Help!!! new 2 me 2004 GTX Supercharged, W/only 54 hours, questions

[zok]

Picked this up, looks nice only 52 hours, changed the oil, removed 3 qts. replaced 3 qts 10-40 oil. went to lake, 57-60 mph tops, some cavitation coming out of the hole-3 steps,
holeshot good otherwise, impeller & race looks good otherwise, a little over 8k rpm & 57-60 mph bouncing back & forth with 200 lbs of rider at lake pleasant AZ. , worried about Supercharger Clutch so I removed the intake tube & can only move it 1-1/16 turn either way but it is had to do, seems like it is turning engine over, do I have anything to worry about? Going back to lake 88 miles in AM tomorrow otherwise.

Thank you,

Zok

 

[speedyih]

I just wanted to say first of all you suck! Ha just kidding I am jealous because I have been on here trying to figure out how to winterize mine and your still able to ride. Anyhow I have a 04 GTX about same hours as yours only its non super charged. It Cavatates a little coming out of the hole if you go from idle to wide open all at once. I think its normal. I would of thought yours would run faster than 60 though mine runs 55 with me and the wife on it. I dont think it cranks that many rpms though sadly its been a month since mine been in the water due to weather and my schedule so I cant remeber just how many rpms it runs. Any how thats all I know on your questions so it may of helped or it may not of.

 

[ski-d00]

did you change the oil filter when you changed the oil?

the non sc and the sc have a similar top end, around 60-62 mph. the sc just gets there a lot faster. if you're going 60mph, you're sc is working fine. you could change your wear ring and inspect your impeller closely and that should take care of the slight cavitation. I would say, go ride it, everything sounds fine.

 

[JFizzleJR]

If it's spinning more than 7700 RPM it's highly likely to be on the rev limiter. Deep on it in fact. It would bounce back and forth because the ignition timing is being cut each time it hits the limiter in efforts to drop the RPM. Having cavitation (when the wear ring is in good condition) hints at the carbon ring possibly getting worn down to an uncomfortable level. It's not hard to swap out for a new one. It takes 2 people if you aren't going to buy the expensive Seadoo driveshaft removal tool. A little tip in case you didn't try it is to hold the throttle wide open and crank the ski when you're trying to get oil out. It will get a little more out on top of that 3 qts.

Picked this up, looks nice only 52 hours, changed the oil, removed 3 qts. replaced 3 qts 10-40 oil. went to lake, 57-60 mph tops, some cavitation coming out of the hole-3 steps,
holeshot good otherwise, impeller & race looks good otherwise, a little over 8k rpm & 57-60 mph bouncing back & forth with 200 lbs of rider at lake pleasant AZ. , worried about Supercharger Clutch so I removed the intake tube & can only move it 1-1/16 turn either way but it is had to do, seems like it is turning engine over, do I have anything to worry about? Going back to lake 88 miles in AM tomorrow otherwise.

Thank you,

Zok

 

[ski-d00]

pretty sure the 4tec sc rev limiter is 8100, 7900-8000 is normal at wot.

 

[JFizzleJR]

pretty sure the 4tec sc rev limiter is 8100, 7900-8000 is normal at wot.

That's only on 215 HP and higher. The 04 GTX SC Limited was 185 HP and didn't come with a 215 HP option until 2005. The rev limiter is 7650 and you want to be approx. 100 RPM below that. You'll also see on advertisements for "performance kit" tests that their speed claims are at 7500 RPM, stock & modified.

 

[zok]

Thanks guys! I just returned from lake Pleasant!!! Put a couple more hours on her & set the digital tackometer & your right, 7700 RPM max at close to 60MPH. just under with a full tank & my big arse on it 210 lbs. There is really no cavitation felt, just maybe thought I heard it a little in the first second but it jumps out of the hole fast so everything is fine.

I did add an extra quart of oil, ran it for two minutes on the hose then drained a quart off, didn't really need to do that I guess, just being over careful, I compared oil color on a WHITE tissue to my buddys 2007 model 1100 Yamaha (non turbo) 4-cylinder with 26 hours & mine is WAY cleaner even after he changed his oil at 20 hours & I had 3 hours on the oil... Thanks a million! I guess the clutch washer thing was me being a little careful & that's it, just read 100 hrs was the time to do that.

My buddy weighs only 139 LBS compared to my 210LBS & I had a full tank where he was at 1/2 tank, skis run dead even at speed.

THANKS AGAIN!

I will check this later to see what else anyone has added to my reply.

Thanks again!

 

[zok]

Oops, add this;

Ohh, yea filter done & wear ring/impeller looks nice, no-wear visual compared to pics I have seen.! :hurray:

 

[red2blue]

Ohh, yea filter done & wear ring/impeller looks nice, no-wear visual compared to pics I have seen.! :hurray:

Uhm....that 10w/40 is for 4stroke motorcycles...not just any 10w/40.....right?

 

[zok]

10 w 40 oil

Uhm....that 10w/40 is for 4stroke motorcycles...not just any 10w/40.....right?

They want you to use SeaDoo oil but SeaDoo does not have oil wells, the walmart 10w40 is fine.

USE REGULAR OIL IN THIS ONE, NOT SYNTHETIC or a blend of because if you do, the clutch in supercharger will slip & cause unnecessary wear.

 

[madrone95503]

Just make sure you have the new washers in that supercharger. I lost mine at 60 hours

The synthetic oils makes the washers fail a lot sooner.

They want you to use SeaDoo oil but SeaDoo does not have oil wells, the walmart 10w40 is fine.

USE REGULAR OIL IN THIS ONE, NOT SYNTHETIC or a blend of because if you do, the clutch in supercharger will slip & cause unnecessary wear.

 

[dbdave]

They want you to use SeaDoo oil but SeaDoo does not have oil wells, the walmart 10w40 is fine.

USE REGULAR OIL IN THIS ONE, NOT SYNTHETIC or a blend of because if you do, the clutch in supercharger will slip & cause unnecessary wear.

With the newest BRP XPS Synthetic Blend 4 stroke summer grade oil, this is no longer the case. It can be used for either supercharged or normally aspirated watercraft.

 

[zok]

NOT to be used in Superchargers with old style clutch, new stainless washers ok but NEVER on composite clutch. Just stick with regular oil, do not use ANY synthetic blend or otherwise.

 

[dbdave]

NOT to be used in Superchargers with old style clutch, new stainless washers ok but NEVER on composite clutch. Just stick with regular oil, do not use ANY synthetic blend or otherwise.

You need to get more up to date on your information before posting on here.

 

[zok]

I spoke to SeaDoo engineers on this, my 2004 Supercharged GTX has stock supercharger & he said DO NOT use a blend until you put in kit # 420-881-150 the current Supercharger washer/bearing/clutch etc. replacement recommended at 100 hrs. Then Synthetic oil is recommended.

I informed him that 2 out of 3 of there dealers previously informed me to use SeaDoo synthetic in my engine as it currently is, the engineer from SeaDoo informed me that this will cause my supercharger to fail much quicker. I just try to be careful when recommending things & should have added that this is for old style Superchargers. Guess I took it for granted that all readers would have read the rest of my post & know I have a "STOCK" 2004 Supercharger where NO SYNTHETIC oil is recommended.

He informed me that they should send a monthly bulletin out instead of annually to there dealers because few of them read it all.

 

[dbdave]

Was this engineer aware of the change in formulation of the XPS oil? Again, the current 'summer blend' oil is for all 4 tech Sea Doos. The label on it specifically says 'supercharged or normally aspirated'. Beginning with your year superchargers, it is necessary for other reasons than slippage to change out the ceramic washers before they disintegrate. I'll agree with you that the BRP/dealer communication leaves a lot to be desired. Many dealers probably don't know of this change in oil.

 

[zok]

No they do not know, at least the three that I talked to. The engineer said there was a change in oil but still was very firm on using only non synthetic in models with old style washers.

 

[dbdave]

BRP no longer sells a straight mineral based oil for Sea doo. They have full syn and synthetic blend.

 

[zok]

That's why I got it at WalMart! I'd rather use a semi syn. but not with old style goodies in Supercharger.