Given a 2 stroke Sea Doo. Have tons of questions

[WhereDidAllTheUsernamesGo]

1. What model SeaDoo is this?
2. What are some common problems for this SeaDoo?
3. What do the switches and buttons below the handlebars and in front of the seat do?
4. How can I tell if oil injection works?
5. How do I replace the battery?
6. Where can I find an owner's manual?
Pictures of SeaDoo: http://imgur.com/a/jxSNO

 

[LouDoo]

Hi and welcome to the Seadoo forum. I believe you have a 1988 (or so) SP. Honestly it looks pretty rough. I think before you do any thing else check and make sure the engine and or pump is not seized. Remove the spark plugs and see if you can turn the motor over by hand by turning the PTO (the little flywheel type thing and the rear of the engine). Try that and then post back. Meanwhile lets see if we can get or vintage ski guy in on this. [MENTION=49703]RodInEscondido[/MENTION]

Lou

 

[WhereDidAllTheUsernamesGo]

Hi and welcome to the Seadoo forum. I believe you have a 1988 (or so) SP. Honestly it looks pretty rough. I think before you do any thing else check and make sure the engine and or pump is not seized. Remove the spark plugs and see if you can turn the motor over by hand by turning the PTO (the little flywheel type thing and the rear of the engine). Try that and then post back. Meanwhile lets see if we can get or vintage ski guy in on this. [MENTION=49703]RodInEscondido[/MENTION]

Lou

It has been sitting since 01 and those pics were just off the trailer. I washed it and it cleaned up nicely. It does turnover.

 

[racerxxx]

It's an 90 SP, the 88 was the only year with the flip up seat.

The T is the choke, pull it out to choke teh engine to start it.

The push pin on teh left is for a safety lanyard so when you get bucked off it will shut off.

The push button with the domed rubber boot (to the right of the lanyard one)

The knob is the fuel selector switch. On off Reserve.


You have quite a task ahead of you, but they're wicked fun. That was my first ride (actually an 89 with a 90 blue hood), way back in the early 90's.

 

[RodInEscondido]

Put together a great dissertation, and get server error preventing my post

 

[RodInEscondido]

trying again still get server error ... try this one little section at a time ...

Lets see if we got this right this time: vintage guy with a few old SeaDoos ... ya, that's it.

You have a good start: basic cleanup to see what you have and checks that will not cost a bunch of cash.

Battery is under the gray box in front of the engine, electronics stuff in the top of the box over the battery. Check for corrosion in the electronics.

I would guess it was left with fuel and oil in it. Drain it all. I recommend pulling the oil/fuel tanks out for cleaning; one of the ones I started with had some wicked sticky crap in the bottom of the fuel tank along with the check valve/filters that were supposed to be at the ends of the in-tank fuel pickup lines which had totally rotted off. Check operation of the in-tank filter/check-valve, I have seen them frozen open and closed ... should be hear the little ball rattle when shaken.

Go through the entire fuel system. Unless the fuel lines have been replaced, a 25 foot spool of automotive fuel line is pretty cheap. All of the older skis I have dug into, although looking good, the fuel line was vary hard and loose/cracked at the various connections. Fuel selector is a known problem, clean or better yet replace it. Clean out the fuel filter/water separator, insure the o-ring is in place ... check for leakage later. Recommended to insert an additional fuel filter just before carb, less than $5 for standard G2 auto filter is cheap insurance.

Clean and check carb; a can of carb cleaner "MAY" do it initially ... big subject, lotta threads regarding carbs here.

 

[RodInEscondido]

yay, first segment went ok ... try second segment ... sound drum roll .....


Fuel pump is mounted on hull on carb side. Pulse line going to lower side of engine is what operates it, replace the line.

Replace oil line and oil filter. Replace oil lines from oil pump to rotary valve cover (RV), 3/32 fuel line can be found where small engine repair/sale is done (lawnmower, leaf blower).

For an initial run test, mix up a 40:1 premix in a temporary fuel container and connect to fuel pump input. You can safely run out of water for 30 seconds or so, not a lot longer than that. If you have already replaced the oil lines and bled the oil system you probably will still have a couple bubbles in the small oil feed lines; hold open the control arm on the fuel pump and you should see the bubbles move to show initial oil pump operation.

Enough for a start.

Service manual is available either here in premium section or other places on line.

 

[RodInEscondido]

Yay!!! divide and conquer ... got it all in

 

[LouDoo]

Thanks Rod, great posts

Vintage Lou

 

[WhereDidAllTheUsernamesGo]

trying again still get server error ... try this one little section at a time ...

Lets see if we got this right this time: vintage guy with a few old SeaDoos ... ya, that's it.

You have a good start: basic cleanup to see what you have and checks that will not cost a bunch of cash.

Battery is under the gray box in front of the engine, electronics stuff in the top of the box over the battery. Check for corrosion in the electronics.

I would guess it was left with fuel and oil in it. Drain it all. I recommend pulling the oil/fuel tanks out for cleaning; one of the ones I started with had some wicked sticky crap in the bottom of the fuel tank along with the check valve/filters that were supposed to be at the ends of the in-tank fuel pickup lines which had totally rotted off. Check operation of the in-tank filter/check-valve, I have seen them frozen open and closed ... should be hear the little ball rattle when shaken.

Go through the entire fuel system. Unless the fuel lines have been replaced, a 25 foot spool of automotive fuel line is pretty cheap. All of the older skis I have dug into, although looking good, the fuel line was vary hard and loose/cracked at the various connections. Fuel selector is a known problem, clean or better yet replace it. Clean out the fuel filter/water separator, insure the o-ring is in place ... check for leakage later. Recommended to insert an additional fuel filter just before carb, less than $5 for standard G2 auto filter is cheap insurance.

Clean and check carb; a can of carb cleaner "MAY" do it initially ... big subject, lotta threads regarding carbs here.

I think my the ends of my fuel pickup lines are clogged. Where can I find new ones?

 

[RodInEscondido]

If we are speaking of the in-tank pickups just use the standard 1/4 inch fuel line, you sill see what is needed when you pull the pickup stuff out of the fuel tank. Your decision if you want to use the in-tank filter/check-valve; I have not figured it out exactly, why, but the check-valve prevents back-flow into the tank. For me, I have just made a diagnol cut at the bottom and depended on filtration in the pre-filter/water-separator and the additional G2 fuel filter to clean up the fuel before it gets to the carb.

Hope I help more than confuse.