HELP - Impeller removal

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HodgesZ28

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Jet Pump and everything is removed, trying to remove the impeller. I have the tool, but when it is in the vice, which way do you turn it? Clockwise or Counter Clockwise. It won't budge either way. The spines appear to be rusted on the drive shaft and impeller.
 
Also there is a bit of impeller damage on the edges of each blade. Would this cause cavitation? The wear ring only has a couple nicks in it.

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This rubber boot is torn and thin metal cone that goes on the drive shaft. What are these things called? Could this cause cavitation?

195.jpg
 
Impeller looks pretty good, should not cause cavitation. Mine look worse. If there is more than 1mm clearance between ring and impeller you will have cavitation or if you are sucking in air thru driveshaft thru hull carbon ring or around pump seal. For which way to turn, it's opposite way that impeller turns. In otherwords it would tighten in the direction driveshaft turns to produce forward thrust. It's got red locktite on it so sometimes difficult, applying heat helps. I had to place it on the ground and use two large wrenches and bounce on one with body weight.
 
Cannot edit post for some reason. Look at parts diagram for name of boots but those would not cause cavitation either. They just keep sand and debris out of impeller splines.
 
Impeller looks pretty good, should not cause cavitation. Mine look worse. If there is more than 1mm clearance between ring and impeller you will have cavitation or if you are sucking in air thru driveshaft thru hull carbon ring or around pump seal. For which way to turn, it's opposite way that impeller turns. In otherwords it would tighten in the direction driveshaft turns to produce forward thrust. It's got red locktite on it so sometimes difficult, applying heat helps. I had to place it on the ground and use two large wrenches and bounce on one with body weight.

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_JB.asp?Type=13&A=10&B=13

Referencing this diagram, are you referring to the pump seal as number 8? (Seal Carrier Ring) Also were you referring to number 14 with the hull carbon ring?
 
I also read on a previous thread that the stator vanes had to be perfectly smooth or this would create cavitation. When I bought the boat one of the jet pumps was replaced. It appears that the new one is made of 100% composite? And the other one has metal stators? The metal one weighs like 10lbs while the all composite one weighs like 3lbs. I did notice that once I got the impeller off the metal one does have several notches/gouges in it. Do you guys think this could be a problem? I will take a pic and post it up tomorrow.
 
To get the impeller off, heat it a little to break the loctite. I used a touch lightly on it - you want to heat it to around 150-170F, not melt the wear ring!

Remember when you're putting it on to put loctite back on those threads
 
To get the impeller off, heat it a little to break the loctite. I used a touch lightly on it - you want to heat it to around 150-170F, not melt the wear ring!

Remember when you're putting it on to put loctite back on those threads

Yea I got both impellers off no problem, I ended up using one of those tire irons that have 4 different sizes on it to get leverage in the vise. But what has me wondering is my jet pump. The one which I think is the original is made of metal and has gouges and nicks in it. I think that along with some knicks on the wear ring is whats causing the cavitation. I am going to take some pics of of it today and post them up. Let me know what you guys think.
 
Both part number you referr to are patr of the thru hull assembly, and a worn out carbon seal can allow air in, but then usually will leak water in when sittind idle. The pump seal I was referring to would be between the pump and pump support on the outside of hull.

My pump is made of bronze and it's pretty dinged up with 1/4 nicks and missing pieces and does not cavitates. I would think wearing to impeller clearance and air intrusion would cause the most cavitation.

A little history here would help. Has it always cavitated, started after sucking up debris or rocks, slowly gotten worse, etc.?
 
Both part number you referr to are patr of the thru hull assembly, and a worn out carbon seal can allow air in, but then usually will leak water in when sittind idle. The pump seal I was referring to would be between the pump and pump support on the outside of hull.

My pump is made of bronze and it's pretty dinged up with 1/4 nicks and missing pieces and does not cavitates. I would think wearing to impeller clearance and air intrusion would cause the most cavitation.

A little history here would help. Has it always cavitated, started after sucking up debris or rocks, slowly gotten worse, etc.?

Well I just bought the boat about a month ago and it has cavitated since I had it. I have a receipt from a dealer who installed a new jet pump and some other parts. Whenever I try and go from a stopped position the port side ALWAYS revs up real fast and I have to give the starboard full throttle to compensate for it. And whenever I do a 360, I can't pull out of it, I have to completely go from a stopped position. Even if I start out really slow and take both engines at the same speed the port side always breaks loose. But the port side is the side that has the new jet pump. The wear ring had some minor knicks in it but nothing major. I bought 2 new wear rings to replace. I am just trying to think what else it could be.
 
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