Fuel line diagram 97 Seadoo Xp

[Andross06]

Hello there,

I know i might not know a whole lot but I'm thinking the person I bought this ski from didn't know what the heck he was doing. The diagram and what I actually see on the ski for the fuel lines are completely different.

I am still in the process of replacing fuel lines and thinking about replacing fuel selector valve and that fuel filter. Trying to figure why I'm getting no fuel to the engine. So far no green goo in the lines, except a little from the pulse fuel line.

Also when I checked one carb (while it was installed) the kit that was used on this still looked pretty good. I have only found one internal filter though, isn't there supposed to be two filters?

Please help.



The pictures I have posted show a diagram and fuel G2 Fram fuel filter. Where does that go? Can you point it out to me in the diagram please? Putting up a new pic of the diagram

 

[Strizzo]

put the fuel filter in the 1/4 inch line (after the reducer) which is like ~6-8 inches from the water separator before the carb inlet. that diagram is tiny and i can barely read it, must be getting old.

 

[Andross06]

lol sorry no its way to small. See I need to learn the names of the components too I see. Ok Ill take a look. Ty

 

[Strizzo]

basically the fuel lines are all 3/16ths on the feed side from the tank to the fuel selector to the water separator and then a few inches after the water separator there is a reducer from 3/16ths to 1/4 inch line, this is where i put my filter.

 

[Andross06]

Ok something that confused me also. The OEM fuel filter said 5/16th on both ends of the filter. Look at the filter in the picture above which side is which. I already replaced both fuel lines. I believe from the water separator with 1/4 line and the other end with 5/16 line to the carb. I just removed my fuel filter and it was practically falling apart and clogged really bad.

Question. When I try to crank the ski does that fuel filter fill with fuel? The one I took out is dry as a bone.

Also to make sure Im not wasting my time. Took catch everyone up on my issue. I have spark and compression, just not getting fuel to the engine. Any fuel select I put it on same result. It just cranks.
Did some troubleshooting, poured gas into each cylinder and it fired right up and then immediately shut off after 3 seconds.

 

[Strizzo]

crap, i need to go back to fractions, 5/16 is correct, sorry. 1/4 = 4/16, which is one size smaller than 5/16. sorry for the confusion

 

[Strizzo]

if you crank and pull the choke, yes the fuel filter should fill up. if you're not getting any fuel to the carbs, you might bypass the fuel selector valve to make sure it isn't stopped up. if you can get a good look at the top of the fuel baffle, i think there are some markings molded into it, make sure your "on" hose is on the right spot.

 

[Andross06]

See thats what Im thinkin I dont think it is on the right post. (smh) I cranked and pulled the choke and still nothing. I can hear it cranking faster. Like it speeds up, but doesnt turn over. Man the fuel filter on there now is bone dry.

It goes from the fuel tank, through the baffle, through the water separator, through the fuel filter into the carbs out the pulse and into the engine correct? This is the process? Or is the more lol

Now is the return lines meant for testing purposes. Change it to RES, the fuel goes into the carbs and returns the fuel tank. I'm sorry im not trying to sound dumb. Just trying to get the concept on the fuel lines lol

 

[Strizzo]

there are four posts on the fuel baffle, ON, RES, VENT, and RET. ON and RES go to the fuel selector, then there is a single line from the fuel selector to the water separator, then from there to the mag carb, then there's the Y and one side goes to the PTO carb and the other directly to the return line, which has another Y from the return line out of the PTO carb, then the return line goes straight back to the fuel baffle RET post.

check your baffle again to make sure you don't have the hoses in the wrong spot.

 

[Andross06]

Ok cool thank you so much for helpin, I will check tomorrow morning and post back around noon thanks again!

Also on the fuel selector, I think those posts are labeled too aren't they?

 

[Strizzo]

yes the fuel selector is labeled.

 

[Andross06]

Ok. I looked at the fuel selector and I see one that said off. Looked at the baffle and there are two posts that have nothing on them. The other two I replaced fuel lines on them. Thinking of removing those and see if they say something. I just thought all four post would say something?

 

[Strizzo]

What do the ones that are labeled say? If they are on and res, the other two don't matters high is which it's just the return and the vent, both should have short drops that don't go to the bottom of the tank.

 

[Andross06]

Ok so on the fuel selector valve. There is a post that says off. Do you know which hose that goes to?

 

[Andross06]

Ok bro thanks for your help. I finally was able to see where it read RES and ON post on the selector valve. I also have determined the correct posts on the baffle. They are on the correct posts. All fuel lines replaced still no fuel to engine, I have not, however, replaced the selector valve yet? Any ideas?

 

[Strizzo]

Check that you can flow through the valve in on and res positions.

If you drop he feed line in a cup of gas, will it pull it into the carb? Could be a fuel pump diaphragm.

 

[Andross06]

Can you please tell me which one, would be the feed line? And how can you check the flow through the on and RES positions?

Another problem has arrived now. When I put the lanyard on the post i get two beeps. I press the button and all I hear is a click noise, as if attempts to crank. It does not actual crank it just attempts. Have not yet tried to freely spin the driveshaft to see if its stuck. I will try that soon, but just curious as to what that could be as well.

 

[Strizzo]

Your battery is probably low from all the cranking. Charge it and try again.

Try this, from the inlet nipple on the carb, hook a hose to it and drop it into a small container of fuel. See if it will pull fuel out of the container and into the carb.

The middle port on the fuel selector doesn't say off, it says out. The other two are labeled on and res. the line from the out port goes to the fuel strainer inlet, then the outlet goes to the carb. The strainer has arrows molded into it showing flow direction.

 

[Andross06]

I see ok.. Im really thinking I should just stop. I called up this repair shop, and they said they can polish and clean the carbs, replace filters, and fuel lines all for $250 bucks, think this a good idea or the price is right?. Thinking of doing this that way i dont ruin something. Ive been really thinking about removing the carbs myself but I just dont have the time to get around to do all this. lol.

But i will try what your saying. By the way the crankshaft can spin freely in either direction. I will give the battery a good charge and try that tomorrow. But please comment on, if that is a good price to get these things fixed...

 

[Andross06]

Update* Ok so after replacing fuel lines, cleaning fuel selector valve, rebuilding carbs. The battery is charged. The lanyard is on, the trim goes up slightly, I press the start button, and it just clicks. I tried to jump the solenoid and it cranks fine, but it just clicks when the start button is pressed. All posts and connections have been checked for corrosion and are clean.

 

[Strizzo]

Sounds like the solenoid is bad.

 

[Andross06]

awwh my solenoid is kinda screwy looking. Thinking its the solenoid huh? I thought if it cranked it wouldnt be a solenoid issue, if you touched the two red wires together with a screw driver?

 

[Andross06]

So I tried to replace the battery with a fully charged battery I took out of my 95 Seadoo and it still does the same thing. It just clicks. When I jump the solenoid it cranks fine. Im at loss with this guys.. :/

 

[Strizzo]

if it just clicks when you hit the start button, the solenoid is not working. you can confrim 12v to the solenoid trigger with a voltmeter, or keep a finger on the solenoid to feel for it clicking. when the solenoid just clicks and you can get it to crank by jumping the terminals, the solenoid is not closing the circuit.

EDIT: you guys get some good rain the last couple days? we're camping at pace bend on lake travis weekend of the 27th. if you can get your skis together by then you should come out.

 

[Andross06]

Aww makes perfect sense! Dude the rain hasnt stop until recently man! Downpour over here last couple days. We'll take it though you know? Hell getting to work lol. But ok I need to look into replacing the solenoid from what it sounds like, but my only concern based on my electric box you see above, how would I be able to use a OEM solenoid and not this strange rig? lol

But definately man just have to get some funds together to get them registered and I should be out there man. It would be some fun bro!

I will check for Volts at the solenoid thanks again for your input.