Flooded 2004 RXP

[drswiger]

I let my buddy use the RXP for the weekend. Big mistake. From what he tells me, he never put the plugs in. Says it ran fine then he docked it to going shopping and various crap and when he return, it was 1/2 under. Thanks a lot! Now, I am trying to get water out. I removed the plugs, drained the oil , cranked it to try and blow out the cylinders and replaced filter. Changed oil twice. Still milky and won't start. I am more of a motorcycle guy, so can someone help me here? What else do I need to do to get the damn water out? Seems like it is still somewhere.
Thanks in advance

 

[dylan1323]

water probably got in the gears and all and is now mixing with the oil causing it to turn milky. try to disconnect the oil lines and drain all of it not just the oil n the tank but the oil n the gears and all. thats about all i know about that issue.

just some more advice for future referance, i highly suggest installing an automatic bildge pump. u can get a good one for about 70-80$. theyre great and if u connect them straight to the battery itll drain water even when its shut off. the only disadvantage is u need to have a really good high$ sealed battery to make sure the bildge doesnt run it dead. if you do this then you can leave it docked for days and not worry about the ski filling with water! hope my advice helped

 

[ski-d00]

take the valve cover off and insert the oil suction tube into the rear pto housing past the timing chain, there will be a ton of water there.

keep doing what you're doing, you'll get it, just takes a bunch of oil changes.

 

[Michael211_2000]

You cannot drain the engine oil from a 4TEC engine from ANY oil lines, they're all higher up on the engine crankcase Dylan.

You can only suck the oil/water mix out with a suction pump, and there are MANY many spaces inside the 4TEC engine where water/oil mix will be trapped and not drain back down into the crankcase proper.

Wiger it cranks over but does not start correct? Likely it needs to sit a day or two with the seat off to air out and dry out inside, electrical components got wet... they'll dry out though in a day or two and go back to working again I bet. However you do still want to get as much of the water out of the crankcase as possible, are you using the correct oil changing procedure of cranking while holding WOT for 20 seconds or so with the oil suction tube removed then sucking again to get as much oil/water mix out as possible? Holding WOT, it will NOT start even if it can this disables the ignition coils. Do not crank with the suction hose in the crankcase however you can get it wrapped up around the crankshaft.

Also it is likely that the intake manifold has water inside it now, it can hold about a quart or so of liquid in it... you should go ahead and unplug the sensors and unbolt it and take it off and dump it out.

It's going to take 2 - 3 oil changes to get all the water out. Not fun! Take this time to research (search this forum) adding an auto-electric bilge pump to your watercraft they are priceless and only take a few hours and <$75 to install and no you don't need an upgraded battery unless you plan to leave it floating all alone for days at a time a normal battery will work just fine it'll let you know when there's water pouring into the hull so you can do something about it... if you'd had an automatic electric bilge pump wired with the auto line to the battery directly (so that it's in auto mode 100% of the time) then your buddy would have seen it dumping water overboard and wondered what's up with that and checked to find it taking on water thru the open drain cocks and closed them. Problem averted!

- Michael

 

[drswiger]

Thanks for the replies. What a biaaaaaaatch! Completed 3rd fnnnn oil change and got it to crank for a short time but I feel I am pulling water from some damn place. Still freakin milky. I have not pulled the intake completely off. Do I need to do that? Is that where I may have water I am having trapped? If so, can someone give me a little step by step? I'm not even real sure how to get the damn hoses off! What kind of alien ass clamp is on there? Not a standard hose clamp! GM just dumping cheap oil in til this is all done.
I know one thing....I will be investing in a bilge pump.
Thanks for everyone's help

 

[drswiger]

Ok, its raining here so work stopped, but I was able to remove the intake hose from the supercharger inlet. I stuck my fingers in and the supercharger is full of water. I can feel it. How do I get the water out. Very cramped in there. Do I have to remove the supercharger? Dont see how you have room to get those bolts out unless you can remove the top deck or something.
Advice, suggestions.

 

[ding]

Ok, its raining here so work stopped, but I was able to remove the intake hose from the supercharger inlet. I stuck my fingers in and the supercharger is full of water. I can feel it. How do I get the water out. Very cramped in there. Do I have to remove the supercharger? Dont see how you have room to get those bolts out unless you can remove the top deck or something.
Advice, suggestions.

Punch friend in face

 

[red2blue]

Dont see how you have room to get those bolts out unless you can remove the top deck or something.
Advice, suggestions.

Dang....you're gonna need a 1/4" 12pt box end wrench or an E8 I believe torx socket. only 3 bolts..relax...it ain't that hard to remove. You're gonna have more fun taking off the bungee's holding the water box ...and of course re-attaching heheheh.

 

[Wenier]

Poke your oil suction tube in the supercharger and see if you can suck it out with that, this would at least save removing the bugger.

 

[red2blue]

pft...would never get the tube past the blades...c'mon. Ah..you mean to the TB? eh...I'd pull it.

 

[Michael211_2000]

Ok you definitely got water all the way into the intake manifold too then, you're going to have to take it off and dump it out... sounds like your friend sunk it more than just 1/2 way.

For the supercharger, why don't you 1st try using a wet/dry vac and see if it won't suck all the water out? A good strong wet/dry vac can be a powerful thing!

Those crimped on clamps, either use a dremel with a cut-off wheel to cut them loose or use a pair of side cut wire-cutters to cut the crimp off... you'll have to go to auto parts and get similar sized waterhose clamps to replace them with.

Again, if the supercharger is full of water I can pretty much guarantee you the intake manifold has water in it also. Why don't you get your "friend" to get his butt over to your place and help you with this? Any friend who didn't help me to fix something he screwed up wouldn't be a friend of mine any longer! His mistake was an honest one, but not being there to help you fix the thing is a whole nother matter IMHO! :-(

- Michael

 

[drswiger]

He doesnt know how to replace batteries in a flashlight, know what Im saying? Wouldnt be much help.
Now, with that said, I did the wet/dry vac trick on the supercharger inlet and the f--ker started. Now, remember, this is 5 oil changes and 10 scraped knuckles later.
The oil is still very milky though. So I guess my question is,WTF do I do now. Do I still have to pull the SC, or do I do 15 more oil changes? Am I pissing in the wind with the oil changes? I obviously acomplished something I guess, if I got it started.
BTW, who designed this shit?! How bout a dame oil drain plug? Is every jet ski like this or just Seadoo?
Help a brotha out, whats my next step?

 

[Michael211_2000]

Most all inboard boats/watercraft lack a (accessible) bottom drain plug to drain the engine oil in my experience. Even my Sidewinder jetboat with 454 BB engine doesn't have the oil pan drain plug where it's accessable.

Not much of a friend... but oh well.

Did you drain the intake manifold already???

Glad to hear it at least started up finally.... I knew it probably would in a day or two after the electronics dried out completely. Leave the seats off as much as possible so it'll keep drying out inside. When you do the oil change are you doing the crank WOT for 20 seconds then putting the suction tube back in and sucking more oil out or not? The engine holds 4.6 quarts total (more with water in the oil of course!), but due to all the spaces in the engine and PTO assembly you can only suck out about 3 quarts at a time without cranking it holding WOT (it will NOT start at WOT, this disables the ignition system you can try it with the oil still in it and you'll note that it won't start while holding WOT). The cranking it moves more oil out of the spaces in the engine and down into the crankcase.

- Michael

 

[drswiger]

Yes, doing the WOT. Just pissed because I was hoping the oil would start looking better after 5 damn times but still looks like weak chocolate milk. If I run it, that is on the water, will that help or hurt?

 

[drswiger]

If I ever get this shit fixed, Im epoxying my drain plugs in and installing a bilge pump!

 

[Michael211_2000]

How about just not loaning it out to people? Friends or otherwise, if you're not going with them then NO they can't take it. You are legally responsible for any harm they do on your watercraft you realize this right? If they cause an accident with another boat, or hurt or kill someone, it all comes back on the legal owner of the watercraft and that is you! This could have been so much worse. :-(

The oil should be improving by leaps and bounds. For 3rd or 4th time, did you drain the intake manifold? If it's got water in it then a little water will get sucked into the cylinders everytime you run it... not enough to hydrolock the pistons, but enough to seep down past the rings and into the engine oil contaminating it yet again. It could take you 100's of oil changes before the intake manifold runs out of water finally on it's own... good luck with that! ;-)

- Michael

 

[Michael211_2000]

You are changing the oil filter as well as the oil each time right? A contaminated oil filter will re-contaminate fresh oil.

Do consider, had your "buddy" been able to start the engine when he saw it was sitting VERY low in the water, the engine would have then ingested water and hydrolocked a piston in a heartbeat.... this would have bent the connecting rod on that piston very likely, as the other 2 pistons try to push the hydrolocked piston all the way to the top which a piston with water on top cannot do.... and that costs some $4500 and takes a couple weeks to pull, dismantel the engine, replace the bent connecting rod, re-assemble the engine and reinstall it into the hull proper.

So count your lucky stars he didn't bring it back with a loud rattling and banging noise when next you tried to start it. This could have been oh so much more expensive than a few oil changes!

Just putting things into a little perspective here. You actually dodged a bullet if you stop to consider what could have happened. ;-)

- Michael

 

[drswiger]

Your right. Thanks for the advice. I took the intake manifold off and found the half cup of water that was perpetually causing the problem. I have it all apart on the garage floor
I will put it all back together sometime this week. I have everything labeled in baggies like I do for every project so let's hope I don't have any parts left over when I put it back together.
Thank you you Michael

 

[Michael211_2000]

Told ya! LOL!

It's not that difficult to put the intake manifold back on, just take your time and don't try to rush... most everything only goes in 1 place and 1 place only (at least BRP did that right on!).

Let us know how it turns out once you get it back together and have run it a little bit... don't forget to get that electric bilge pump installed, it's great peace of mind! Keep in mind you should never see it automatically pumping water overboard, but IF you do see it pumping water out then KNOW that you have a bad leak and get it in a lift or back on the trailer immediately! The OEM auto bailer system will normally keep the hull free of water, so the electric pump should never need to do anything but be there as insurance just in case.

Regards!

- Michael