain it and replace it with known good oil of the proper type
 
i have a ski an ive read the forums that say dont mix oil so there is purple oil in the tank is that the quicksilver full synthetic or dose anyone know who makes purple oil?thank you

I agree partly here with others, if you are unsure, then drain and refill with quality oil...

Mystik JT4
Yamalube 2W
Citgo sea and snow

and several others are purple...
 
I honestly think you are ok. I havent seen a TCW3 oil or other "harmful" oil that was purple. You can even go from semi synthetic to full synthetic no problem. If it was me, i would just use quicksilver PWC full synthetic.
 
the penzoil full syn tcw3 is either purple or blue depending on your "man's" view on colors.
so IMO there is at least one Tcw3 oil that can meet that description, i know this because I used penzoil for a good 2 years on both my yami and my seadoo. (then i learned that seadoo took different oils, and switched) and contrary to some posts that say tcw3 will eat up your motor in a matter of hours, it won't, i easily put 70+ hours on my doo before I realized i was running the wrong oil, but it did gum up my raves...

with that said, heck, i might even consider just riding the ski until most of that oil is gone, then drain & replace, so as not to waste the oil, but that's not advice, just an option, the owner has to make that decision for themselves. I'll never advise running the wrong oil, or what could possibly be the wrong oil.

it really boils down to the fact that if you buy a ski and don't know 100% for sure what was used, then its best to drain, & replace rather than take a chance, in most cases that means your throwing away about $20 worth of oil, no biggie, you'll be throwing away plenty more money every time you take the ski out on the weekend.

$20 worth of wasted oil is just a drop in the pwc expense budget, not even worth considering.
 
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reminds me of a skit by my frirnds cheech an chong where cheech makes chong touch the dog chit then smell the dog chitan finally taste the dog chit an they were happy they dident step in it ! i think im going to just drain it an then start over oil filter as well thanks for your help an humor this world would be terriable without either!
 
since im starting over sea doo or quicksilver oil ? an dont base you answer on what state im from or who played michigan on last saturday i say rool tide first the go blue! your quarterback looks to be real good you have some great talent on that michagan team!
 
if i drain my tank an change my oil filter should i take out my spark plugs an turn the engine over a few times to reprime the oil system an for how long should i turn it over for an i was also told to add 1 oz of the oil to the gas as a extra measure is that a good idea dose anyone else do that ? thank you!
 
That's the way Lou does it, but you can also run it at idle then open the oil pump to full manually until all is primed (from pump to cylinders). BTW, gravity will fill the lines from the tank to the pump.

Dr honda told me to run some oil in the fuel for the first tank to be sure all air is out of the oil lines....40:1 is 3.2oz of oil per gallon of gas in the tank. I used about 2-3 oz per gallon since I could see the oil being pumped thru the line......I did it for safety sake. It smokes a little more for awhile, after I used about half of tank of gas I topped off the gas but DIDN'T add oil again.
 
I choose quicksilver because its easier to find. I use to have a sea doo dealer right up the street but they have shut down. I can get the quicksilver at most wal marts. If i had a source for it somewhere, i honestly would be using the mystik jt4, its a good oil and cheaper than most others.
 
Myke, oils don't mix well per Dr Honda on a number of threads so to replace is the best route. As Spimothy put it, you could just run it out. It makes less mess when you do go to drain and clean. I bought the Mystik at Academy for half the Seadoo price. The guy I bought mine from was using Quicksilver. Several people on here claim to use it with good results. Again, these toys are a luxury item and we will spend a great deal more on gas than oil, so it really may come down to what is easier to get your hands on and not the price. Our shop is in Homewood and not convenient to you or me so I chose the Academy brand. I drive by one no matter which way I come home so it made sense. Your last post is what I plan to do when mine run low enough. I am going to replace all the lines as well since I have no idea when that was done, especially the little injection lines.

How's the pump going? I want to do a test run soon if you think you might want to join in, PM me.
 
dont drain the tank all the way leave alittle bit in there, pull the bottom end of the filter off first put new filter in its place make sure the filter arrow is facing the right direction as they make some ass backwards, pull old filter and put that line on new filter, new pull the bottom line back off and put you finger over the end and let out the air and close it off a few times untill oil comes out put line back on and fill your tank up, its better to make sure there is not a whole lot of air in the lines, the only diferance in tcw-3 and the ones seadoo recomends is the additives that help with carbon build up and better lubrication, anyone who says you will burn a seadoo motor up in a few hours, with like Penzsoil semi syn. TCW-3 is a Moron.
 
laff @ the cheech & chong reference, whenever I hear those names all i can think of is this...

[video=youtube;HUrpWVFnmcI]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUrpWVFnmcI&feature=player_detailpage[/video]

sorry its in spanish, i was too lazy to find the clip in english :)

anyway, back to the topic .... we all seem to agree, either replace now or run & replace very soon, follow the instructions and you'll be fine :)
 
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I use Penzoil TCW-3 Marine synthetic blend on of my boats and Yamaha, looks blue to me not purple, Yamalube and other products like that dont have there own refineries and get there oil from the big companys and stick there label on it, so I am not sold on this whole blow up the motor thing, just because there was that oil in it on that OLD ski just maybe it was its time to go and not the oils fault, let me ask you this why can I run it in my GP1200R and not the seadoo, they are made of metel rings and pistons right, the only logical thing I can come up with is that the additive in the non tcw-3 help with carbon build up, such as hurting the Rave valves, as they use a vacume and rubber o-ring system as the Yamahas use nothing but machanical metal for there power valve system, cleaned both recently and there was hardly any build up in the Yamaha power valves, but cant say the same for the seadoo, there is slightly more build up on top of the Yamys pistons then on the seadoo , but for anyone that has used this in a factory motor with low hours, not rebuilt and it blew up please let me know.
 
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