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!!!! Fuel Baffle Fuse Replacement !!!!!

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Wave_Raiderz

Wave_Raiderz

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Hey Guys,

This is an old post that i want to bring back to life as i have a couple questions regarding it.

Here is the URL for it as i can not re open the post.

http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?53129-Fuel-Baffle-Fuse-Replacement

My questions are can i perform the same procedure as he did but on my 95 seadoo xp or will i need a different fuse? Also, do i still have to cut the baffle open and remove the F1 fuse and fill the board where the F1 fuse was with solder?

They way i'm seeing it is I have to cut the baffle open and remove the F1 fuse and replace it with a solder fill, then plastic weld the baffle back together and make an in line fuse splice near my MPEM so its more accessible. Plus add the proper fuse according to what 1648aws said in his post or one one corresponding to the 95 seadoo XP specs that i have no idea about. If someone can help me out here that would be great. Cheers
 
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I'm not sure in the case of a 1995 XP, but my Sportster boat had a surface-mount chip-fuse on the baffle PCB near the top under the rubber grommet on the component side of the PCB. I had to remove the rubber grommet from the baffle in order to cut the hole, I cut it using a dremel and zip-bit, cut a square hole as per the many photos already posted.

When/if you cut your baffle open, make sure not to cut into the draw tubes or you won't be able to pump fuel from the tank. I elected to leave the hole I cut open, I didn't reweld it using tie-wraps as welding sticks. I haven't noticed any ill-effects, maybe my gauge reading fluctuates more than it would if the hole was welded, not sure, but it seems to work just fine.

I didn't remove the open fuse, I just soldered a bridge around it.

I personally don't see an electrical reason to have a fuse on the baffle PCB, I think the current comes from and is limited by, the gauge? This is the only fuel sensor I've ever seen that uses circuit protection inside the fuel tank. Not sure but if the gauge is fed 12v directly then it should be fused at the current source, so I don't understand the purpose of having a fuse inside the baffle other than perhaps, planned obsolescence.
 
The 95 and older baffles are not rebuildable, they have different internals than the newer 96+ ones. You more than likely need a NEW white fuel float, the older baffles rarely go bad, its the newer (96+) ones that spit the fuses.
 
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Thanks for the replies.

I went ahead and took my baffle out and cut a hole on the side at the top to access the F1 resistor. I then removed the F1 resistor and replaced it with a solder fill. After that I plastic welded it back together and tested it. She worked like a gem.

As far as the external fuse goes, I went down to my mechanics and he had explained the entire baffle fuse replacement myths and so on. When i asked him if this procedure that is all over Internet is true and safe he said yes. First of all he told me that the F1 is not a fuse its a resistor. There is no way that anyone would put a positive and a negative in a fuel area what so ever. That's why you cannot replace them and have to buy the complete part. If it was a fuse inside then he said you would need to worry because they can arc and so on. And as far as adding an in line fuse to the exterior is said it doesn't matter but is not needed as its a resistor.
 
If it were a resistor, it would be labeled R1, not F1. EE101 will teach you that but I'm guessing your mechanic is not an engineer. There is no resistance in the system when the tank reads full, 0 ohms resistance so the value of the "resistor" would be 0 ohms? Haven't seen one of them. There are all types of fuses and I'm sure this is a permanent fuse that is sealed and only sparks internally so no risk of explosion.
 
Ski-doo,

I guess I miss understood him then. I read another article and your right. Says the same thing. http://www.jetskiplus.com/servlet/the-template/fuelbaffletest/Page

I installed an external in-line fuse as well about 20" away from my baffle as 1648aws did. I understand it isn't necessary but I feel better knowing that if it happens again its taken care of. If it happened once it could happen again. There has to be a reason why seadoo put it there in the first place. It wasnt there for pure cosmetics. It serves a purpose. Also, the in line fuse in a easy accessible location now so the repair will be quick.
 
The reason it is there is if somebody hooked up a voltage source to that connector. The circuit would act like a resistor and heat up and possibly arc if it blew which is not good in your fuel tank. If you don't plug in a voltage source, it's not necessary.

The reason they blow isn't because of voltage, just age I would think. An extra safe design with a little bit of planned obsolescence isn't a bad thing if you're seadoo.
 
Good to know. But for say someone did hook one up its better to be safe. Lets say I sold it to someone and they for some reason hooked up a voltage source and BOOM. I would feel pretty shitty cause I couldn't be bothered to add a $10 part and an 1hr of my time. If seadoo did it we should do it. We can't reply on everyone to assume things. People have trust in people to do things proper. So if we are saving $200 for a new baffle what's a few bucks to ensure we did it the way it should have been. Well that's the way I see it.
 
but if you installed a fuse 20" away from the baffle you've put the fuse on the fuel gauge side of the loom and not the baffle side, so pre baffle connector as opposed to after... so you haven't really safeguarded anything.... unless of course the loom on the baffle to the connector is 20" + long....
 
ski-d00 said:
If it were a resistor, it would be labeled R1, not F1. EE101 will teach you that but I'm guessing your mechanic is not an engineer. There is no resistance in the system when the tank reads full, 0 ohms resistance so the value of the "resistor" would be 0 ohms? Haven't seen one of them. There are all types of fuses and I'm sure this is a permanent fuse that is sealed and only sparks internally so no risk of explosion.
Click to expand...

They do make zero ohm resistors and they do act as a fuse.
 
I think that's the definition of a fuse. Why would someone buy a 0 ohm resistor? Actually, any strand of wire might be considered a zero ohm resistor and a fuse at the same time, put enough current through it and it will blow.

Show me where to buy a zero ohm resistor. I've seen very, very low resistors for specialty electronics, but not zero. I think by definition every wire has some resistance so not sure how to even get to zero.
 
The electronics industry uses them for board configurations. They have pick-and-place machines that can configure the same circuit board in many different configurations just by how many and where they place the zero ohm resistors, aka jumpers. They are used quite often in circuit board design, but I don't know of an instance where they are used as a fuse, necessarily. It would have to be a very low power rated resistor for it to act like a fuse, like the one SeeDoo uses in their baffles. Most of the fuses I've seen in circuit board designs is a zig-zag pattern of a thin trace. The idea here is if enough current flows through the zig-zag pattern in a small area, it will generate enough heat to cause the trace to melt and effectively blow the fuse, typically a slow blow fuse.
 
On the PCB, the silkscreen says F1, if I recall, so whatever it is that's surface mounted is most likely intended as a fuse. My belief is, this is not a good idea, and si I jumped that little chip fuse by soldering a jumper made of solder onto the traces.

Problem solved, works great! The tough part was pulling the rubber grommet off the baffle so that I could cut an access hole using my dremel and a rotary bit.
 
When I did mine, I used the flat blade on my weller soldering gun, Sliced through it like butter! and no plastic airborn particles. Just tidied up the edges with an x-acto blade, then re-installed. Filled the gap with a white tie strap that I melted, or now to make it look nicer, the next one, I may try Epoxy. I don't know how it will hold up to gasoline though, that is why i melted it.
 
- BiRkS_ said:
When I did mine, I used the flat blade on my weller soldering gun, Sliced through it like butter! and no plastic airborn particles. Just tidied up the edges with an x-acto blade, then re-installed. Filled the gap with a white tie strap that I melted, or now to make it look nicer, the next one, I may try Epoxy. I don't know how it will hold up to gasoline though, that is why i melted it.
Click to expand...

Yeah, on my boat I didn't bother to repair the access hole I made. I figured a boat doesn't slosh around like a ski does, so the baffle is overkill in a boat.

The only reason I didn't use a hot wire type of cutter is b/c I hate filling the room with toxic burning plastic fumes and I was working indoors. I used compressed air to blow all the flastic fuzzy dust out of the baffle after roto-zipping my access hole. And just left the hole open b/c this is a boat.

Epoxy wouldn't be my choice, I prefer welding it with a type of plastic that is fuel resistant, many epoxies aren't fuel proof, I think.
 
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- BiRkS_ said:
When I did mine, I used the flat blade on my weller soldering gun, Sliced through it like butter! and no plastic airborn particles. Just tidied up the edges with an x-acto blade, then re-installed. Filled the gap with a white tie strap that I melted, or now to make it look nicer, the next one, I may try Epoxy. I don't know how it will hold up to gasoline though, that is why i melted it.
Click to expand...

I used a zip-tie, too. I don't imagine a tie strap will dissolve in gasoline, do you? I guess I could try it and let everyone know. I patched my hole because I like the idea of all the gas coming through the filter at the bottom of the baffle, whatever percentage of a full tank that might be.
 
grhonk said:
I used a zip-tie, too. I don't imagine a tie strap will dissolve in gasoline, do you? I guess I could try it and let everyone know. I patched my hole because I like the idea of all the gas coming through the filter at the bottom of the baffle, whatever percentage of a full tank that might be.
Click to expand...

Nylon is pretty fuel resistant. I' would be hesitant of doing this indoors, especially if I owned a parakeet or other kind of indoor pet bird.
 
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