Hello from England...just bought a Seadoo Sportster Boat

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Hello Everyone,

I have just bought a 2003 Seadoo Sportster LE boat.

My first ever boat so really excited.......reading owners manual.....I am a bit worried about using the pipe pincher for flushing!

Dave.
 
Welcome to the forum Dave. Which engine does the 2003 LE have? What is you concern about flushing the engine?

Hi,

Thank you for your reply.

It has a rotax 947 2 stroke carburetor.

It say in the operators guide that I need to pinch the outlet hose between t fittings when flushing!!!

It also says use a hose pincher (not supplied) part number 529 032 500 on the hose between the transom and the t fitting

Any ideas?
 
I've never heard of pinching a line for flushing the engine. The only time that I know that you need to pinch a line is if you tow the boat you need to pinch the line from the pump to the engine. This is to prevent hydrolocking the engine.

Lou
 
I'll try to explain without causing confusion....

I use a pincher during winterization, on the lower block drain to force antifreeze through the block while I pour water into the top hose connected to the cylinder head, using a funnel. Actually, I installed a ball valve in the drain line. Also pinch the supply line from the jet pump during in water towing greater than a few mph, else engine combustion chambers may ingest water. I'm not aware of section in instruction manual advising to block engine drain during reverse flush while running engine on hose, but I run in deep fresh water so I don't make a habit of flushing but in salt or dirty sandy conditions I would.

I have a squirt bottle of seadoo 2-stroke oil I use for fogging directly into the two carburetors while engine is idling in the water.

It's important to fog engine before storage b/c the cylinder sleeves are cast iron and will rust due to water vapor in exhaust, I fog just before removing boat from water(on trailer in water is good) then restart and run engine at idle for a few seconds after removing boat from water(no cooling water flowing) to blow remaining water out of exhaust system.

I guess it would be sufficient to start boat for a few seconds after removing from water just to blow water out of exhaust, then stop and remove plugs and pour in a few table spoons of oil and turn motor over by hand or starter a few revolutions before reinstalling spark plugs.

I also have a plan to simply fully open oil pump by hand while idling engine but gaining access is difficult and I don't think I can pull on the cable to make it happen. So far, I just squirt oil into the carbs while idling in the water.

Maybe someone can find issue with my procedure.....
 
Hi,
Okay, yes, the manual is correct, if using the engine compartment flush port connector instead of the external flush port connector at top left of pump, you should pinch the hose or install a ball valve in hose to prevent loss of coolant out of pump flush port and force coolant through into reverse of normal path. In this case, I would shove a wine cork in the external flush port connector and watch carefully not to overheat and burn exhaust manifold or engine block.

Here is a link to cooling system diagram:

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/seadooforums/showmodel.asp?Type=18&make=seadoojb&a=146&b=1&Action=O
 
Additional suggestion to avoid overheating(insufficient cooling water flow) or water ingestion (excessive cooling water flow) during reverse direction flushing, adjust flush hose water pressure until water is just beginning to trickle from tell-tale port located just below rear grab handle. This way, exhaust manifold cooling jacket is full of water and most of air is forced out of exhaust manifold at highest position.
 
Thanks guys.

I think for now I will use the lower flush connection point as the whole pinching line thing seems a little odd to me!

Do you guys always carry:

Spare trailer wheel?

Fuel can with fuel on the boat?

Flares?

Spare battery for boat?

I have a trickle charger connected while the boat is in my garage.

Dave.
 
I want to mention, another reason for not running engine out of water (maybe a short period is okay) is because the carbon driveshaft seal will heat up from friction, and damage will occur to the tension bellows and/or carbon seal because there is no water to remove heat generated by friction and to reduce friction as water lubricates the carbon seal. Remember to grease your PTO zerk on the engine output shaft otherwise the splines will wear quickly, I grease mine according to the service manual and I use marine wheel bearing grease.

Spare Wheel - No I do not, mine are in good condition and I don't tow for long distances (My boat is on a lift in a boathouse). I would consider it if I made trips on rough roads, occasionally even potholes in boat ramps can damage a tire or road debris hazards.

Fuel can - Not required by law on the body of water I ski on, I put in sufficient fuel prior to leaving dock for the day.

Flares - Some places this is required, my lake I can swim across so just life jackets for everyone, a paddle in case of engine trouble, an anchor or two, and a fire extinguisher.

Spare battery - No, might consider it if cruising in the ocean offshore.

Trickle charger - Should be fine. However, I wouldn't charge the battery unless isolated from the MPEM/Rectifier/Regulator by turning off the battery main switch (this switch is under the engine hatch on passenger side) before charging because it's possible to damage these if the voltage is beyond a certain level. BTW, Don't jump start your boat from another boat if that boat is running, the voltage may be too high and can damage your MPEM computer or charging system.

That's all I can think of, for the moment....

Enjoy and be safe! ;)
 
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