HX 717 gets hot after shutting off and alarm buzzes upon restart

[96spxpos]

Hey All,

Hope all is well with everyone... Had some "issues" I've been tending to but was finally able to get a few rides in. So, when ON the hose and keeping carbon ring wet, I get a NICE STRONG flow from the pisser, pipe and jugs are completely COOL to the touch. After I turn hose and ski off, the pipe gets WARM, but not devastatingly hot. When I'm out on the water, ski runs great, water is flowing from pisser, but definitely not as strong as when on hose. When I shut the ski off, the pipe is already pretty hot. After hanging on the beach for a bit, When I go to start it back up, the alarm buzzes momentarily and as soon as I give it gas, the alarm goes away. Get back to house, put it on hose, STRONG pisser flow, cool pipe, head, etc.

I even blew out the pump/drain lines and there's NO clog whatsoever.

Compression is good, fresh set of carbs, etc.

Any ideas as to what else? The ski does NOT cavitate. (I've heard that a cavitating impeller can reduce pump intake water amount)

To sum it up, it seems as if the ski isn't getting as much water IN the water as it is while on the hose.

 

[96spxpos]

Hey All,

Hope all is well with everyone... Had some "issues" I've been tending to but was finally able to get a few rides in. So, when ON the hose and keeping carbon ring wet, I get a NICE STRONG flow from the pisser, pipe and jugs are completely COOL to the touch. After I turn hose and ski off, the pipe gets WARM, but not devastatingly hot. When I'm out on the water, ski runs great, water is flowing from pisser, but definitely not as strong as when on hose. When I shut the ski off, the pipe is already pretty hot. After hanging on the beach for a bit, When I go to start it back up, the alarm buzzes momentarily and as soon as I give it gas, the alarm goes away. Get back to house, put it on hose, STRONG pisser flow, cool pipe, head, etc.

I even blew out the pump/drain lines and there's NO clog whatsoever.

Compression is good, fresh set of carbs, etc.

Any ideas as to what else? The ski does NOT cavitate. (I've heard that a cavitating impeller can reduce pump intake water amount)

To sum it up, it seems as if the ski isn't getting as much water IN the water as it is while on the hose.

Update: I just double checked ALL of the hoses and EVERYTHING is hooked up correctly as per manual, and ALL lines are clear. Wondering if it's a faulty temp sensor?

 

[Mickirig1]

Change the sensor. You cleared all the other causes.

 

[Mekanix]

If you have a quick disconnect for flushing that can act as a restrictor.

Remove the sensor. Connect it to a multimeter and put it into a pot of water.
Use a thermometer and heat up the water untill it clicks.
Read the thermometer and that way you will know it works at the right temp.

Just because you have water flow doesnt mean the chanels arent restricted with white oxydization.

 

[96spxpos]

Yea Micki I was thinking of changing it because I have a spare.
[MENTION=64286]Mekanix[/MENTION] , this ski doesn't have the quick disconnect, you just thread the hose to a flushing tube that is molded to the pump housing.

what temp should the temp sensor click at?

Also, has anyone ever used a temp gun and read the temp of their engine after it is shut off? what temp would that be? I read somewhere that 160 should be operating temp WHILE water is flowing thru. Is that true?

Thanks guys

 

[wfo speedracer]

yes somewhere between 150 and 160, I have a gauge setup here that I rigged up using a temp sender off of a motorcycle that had the same threads, this is precisely the temps I was getting

 

[96spxpos]

I just got this out of the manual. BOTH ranges say CELSIUS, so I'm assuming it's a typo and the temps in parenthesis are the Fahrenheit readings

 

[96spxpos]

[MENTION=75495]wfo speedracer[/MENTION] I guess my question is then, If you're operating at between 150-160 with water running thru it, AFTER you shut the ski off and wait a few minutes, does your reading get higher now that its off and no water is running thru? Like does it go up to 180 degrees?

 

[wfo speedracer]

I can't answer that one, I have never checked to see, I can say that bad temp senders are a common issue, I would just replace it and see what happens

 

[96spxpos]

Yea I think I might do that.. I just took this out.. Does this look bad compared to one's you guys have taken out? Also [MENTION=64286]Mekanix[/MENTION] I tried testing with an ohmmeter and couldn't really get a reading. I was told to set the ohmmeter to 2k and put red lead on top where wire clips on and black lead on the copper base/nut.. I got nothing. I even tried it at 20k and 200k. Still nothing. Is that how it's done?

 

[wfo speedracer]

The ones I have taken out didn't look any different than the new ones I put in.

 

[96spxpos]

ahh, ok, so the ones you put in looked new and not toasty like mine....

 

[wfo speedracer]

Not being a smartass but it's not a spark plug, you can't diagnose it's condition by looking at it

 

[96spxpos]

I hear ya but the one I took out was literally toasted with carbon. The spare one I had didn't look anywhere near as "bad" as the one I took out. Did the ohm readings on both of them. got absolutely NO READING or ANY changes from the old one. was getting readings with the used spare one..including when putting it in 200+ degrees water.

next step is to put the used spare one in, see if it happens again, and if it does or doesn't, either way, I just bought a temp gun, so I'll get temp readings when its running on water.

 

[1of500]

Feel the water coming out the pisser next time it happens. You may have sand in the cylinder water jackets.

 

[96spxpos]

[MENTION=73220]1of500[/MENTION] , I was thinking that to be the case since all the lines are clear. In your experience, would you get such a strong shooting stream out of the pisser while on the hose if you had sand in the water jackets?

 

[1of500]

You can still get a stream with sand in the jugs it settles

 

[1of500]

If it wasn't a salt boat I would say pull the head and see

 

[96spxpos]

Yea well that's what it's looking to be. The good thing is this motor has been cracked open lately as I see fresh bolt heads. And I've still got that newer head from you I'd like to put on anyway.
Yea, I tested the temp sensors and they're both fine

 

[1of500]

[MENTION=48897]96spxpos[/MENTION] Pm sent

 

[Mekanix]

The sensor is supposed to be open until you heat it to 100c then the resistance goes to 0.

 

[96spxpos]

[MENTION=73220]1of500[/MENTION] I didn't get any PM. I only had 13 msgs and I just deleted them all anyway, no PM Tho.
Just took the head off. Salty as hell. Will post pics shortly. (Had to take it off, accidentally over tightened sensor and it broke off

 

[1of500]

It may be through tapatalk

 

[96spxpos]

So, I've clearly got some salt issues and apparently flushing religiously after every ride, even if it's only for 20 min, isn't enough. I guess I will have to start using salt away. Is there any additive I can use as of now to help break down some of this stuff? I read vinegar, CLR, lime something, some cleaner that has watered down hydrochloric acid, and others.. What will work?
Also, is there supposed to be standing water on the carb side under the head? Obviously the exhaust side has the ports for the water, but I've got some standing water on the carb side of the jugs. Is this ok?

 

[1of500]

Is there any sand is the salt blocking the water passages?