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gsx limited battery post melting

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Ntd34gsx

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i have a 1997.5 gsx limited, the starter freezed up, so i removed the starter and took it apart found the bearing toasted replaced bearing put it all back together and installed tested all ok, i also decided to do the vts bypass relay wired it all up and all ok, i then decided to put a inline negative battery quick disconnect switch thing on it, tested out the water for a few seconds all ok, took it to the lake rode for about 20 mins noticed 12v low light on, so i put the ski away for the day, the next day i went to ride it and it wouldnt start kind of cranked then clicked after inspection found the negative post of the battery completely melted, i figured either i didnt tighten it correctly or it rattle loose some how and just kept sparking and melted. so i bought a new battery and installed hoped on and it wouldnt start kept trying to start it and nothing checked battery and it was melted again. so i got rid of the stupid negative cable disconnect switch but im scared to connect a new battery again. i just want to know if anybody has some input on this and what other test i can do before i hook up a new battery? i checked resistance from battery positive cable to battery negative cable and its .6mega ohms does that sound correct?
 
i have a 1997.5 gsx limited, the starter freezed up, so i removed the starter and took it apart found the bearing toasted replaced bearing put it all back together and installed tested all ok, i also decided to do the vts bypass relay wired it all up and all ok, i then decided to put a inline negative battery quick disconnect switch thing on it, tested out the water for a few seconds all ok, took it to the lake rode for about 20 mins noticed 12v low light on, so i put the ski away for the day, the next day i went to ride it and it wouldnt start kind of cranked then clicked after inspection found the negative post of the battery completely melted, i figured either i didnt tighten it correctly or it rattle loose some how and just kept sparking and melted. so i bought a new battery and installed hoped on and it wouldnt start kept trying to start it and nothing checked battery and it was melted again. so i got rid of the stupid negative cable disconnect switch but im scared to connect a new battery again. i just want to know if anybody has some input on this and what other test i can do before i hook up a new battery? i checked resistance from battery positive cable to battery negative cable and its .6mega ohms does that sound correct?

Connect the positive battery cable, then connect a 12v test light in series with the battery and negative battery cable, the test light should not light.

But, I can't imagine how an inline switch can cause this symptom you describe.
 
Do you live close to N. Broward park. I use to live in Pompano many years ago. I lived on N.E. 14th Terrace and right off of N.Federal Highway behind that park. Then we moved to Boca.
 
well im thinking it was the switch because it was just an old one laying around my shop off a bmw pdi and one of the post would swivel so i was thinking it might of been a loose connection internal but i would diff do that test with the test light thanks for the input.

Connect the positive battery cable, then connect a 12v test light in series with the battery and negative battery cable, the test light should not light.

But, I can't imagine how an inline switch can cause this symptom you describe.
 
Do you live close to N. Broward park. I use to live in Pompano many years ago. I lived on N.E. 14th Terrace and right off of N.Federal Highway behind that park. Then we moved to Boca.

yea well i live on sample and military right on crystal lake. but i work at vista bmw right on federal across from the little airport
 
i know the .6 mega ohms is coming from the mpem when i disconnect the connector of rear harness to the mpem the meter goes to ofl or open
 
i know the .6 mega ohms is coming from the mpem when i disconnect the connector of rear harness to the mpem the meter goes to ofl or open

I agree this sounds like an open circuit, which is what you'd expect under normal conditions. Except the conditions are abnormal from the perspective the circuit doesn't have 12v on it during the test.

I have a test light, so bang-boom done in a few seconds without breaking a sweat. I bought this thing from Harbor Freight, their deluxe model and it's well made IMO, for ~$4.99, I think it was.
 
im gonna grab my test light from work tomorrow and test it when i get home i will let you know thanks again

I agree this sounds like an open circuit, which is what you'd expect under normal conditions. Except the conditions are abnormal from the perspective the circuit doesn't have 12v on it during the test.

I have a test light, so bang-boom done in a few seconds without breaking a sweat. I bought this thing from Harbor Freight, their deluxe model and it's well made IMO, for ~$4.99, I think it was.
 
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