1997 GTX Info Center Screen Never Turning off.

[cops13579o]

I purchased a 1997 sea doo GTX and was told the screen does not work and it doesn't but the weird thing is that the screen turns on with every part of it lit up like it's just turning on when everything is plugged in like it should but it doesn't turn off and will stay like this until the battery drains dead, no matter if the key is connected or not. I was wondering if anyone has had this issue or has a solution I could try before I try a new screen because I feel like the screen is not the real issue here.

 

[artr]

I remember someone posted a spec on the LCD controller chip used in the infocenter display. It is a microcomputer controlled display driver and can be commanded to turn on all display segments and then commanded to turn them off. That is probably the mechanism at work when the system is normally activated. That microcomputer is probably separate from the MPEM and internal to the infocenter. It sound like there is a problem internal to the infocenter that is causing it to be stuck at the point of turning on all display segments and LEDs and not letting it get farther in its normal sequence. There is a very limited interface in between the MPEM and infocenter, power, ground and a gray wire that is pulsed for engine RPM. Those can be looked at and if they appear to show normal signals then I would guess the problem is internal to the infocenter.

 

[cops13579o]

Do you recommend trying to take it apart and running some tests? There is nothing to loose I suppose.

 

[artr]

I suppose it wouldn't hurt if you are careful. I took my 96 GTX infocenter apart to replace the polarizer film on the display screen. There are a number of youtube videos on how to open it up and do that. I cut the metal ring that holds the front cover on but have seen videos that pry up that metal ring from the back edge which is better for reassembly. Inside there are 2 printed circuit boards, one for the LCD display and controller chip and the other for the rest of the electronics. You can separate those 2 boards and clean the edge connectors. You can also check for corrosion that may be shorting things out and possible cold solder joints where things are not connected as they should be or observe a part that is blown and needs replacement. It would require more information and equipment to actually trace if some of the ICs are damaged internally.

 

[cops13579o]

I'll give that a try tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

 

[cops13579o]

It ended up cleaning up nice but now the screen doesn’t turn on at all.

 

[artr]

Did you carefully inspect the board for cold solder joints? If your not sure how to do that google "cold solder joint pictures" and look at some pictures and videos on how to identify them and fix them if you suspect one. Check the connectors where the 2 boards mate and connectors for the power wire (red-purple stripe) and ground (black-red stripe) for cold joints were the connector pins go through the board and are soldered on the other side. You can check with a voltmeter that power is coming into the board on those wires. You can also visually check a lot of the electronic parts for similar issues on the solder joints. I stress that because when you took it apart and reassembled it something changed and maybe it was a questionable solder joint, especially on the connector where you separated the boards and cleaned.
When you say it cleaned up nice does that mean you found a lot of moisture and corrosion inside when you opened it?

 

[cops13579o]

Yes there was a large amount of crusty white salty material from what looked like salt water and it was connecting solder joints.

 

[artr]

With that amount of moisture and salt it's probably that the electronics have been damaged. I would do the checks for damaged solder connections because that's something that is easy to fix. If that doesn't work then I would buy a replacement gauge.