fuel tank float fix and info center repair

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.

bennlemire

New Member
I know there has been a lot of fuel systems affected by the ethanol in the gas corroding the sending units and that probably had a hand in my floats sinking too,,,

Just bought an older 96 GTX and the info gauge was "burnt" as the polarized film was totally baked and made it unreadable. I cut the display apart and cleaned all the goo off it and now am looking for a new slice of polarizing film,, I am going to try a window tinting place as it seems that stuff can get expensive as far as I saw. For now, I can read it with a good pair of polarized sunglasses.
Then I tackled the low, out of fuel,big red warning light that has been driving me crazy..,,and found that the float had sank... I am not sure how anyone else attacked this problem but I sure don't want to spend more than a hundred bucks on a new one so I can end up fixing that one too in a couple years.....SO..
I took the float out and jabbed it full of those small round toothpicks and now it floats again... I just did this yesterday so I am not sure if this is a long time fix but what the heck,, it was already broken.
Now to work on my 94...I bought this GTX off the showroom floor WAY back when and i've had it for 17 years now,, Man,, It's nearly an Antique!..
I bought a new baffle for that one(it died about 3 years after I bought it) and boy it was a tough one to get that out. but that only lasted a couple seasons and that one tanked too,, so I have had to live without a gas gauge on all my skis for so long,, It will be such a great change of pace to actually have any clue at all about gas levels.
 
I have the same 96 GTX in green and also had the same problem w/ the gauge.

I would take the toothpicks out NOW!!!!!!

I fixed it the hard way but here is the easier way.
1. open center glove box, unscrew the 4 corner screws(might only undo part way), then pop out the black plastic rivets & lift everything out
2. reach in and undo clamp around filler neck at the tank. (you may have undo the 4 hoses first, make a diagrams so you know where they go back.)
3. remove the dip tube and buy the NEW kind of float. it's all plastic. reinstall and you are set to go.

*****Important - if you have all the gray fuel lines still Replace them ASAP with black 1/4 inch auto lines (22 feet and about 20 clamps), clean the fuel selector, carb filters, and replace the in-line filter if you have one. Due to the new gas the inside of the line will be eaten away and green goo forms causing a lean fuel condition which can burn the piston***********

Do a search of gray fuel line if necessary to learn what expect.

Repost your findings for more help if needed....

Tim
 
The float in the picture at parkers, looks slightly different,, The shape look right but the magnets are not the same,, is this just a new design?,, are they all pretty much the same?
As for the toothpick thing,, heck,, it was worth a try,,, They are pushed all the way in so you can't see any of the wood ends so I really doubt that anything more than microscopic particles would get into the gas,, heck,, there's worse debris in "fresh" gas from the station... I didn't know you could get just a float and didn't want to get dinged for an entire baffle.,, I just wanted to see if it would work, ("there's more than one way to skin the cat"),, so thy say,,. Since they re designed the float I will just order a new one.,, I just need to do it while the ski is still new to me,, otherwise I have a tendency to get complacent.
Cheers
ben
 
The float is the newer style, it works fine in older ski's. I put the new style in both of my SeaDoo's. You can get them other places, included your dealer, I sent you the link to parkeryamaha.com because they are closer to you.

Lou
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top