Paul Bretz
Active Member
It does look like a nu jet. Thanks for the info matt
RESTO Gray Ghost
- Thread starter DanSquires
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Paul Bretz
Active Member
I wonder if the cavitation issue was either the pitch of the leading edge or the lack of sealing from pump to pump shoe. Mine only had a o-ring that went around circumference of pump. Not between pump and shoe. I may use o-ring and a neoprene seal
DanSquires
Well-Known Member
Is the ghost MPEM shot or are you just experimenting?
No it's fine but I wanted to use the 98GSX MPEM and throttle cable to eliminate the TPS. Now I'm seeing it affects other things. I was going to swap to the 98GSX wiring. I
Sorry to muck up your thread with my confusion Dan. The 97.5 wiring DOES work on the 98 MPEM. The random beeps are a low fuel warning and the pegged VTS gauge is just something mine does half the time. I drilled the 2 rivets in front of the seat and took out the amplifier and the TPS and carb solenoid came out with it.
DanSquires
Well-Known Member
I have yet to even dig that far into the ski to trace the TPS, but if it's only controlling the carb solenoid, then cool, it's going away since the carbs get changed out anyways
Are you still running the reverse cooling? I think I'm going to switch that around to get the cool water to the head first.. probably did that for more EPA junk.
Paul Bretz
Active Member
Wasnt the tps there to retard couple degrees of timing at certain rpm?
Paul Bretz
Active Member
Or at certain throttle position?
DanSquires
Well-Known Member
On the dual coil skis, yea, for sure. I honestly don't have the answer to that question for the 97.5.
It's probably controlling timing also.
Yes I'm running the reverse cooling but I have not started tuning yet just break in putting around.
Yes I'm running the reverse cooling but I have not started tuning yet just break in putting around.
Paul Bretz
Active Member
So general concensus- use 98 mpem and throttle cable, whatever harness and newer carbs?
I could have adjusted the TPS and left it alone.
Yes the carbs must be upgraded.
Yes the carbs must be upgraded.
DanSquires
Well-Known Member
I've been collecting parts and doing a bit of work lately on this ski. I've managed to pick up a UMI w/ RXX steering cable, an R&D exhaust cone, R&D intake, the ADA head with (currently) 50cc domes, and a few other little things.
The top end has been sent off to Fullbore, I'm going to have him go ahead with big Wossner's and just his mild "stage 1" port work.
I also finished off the crank last night, so i'm ready to reassemble a bottom end and see what happens. I got the runout as close as I could, when it finally measured out to .0002ish PTO, .0000 on both center bearings, and .0003ish on the mag I was happy. That's just where it wanted to settle.
Pic, because why not. It's what I've got handy at the moment.
The top end has been sent off to Fullbore, I'm going to have him go ahead with big Wossner's and just his mild "stage 1" port work.
I also finished off the crank last night, so i'm ready to reassemble a bottom end and see what happens. I got the runout as close as I could, when it finally measured out to .0002ish PTO, .0000 on both center bearings, and .0003ish on the mag I was happy. That's just where it wanted to settle.
Pic, because why not. It's what I've got handy at the moment.
DanSquires
Well-Known Member
I've never had issues, but then again I haven't seen everything...
Figured I'd take a pic before assembly
Man that looks great!
DanSquires
Well-Known Member
Thanks! I laid it in the case and measured the final runout, zeroes on every bearing and both ends. Pretty happy about that
I am not sure on the red seals but the WSM ones use a little different rubber on the black ones. It feels a little more plasticy if that makes sense. I still use them on stock rebuilds but for anything more high performance I like the oem ones better. As you I haven’t had a WSM fail but I have seen plenty of the 25+ year old oem ones still holding pressure.
So what are you using to rebuild cranks? You have all the spacers, plates and stuff? I have always wanted to try it but only did outer bearings.
So what are you using to rebuild cranks? You have all the spacers, plates and stuff? I have always wanted to try it but only did outer bearings.
DanSquires
Well-Known Member
First big tool was a 50 ton press.. a small 20 ton would not cut it. It CAN take them apart, but totally not safe.
I had to make a few little custom tools to disassemble and build them, but nothing major. A press plate to fit in the crank webs to separate, and spacers to properly space the center webs. A couple of pipes cut to length to set the two outermost bearings. And I made a stand to measure the runout..
Other than that, just a lot of measuring, and dinging with a brass hammer.
DanSquires
Well-Known Member
LOL
I wish these were single cylinder cranks, that would be pud work. High is high, and low is low. On the two cylinder, low can be high and high can be sideways.
DanSquires
Well-Known Member
Oh I know, I'm just easily offended and not at all a sarcastic jerkbag.
That 97 is gorgeous, it would be hard to replicate one that nice.
Tom Cronin has a pretty nice gray ski in St Louis that needs built, if you're still looking
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