gel coat repair for minor damage ?

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Spimothy Leary

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can this be addressed w/o a major expense ?

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this damage was done over the weekend when the ski was anchored in choppy conditions and another ski came loose and banged into it a few times before they could get out there to stop it. (the danger of taking one last ride before selling the ski.. eh ?)

Its on a 08 rxtx that I was planning on picking up wednesday.

I really haven't had to deal with damage like this on a ski I want to keep, usually its on an old beat up 2 stroke that I was taking to the landfill anyway, but this ski was 9/10 all around, but now.. its like a 6....

seller is willing to take a bit of a hit on the price due to new development, we're negiotiating, but.... it circles back to the question, I can't cover this with a sticker...

How does this get fixed ?
 
http://www.gelcoat.ca/index.php?p=catalog&parent=108&pg=1

You can repair it yourself in an afternoon. An electric buffer helps to polish the repairs out and saves on the elbow grease. Most people will never notice the repairs if you take your time and do a good job, you may still be able to detect the repairs if you look really close up and know what you're looking for. I had to fix a silver-dollar sized chip on the upper forward hull of my '06 RXT when I bought it used... I know where the repair is, but it's very hard to see.

Or you can just take it to most any boat shop and they should be able to repair it for you at a much higher cost... might be worth getting estimates and then using the estimate to negotiate the new final price.

Regards!

- Michael
 
My understanding was that it was the seller who was taking it out 1 last time when this incident occurred, not the potential buyer. :-\

- Michael

correct, the potential seller decided on one last ride since our meet up was the following week.

I haven't seen it in person yet, but it was a huge disappointment to find out monday morning that there was a development where the overall condition went from great to below average. I'm going there in 24 hours so we'll see how it pans out.
 
correct, the potential seller decided on one last ride since our meet up was the following week.

I haven't seen it in person yet, but it was a huge disappointment to find out monday morning that there was a development where the overall condition went from great to below average. I'm going there in 24 hours so we'll see how it pans out.

Sounds like renegotiations are in order.


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you can fix to blend it pretty good, but those are pretty big. I beat you spend like $100 in supplies plus your time doing it. I am sure this is few more hundred at a dealer.
 
well, I bought it !

I drove 7 hours round trip, took a test ride, hated it (see below), returned to the ramp and paid him his full (reduced) asking price. Seller was kind enough to throw in a gps unit as a stocking stuffer...

The actual damage isn't as bad as I thought from the pic's they are closer to nickle or quarter sized chunks, not the half/silver dollar sized that I originally thought from the pic's (closeups)

I'll take it to my newly found gelcoat guy for an estimate early next week to see how his price differs from my DIY costs. I haven't discounted the idea of a well placed sticker as well, i've only had the ski for about 18 hours so....

I'll use the weekend to figure how the hell to maneuver this big horse of a ski (Clydesdale) it actually runs great under throttle and turns great. But with the OPAS delete its like driving a barge at low speeds.... I need to learn how to adjust to that, its completely non-responsive at low speeds but I think its more of a driver situation and learning how to handle it.
 
Congrats on the purchase. I'm sure someone has the OPAS if you want them as many take them off.


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Congrats on the purchase. I'm sure someone has the OPAS if you want them as many take them off.


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You were on my list of people to contact about OPAS actually, I was just about to text you....

Do you have it on your TX ?

I've been on several models for rides in the past but none with OPAS delete, I had no idea how much of a difference it made... for example the 04 gtx I had for a couple months, with OPAS, maneuvered around the docks and in the 3-8 mph speed just fine, but this tank literally just keeps going in a straight line when I move the steering cable... and its not the steering...

if i'm going 25, she turns just as expected...

I can certainly see why SD engineers added OPAS when they developed the hulls. Whats bugging me is why people are so adamant about removing it, must be a high speed/cross chop thing...I've read about riders getting tossed due to this..

I need to get educated, I'm under the assumption that as an experienced rider that I will be fine without it once I learn some of the tricks to low speed maneuvering, but i'm sure it was painful to watch me try to maneuver to the dock to tie off, It was fine popping it on the trailer but not trying to slip up to the dock.

I'm taking tomorrow off and will ride tomorrow/saturday to get some seat time on this thing, my first priority will be to spend about 15 minutes docking/undocking over and over until I get more comfortable with this.
 
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Congrats! My '06 RXT has the OPAS system on it but it really doesn't do all that much for me. But I've had an 18 1/2 foot long jet boat for like 20 years now so I was already used to how to steer a jet propelled watercraft at all speeds (as well as in reverse... with properly timed forward/reverse inputs you can parallel park at the docks which surprises most people).

Check Ebay for used take-off OPAS parts. You can learn to steer with thrust alone though in short order.

Hey, I'm assuming it's a Supercharged model have you verified the condition of the SC do you know if it's working properly? Your original question was only about the gelcoat damage... but a properly functioning Supercharger is pretty important and VERY expensive if it's failed! Do you know how many hours are on it and if it's ever been rebuilt?

To check that it operates, pull the air intake hose off the end of the SC and reach in with your fingers (engine not running, obviously!) and see if you can easily turn the air wheel in there... if it's really hard to turn it, it's working. If it turns easily though... let's just not go there. :-\

Also make a point to install an automatic (mechanical float controlled) electric bilge pump in your hull over the winter! Wire it to be in the "automatic" mode all the time, plump the water line out 1 side under your rear grab handle so you can see it in your rear-view mirror if it ever starts pouring water out the side. These things can sure save you a LOT of grief if it ever springs a bad leak inside the hull... there's almost always someone posting on here about their SeaDoo PWC having sunk while tied to a dock (sometimes it's as simple as forgetting to put the drain plugs in before launching... tie it up to a dock go in to eat lunch and come back out to find the machine well and sunk!).

Anyway, congrats and get a full pic of it to post soon!

- Michael
 
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yes,
SC was rebuilt by jerry at GH about 60 hours ago, so I have some time

Bilge was already installed when the Stage 1 kit went in, new intercooler and opas delete. The bilge pisser is in the rear but that's ok with me, i'm used to checking the pisser on a regular basis while riding.

I truly am clueless about SC's in general, except for reading but I'll get up to speed soon enough.

I'll likely complete the fix or just cover up the minor damage, probably recover the seat as well.

To be honest, the 08 RXTX wasn't my first choice, I was shopping for a GPR conversion when I sumbled across this. Out of the 08 models I would have preferred a RXPX because i'm used to handling smaller more nimble hulls and right now this thing feels like a tank.

Hopefully after some seat time i'll make the adjustments and feel more comfortable with it, if not I can always pass it along to someone who rides double more than I do (almost never)

In the meantime, at least I can ride !!!
 
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Oh once you get used to this tank, you'll find it's an Abrams M1A1! The Cadillac of PWC's. Powerful sporty and roomy all in 1. Much more comfortable if you have a passenger on than the RXP's... the extra seat area really will win you over in no time flat.

And frankly I'm almost always riding alone, too. The gals in Texas don't like us men in Texas very much... it's a terribly difficult singles scene I swear. :-(

Anyways I think you'll start to love the RXT platform in no time flat. But hey, do check your SC anyways just for grins pull the air intake tube off reach in there and make sure you can't spin that SC air wheel (aka impeller). It's just a good habit to check it every now and then. Also check for any oil in the air tube while you have it off the SC intake.

SC's are a BLAST when they're working right and a PITA when they aren't! LOL!

- Michael
 
well, quick update....
To this point i've ignored the minor Gelcoat issues and just wanted to get some more seat time in this before I decided what I was going to do.... I was pissed off enough over low speed handling issues that I actually made a CL add just to see if I could get a decent offer (just two lowballers and one guy that thought it was a 2 stroke) I pulled the listing this morning since I'm still on the fence as far as what to do long term.

RE: the platform itself, i'm still terribly disappointed in its low speed handling but mainly its because I was used to my GPr and my Honda R12 that turned on a friggen dime, and the OPAS delete magnify's that problem, just really need to adjust my expectations and spend some more time in the seat getting used to it. I went out Thursday with a buddy and when he spun off to do our typical mangrove runs I stayed in the channel because i'm not yet comfortable with hard turning on this and didn't' feel like having my eye poked out.

So anyway... Had it out twice last week and it took on some water, enough that the bilge kicked in twice, thought maybe it was water that came in over the bow but at this point i've come to the conclusion that I can't ignore the possibility that the carbon seal (8 yrs old, 182 hours) isn't having some issues so for $100 in parts it made sense to just order a new one, I also ordered two new bearings for the SC and figure i'll have that addressed while i'm at it.

FWIW, LB Motorsports in Orlando was recommended and Rob was excellent to deal with, very informative, I will not hesitate to use him again for this or other parts needs.

Also dropped off the seats in Bradenton Sunday for re-covering with PPI, design is still in the works, just trying to clean up the overall appearance and I hated the original seat cover's design & colors. (aftermarket copper colored vinyl was distracting IMO)

Is there anything else that I might be overlooking while i'm at it besides a routine inspection ?
Just figured while its out of commission for 10 days waiting on new seats I can address any mechanical concerns.
 
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Interesting... for improved low speed handling, put a performance intake grate in (either RIVA or an R&D Aquavein; I went with the R&D Aquavein and mine went to handling like it's on rails at ANY speed!). Also put yourself a 1 1/2 (R&D) to 2 (RIVA) degree wedge in the pump (makes it lean into turns a lot better, feels more like a race car or my big jet boat once I added the R&D 1 1/2 degree wedge to my '06 RXT). Even if you have adjustable power trim the wedge still improves turns and it's not expensive nor difficult to install. Finally, fill in those blasted ride plate bolt hole recess areas in the bottom of the ride plate! They're a drag.

Water intrusion can either be coming from the carbon seal (kinda doubt that, unless it's been run dry on the trailer frequently and for longer than recommended periods of time; mine's an '06 RXT w/original Carbon Seal still and almost 100 hrs), a leaking hose somewhere, or the OPAS block-offs may not be sealed correctly. Also as I've mentioned before, the forward intake grate bolt goes clean thru to the inside of the hull if that bolt has come loose and fallen out the hull will be constantly taking on water... get under the hull and check the intake grate (and replace with a performance grate as soon as you can anyways, if it still has the original stock grate in it!).

Always use blue thread-lock when re-installing those bolts (or any bolts that don't have lock washers and thread into metal).

An automatic electric bilge pump sure pays off when it alerts you to a water issue by dumping water out over the side of the hull doesn't it? Otherwise you may have never known. Mine has never once activated except when I filled the hull up partially on the trailer in my yard to make sure it would come on automatically and pump water out. ps. It probably takes a bit of water before the electric bilge float kicks it on, and that much water is going to weigh down the hull and make the machine sloppy feeling at slow speeds also so... the excess weight could be partly responsible for your poor handling issues as well, it's like having a 2nd rider on board without the 2nd rider!

I hope you bought more than just the SC main bearings, if you change those you will need the seal as well cause that'll go to leaking oil! I don't quite understand why you bought just the main bearings though, cause if those actually need (or are due) replacing then the rest of the parts probably need to be replaced as well (clutch washers, needle bearings, that seal, spring washers at a minimum). Did you check to see if the supercharger is functioning?

Oh, also check the wear ring in the pump... the gap between impeller blades and wear ring should be barely enough to slip a single piece of paper between! The wear ring is a cheap and easy item to replace yourself if it needs a fresh one.

Regards keep us posted and get some pics of that beast won't ya? Remember you bought it used and with more than a few hours on it already, I'm not surprised it has a few issues and could stand a few upgrades to get it up to par with what you expect!

- Michael
 
most if not all mechanical issues have been resolved...

finally moving on to cosmetic's....

first on the list was the seat cover, I hated the old ones...
(we're doing a cruiser type setup), lots of stitching.

here's the mockup on the new seat cover... too much ?


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Hey whatever floats your boat! It's your boat after all. :p

So are you satisfied with the machine's performance now that the mechanical issues have been resolved? Did you put the OPAS system back on?

- Michael
 
Michael, I guess i'll elaborate quickly on the mechanical side, it was significantly more than just the seal.

Replaced: Motor mounts (now Rhaas),Carbon Seal, boot, PTO Bearing,, Driveshaft, SC bearings as a precaution (not due for a rebuild yet) Inter cooler was questionable but didn't leak so it was left alone, greased the pump, changed the oil and a couple of seals.

OPAS still off, it will stay off for now.

Performance over 20 is just fine, under 20 it's a turd. I decided I don't go under 20 that often and i'll adjust over time. After maybe a dozen more hours of seat time (this weekend!) I will make more decisions: either I will get used to it, or go with one of the following, steering nozzle, sponsons, opas, for sale sign.

I keep reminding myself that my grandpa's caddy was comfortable but also very difficult to park and you needed a 6 lane road to turn around :)

Yes, I'm riding a grandpa ski.
 
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It sounds to me like you aren't using enough thrust (ie. throttle) to turn it at slower speeds. Without OPAS paddles, all you have to turn at slow speeds is thrust and you need to use it. Turning the steering while holding the same amount of throttle won't get you turning around very fast, you have to both turn the steering AND give it more throttle at the same time and then it becomes snappy and does what you want.

I have never felt that my RXT was slow to turn or sloppy to handle at slower speeds... but, I grew up with a full sized jet boat that exclusively uses thrust for turning so I'm very used to handling a watercraft by thrust alone. The bigger the hull, the more thrust you must use to effect a turn.

- Michael
 
Are you missing the sponsons as well? There's nothing really wrong with the OEM sponsons they work perfectly well for carving up the water you'd only see a slight speed increase with aftermarket sponsons (or removing them completely).

I still say you'd like an aftermarket performance intake grate (if it still has the OEM intake grate)... either an R&D Aquavein or a RIVA one will make it handle like it's on rails! And a pump wedge (R&D or RIVA either one) makes these machines bank into turns much better (my full sized jet boat and my RXT each have upgraded performance intake grates and pump wedges, they both handle great as such!). OPAS paddles only help if the driver doesn't know how to use thrust to manage turns properly.

- Michael
 
sorry, was away for 10 days,
will take your advice under consideration, I do think that 60% of the issue is user error, maybe 40% mechanical limitations.

I've owned 7 ski's for personal use and ALL of them except my first have been small, nimble, quick hulls, so this is my first barge.

I'm certainly used to using thrust but i'm used to using it on ski's that respond much more aggressively with less, so perhaps i'm just baby'ing it too much since i'm expecting to be able to just blip it up to 4-5K rpm's and toss the rear end around like its nothing. (snappy) Right now i'm not snappy at all and I can't seem to find that sweet spot of throttle/weight/balance to get the snap, although admittedly I have spent more time bitching about it than actually experimenting to get the sweet spot.

I'll continue to experiment with this before I start making mods, hadn't considered the grate, but I was looking into longer nozzle, lowering stock sponson's, (re-drill) or replace the sponson's with riva pro's.

It "should" have the 2 degree wedge and the top loader grate installed if the PO put in the full Riva kit but I haven't verified that yet, I had bigger fish to fry at the time.

your input is appreciated !
 
If you lower the sponson's you're going to increase drag... do keep in mind this is a longer heavier machine, even with it's awesome horsepower it's going to perform differently than smaller lighter 2-strokes of the past you may have ridden.

ps. I have ridden my sister's 2-seater Kawasaki Jetski 2-stroke and though yes it was nimble it was a Toyota to my RXT Supercharged Cadillac!

- Michael
 
quick update.

Kind of ignored my handling issues for a bit while I focused on other projects but I'm back on track and ready to throw some money at this.

1) Ordered the speedfreaks steering control arm mod, its on its way, supposed to increase the degree radius on turns.

2) Ordered an 83 ring for the reduction nozzle (81 presently installed) to push a little more power through

3) About to order a set of 2012 X series sponsons (with the little winglet on the side) to see if I notice a difference. I know people that have put them on their RXP's, but I haven't found anybody that tried it on a RXT, so I might be a bit of a guinea pig on that idea.

I'm not really experiencing any severe washout (actually I don't mind minimum washout because i'm familiar with the tendencies ) on high speed turns and i'm hoping it won't hook too hard at the end of the turn, might take some getting used to the hook so I'll experiment with them on open water a bit before I venture out on a technical ride like the narrow river twisty runs that i'm so fond of.

4) Next on the list would be an extended steering nozzle, and/or just giving up on solving the handling problems and sell this dam thing and go back to a 2 seater.

Am I on the right track or just pissing money away.
 
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As to #4, why not re-install the OPAS to try that? The 08 is probably top of the list for years that didn't have issues - even this 08 had some tunnel issues on certain
production runs and possible motor mount issue (that you have already taken care of) but pretty much a very good year.

I am puzzled by the consistent reference to steering at 20 or less. Obviously it bothers you. You may never be happy.
 
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