Fuel and oil lines

[sschnei]

Looking over the ski I purchased recently and I see the dreaded gray fuel lines in both the 95 and 96 GTX. From what I've read, these gotta go. Local autoparts store sells 1/4" fuel line for 1.28/ft. Any idea how much I'll need for each ski?

What about the oil lines, should they be replaced? Looks like there are three different sizes...6, 8 and 12 mm. Can I use fuel line for these?

Are the filters cleanable or should they be replaced?

Thank you

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Replace the oil filter...and the only lines you need to replace there are the injection lines. 3/32" id.

Those machines need about 20' 1/4 for each machine. On the 95, take the 2 bolts holding the steering cable bracket out and move it out of the way. Then take the fuel selector and fuel/water seperator out, then you can take the whole system out in one piece.

On the 96, popping out the glovebox make it a bit easier.

Clean the selector out throughly, as well as the sperator/filter. I use zipties in place of clamps.

If the carbs have not been gone thru, its a good time to check the little filters inside of them at the very least, and even better fully rebuild them with new genuine mikuni kits, and new needles and seats.

Clean the rave valves on the 96.

Also not a bad idea to do a pump oil change to check for water. When reassembling make sure to use a new OEM o-ring on the cone and some sealant.

 

[sschnei]

Great, thanks for the info. I guess the 3/32" injector line is what I would find at a lawn shop, used on 2 cycle mowers or weedeaters?

I hadn't thought of using zipties. Didn't think they would hold the fuel pressure without leaking, but if you doing it with success that's all I need to know.

I don't know if the carbs have been gone through recently, most likely not. To check the filters in the carbs it looks like a couple of gaskets would need to be replaced. Is that correct?

Thank you.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Yup, my hardware store has them...tygon is the best.

Use real good zipties...not out of the .99 kit of 500.

The gaskets usually hold up...but once you get in there you can feel the diaphrams and if they are a little crunchy its time to get a kit. New ones are nice and soft. I recommend rebuilding them as its a good piece of mind....they will be good for a long time.

 

[Dr Honda]

Use real good zipties...not out of the .99 kit of 500.

Good advice (lol) :cheers:


Every year see guys that say they used zip ties (because we told them to) but they popped off, and it was our fault. Our normal response is..... "Don't use Dollar store crap."


I personally use zip ties on the oil system, and I have NEVER had an issue. The factory metal crimp clamps only work if you have the swedging tool to install them. I know people that put them on with pliers... but a little too loose, and they don't seal... and a little too tight, and the split the hose.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

For sure...those cheapos are good for nothing. They give the greatest invention EVAR a bad name.

 

[sschnei]

Replacing the fuel lines on the '95 was fairly straight forward thanks to the tips provided by this forum. Thank you.
I tried to verify the fuel level sensor was working by just flipping the pick-up tube over and making sure it reads full. I got no reading on the gauge??? Is this a valid way to check or is the fuel sensor bad?
I didn't get to the oil injector lines yet. I was trying to reach them with my hands, but could not feel them. Do the carbs need to be removed to access or just the air intake housing assy?

 

[Watson91]

I took the air intake and carbs off when I did mine and it made life a lot easier.