2003 SeaDoo XP DI

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SeaDooCam

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Hello everyone.
I am new to forums. I thought I would give them a try before I send my jet ski in and pay an arm and a leg for it. Here is my story. I have a 2003 seadoo XP DI that I bought a mouth ago. When I got it was great. Little thing was a rocket. so two weekends ago I was out on it riding it like I stole it. 60 all day long. The guy I bought it from said it was just rebuilt and the cylinders were machined and had matching pistons. so after about an hour one day it just shut down. I couldn't figure it out. she started back up, a little sluggish trying to start. no warning lights or beeps. I was worried so I started for the boat ramp. It did it again about 5 minutes later. I also had lower power and would get up past 45. Hit a few good waves and she got full power again. ran full power but then I let off the throttle and it did the same thing low power. I get it in and found water to be in the box with the rectifier. and the modules that give spark. so I let it dry out for three days in the sun. It was reading 11.1 volts when running on the dash. so I decided that maybe enough waster got in to make it run like crap. so once it was dry I took it would that next weekend. Once again the same problems but it only took about 20 minutes. then the dash said warning and would not go over 4700 RPM this time. I am not sure what it is. any help would be great.
 
I would check a few things...
1. Where is the water coming from, plugs, driveshaft seal, exhaust leak?
2. What is your compression, could be seizing?
3. What oil are you running?
4. Old or new battery, 11.1V is not enough power for an injected ski.
5. Have all the fuel filters been changed?
 
Not sure exactly where the rectifier is located on an XP, but usually they are bolted to a bracket that holds the MPEM (ECM) and not in the rear electrical box. They are a sealed unit impervious to water.
The Rear electrical box usually holds the ignition coils and the starter solenoid.
If they are getting wet it could be a problem.
As above I would find out where the water is coming from.

Eleven volts is not good for your ski.
 
On the 03 XPDI the rectifier is bolted to its own bracket in the very front of the ski. MPEM is bolted to the side just rear of the motor.
 
Thanks for the fast input everyone. I will do what you guys are saying and get my battery tested if its week I will replace it. As for the water, the ski is not flooded/flooding, I believe it was just from hitting waves. The seal around the cargo bin is wore out and like paper thin. I found the water to be in the front right of the ski. It was in a sealed box that holds the spark plug modules and my guess is the starter solenoid. could someone tell me what the compression should be. and how long should the pressure hold?
Thanks,
Cameron
 
I would make sure all your electrical boxes have the rubber lid seal and grease it and all connections into the box with Dielectric tune-up grease.

Compression should be between 140-130 psi on a perfect DI ski. Make sure you hold the throttle wide open before and during cranking to shut off the fuel pump. The compression "pressure" is held by the gauge not the engine so I am nit sure what you are saking by, "how long should it hold pressure"?
 
I would make sure all your electrical boxes have the rubber lid seal and grease it and all connections into the box with Dielectric tune-up grease.

Compression should be between 140-130 psi on a perfect DI ski. Make sure you hold the throttle wide open before and during cranking to shut off the fuel pump. The compression "pressure" is held by the gauge not the engine so I am nit sure what you are saking by, "how long should it hold pressure"?

Thank you, i guess my question is, say I get up to 140 and let it set for an hour should the pressure still be 140 or is there a leak that happens no matter what that would be okay. so say if i came back an hour later and its at 120. should I worry. Or am i just worried about the instant pressure of 140 for that crank cycle.
 
No, you are not doing a leak down test, you are doing a compression test. It will be zero almost immediately if you didn't have a check valve in the gauge.
 
Alright, thank you. I will get the filters ordered, drain the oil and replace with True seadoo oil (just in case it is not told it was though), compression check, electrical box check, dielectric grease spark plug wires, and battery change. hopefully get it all done by the weekend and get back to everyone.
 
If you haven't done it yet I would do all the fuel filters too as you might save the $800 fuel pump. @jhjesse has the filter part numbers to buy at the local parts store.
 
If you take the fuel pump assembly out to change the filters clean the pump too. Like said above... could save you an 800$ fuel pump
 
does anyone have any good links as to how to clean them? I have never done anything like that before and would like to save an 800 pump but also not destroy it also trying to keep it clean.
 
Get a bucket and mix 50/50 gas and toluene. Run the pump for a bit through that mixture. KEEP THE SPARKS AND BATTERY AWAY.
 
Can anyone tell me where the fuel filters are? I'm trying to look on the shop manual but its not helping. are they in the pump or inline? should I add inline filters also?
 
Get a bucket and mix 50/50 gas and toluene. Run the pump for a bit through that mixture. KEEP THE SPARKS AND BATTERY AWAY.
so is toluene a solvent product that is something like paint thinner? Just want to make sure. I have never heard of it before.
 
There are two in-tank filters and one in line. You should replace all 3. Someone will chime in with the part numbers ... I don’t remember them. Yes toluene is like a paint thinner. I purchase it at Home Depot and it’s next to the paint thinner. Read the ingredients of the products and you will find it.
 
Fuel pump filters are Airtex FS220 & FS242.
The external filter you can find in the parts icon at the top of this page.
I recommend cutting the external filter off the fuel line and replacing it with a wix 33095 metal inline filter. The cost less than 10 bucks. A new OEM filter cost in excess of 70 bucks and you need special tools to replace.
 
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