First time owner, what should I know?

[csdawson97]

Hi guys! I’m picking up a seadoo 3 seater supercharged tomorrow, I’m not sure the exact model. I’m an HVAC contractor and had a surplus of newer used equipment taken off an apartment remodel and had a guy offer a 4 wheeler and the seadoo for one of them installed. Since I have no cash tied in it, only a days time, I agreed. I looked at them both but didn’t examine them. The seadoo looked in good physical shape, wasn’t really faded, cover was in good shape, I only pulled the cover back and looked at front part, had been stored outdoors (we’re in upstate SC, we’ve had a good bit of freezing nights in past several months). He says the seadoo has a fresh motor rebuild, hasn’t been in the water since it was done. I’m checking them both out tomorrow before we start work, what do I need to know to check on it? How do you run them out of water? I had a bow rider years back and ran it with muffs when working on it, but have never owned a jetski, only ridden friends. Is there anything to check on the supercharger? Any particular places to examine for fiberglass cracks? I’ll post the year, model, and a pic tomorrow when I get there. Any help or advice would be appreciated! I’m extremely mechanically minded, but jet skis are completely unfamiliar to me and I don’t want to delude myself that I know what I’m doing.

 

[Greg Moore]

Don't concern yourself too much with the condition of the glass. The motor and S/C are your prime concerns.. Once you know year, model, hours (will display when 'key' is connected) you might get more help.. You can generally find the owners manuals for newer machines online, read it!

 

[csdawson97]

Alright just got it home. Went through with the trade, it started up just fine on a battery pack, it’ll need a battery or a charge. It’s a 2003 GTX 4Tec with 291 hours. It has a salvage title, which I can’t figure out. The body has absolutely no damage or repaired damage aside from some scuffs on the bottom from beaching. Will sinking total a ski? That’s the only thing I can figure happened, because the motor has definitely been completely rebuilt, everything in the engine bay looks like brand new aside from the head has some slight surface corrosion. Impeller and all that jazz looks new. He said he put a rebuilt supercharger from eBay on it with the rebuild, I’m assuming the ceramic plates have been replaced if that’s the case. I’ll post a bunch of pics once I get it into my shop.

 

[goheelzfan]

Sinking would could be considered a total loss.
I bought my 1st jetski 2 weeks ago as well (2005 RXP). I carried it to my boat mechanic and I had the supercharger rebuilt, wear ring replaced, oil and pugs changed. The SC rebuild was my biggest concern, as it was the original with 167 hours on it.

 

[csdawson97]

Sinking would could be considered a total loss.
I bought my 1st jetski 2 weeks ago as well (2005 RXP). I carried it to my boat mechanic and I had the supercharger rebuilt, wear ring replaced, oil and pugs changed. The SC rebuild was my biggest concern, as it was the original with 167 hours on it.

I talked to the previous owner again today. He bought it from the auction, and when he got it, the engine was mostly gone. So his and my best guess was theft recovery. Either way, the motor is completely redone as is the supercharger. Runs like a top, hoping to go drop it in the lake this afternoon and see how it does.

 

[goheelzfan]

Did he have the salvage title when he took possession of it?

Let us know how the iceberg plung goes today.

 

[Greg Moore]

Reasons for salvage vary by location but in many places salvage is the same as total loss. If it were stolen and then recovered without the engine, that's an immediate total loss for these guys. A SeaDoo dealer will quote around $7K to put a complete new engine in it which is more than the value of the complete unit. They show them as a total loss and auction the remaining assembly to recoup losses.. Sounds like that's what you may have. Probably a good deal in that case depending on what it's perceived value is to you in this transaction.

 

[csdawson97]

Shakedown cruise! Ran awesome, the battery was just dead, I left it on charge over night and it did fine all afternoon. Out of the hole, it seems like it’s cavitating, has a similar feeling to a burnout on a motorcycle. The motor immediately revs to 8k and just sits there until it gets up to about 25mph then it feels like it “grabs traction” and goes. Is that normal or no? Also after long hard pulls, it would flash a check engine code, didn’t go into limp mode but wouldn’t rev past 6k. Engine temp showed 62° so I’m pretty sure the temp sensor is bad. Doesn’t seem like it was overheating. Turning it off, pulling the key and starting it up again cleared it until it did it again. Any ideas or do I need a code reader?

 

[csdawson97]

Reasons for salvage vary by location but in many places salvage is the same as total loss. If it were stolen and then recovered without the engine, that's an immediate total loss for these guys. A SeaDoo dealer will quote around $7K to put a complete new engine in it which is more than the value of the complete unit. They show them as a total loss and auction the remaining assembly to recoup losses.. Sounds like that's what you may have. Probably a good deal in that case depending on what it's perceived value is to you in this transaction.

Definitely came out on top. I had $500 in the airhandler, plus the used condenser, a days labor and probably $100 worth of hardware. For me, the all new mechanicals make it a ridiculous value.

 

[Greg Moore]

You're experiencing cavitation, very normal and totally not what it should do 90% of the time it just needs a new wear ring, other causes are a damaged impeller or something stuck in impeller blades. Wear ring clearance to impeller is 1000's of an inch, if you can see space, or grooves in the ring, it's toast. Fix it and it wll grab like it's on racing slicks. As for a code reader, you can buy them, but they're expensive. Local SeaDoo dealer can read for you but you should also be able to (I think an 03 does) pull the codes manually. A lot of times it isn't engine hot but exhaust hot. This in rare cases can go with your cavitation too. The jet pump that moves you also supplies water to cool the exhaust so it needs to work right. Sounds like a good deal overall, a portion of that more is worth what you have in the whole machine!

 

[Ruskeyjdm]

Reasons for salvage vary by location but in many places salvage is the same as total loss. If it were stolen and then recovered without the engine, that's an immediate total loss for these guys. A SeaDoo dealer will quote around $7K to put a complete new engine in it which is more than the value of the complete unit. They show them as a total loss and auction the remaining assembly to recoup losses.. Sounds like that's what you may have. Probably a good deal in that case depending on what it's perceived value is to you in this transaction.

Definitely came out on top. I had $500 in the airhandler, plus the used condenser, a days labor and probably $100 worth of hardware. For me, the all new mechanicals make it a ridiculous value.

Congrats on the sweet deal, welcome to the forum.
I am also located in Upstate SC, where are you riding?

 

[csdawson97]

Reasons for salvage vary by location but in many places salvage is the same as total loss. If it were stolen and then recovered without the engine, that's an immediate total loss for these guys. A SeaDoo dealer will quote around $7K to put a complete new engine in it which is more than the value of the complete unit. They show them as a total loss and auction the remaining assembly to recoup losses.. Sounds like that's what you may have. Probably a good deal in that case depending on what it's perceived value is to you in this transaction.

Definitely came out on top. I had $500 in the airhandler, plus the used condenser, a days labor and probably $100 worth of hardware. For me, the all new mechanicals make it a ridiculous value.

Congrats on the sweet deal, welcome to the forum.
I am also located in Upstate SC, where are you riding?

Cool man! I went to Bowen today, I live just down the road. I haven’t gotten the paperwork back on it yet obviously, but called the game wardens office and he said a 20 minute shakedown is fine. Which may have turned into an hour cruise and being late for dinner with friends lol.

Only code showing is P1509 Lake Temp Circuit out of range.

 

[csdawson97]

More reading on the forum makes me think I have an oil pressure sensor issue throwing the code and limp mode and that the lake temp sensor wouldn’t effect engine or performance. (I assume 5-6k limit is limp, I figured it’d be lower) One post said an oil pressure sensor won’t throw a code, is that true? Or will it show the code if i get it to trip, then check it BEFORE I reset it by pulling the key?

 

[Greg Moore]

You have the learning key by chance? No idea what it limits to on that machine but full on is over 8K normally, that would be about right for a learning key

 

[csdawson97]

You have the learning key by chance? No idea what it limits to on that machine but full on is over 8K normally, that would be about right for a learning key

Sorry, I mean it revs to 8k normally. When it tripped the check engine light it went down to 6k. I thought was a little high to be a limp mode but now I’m thinking it was limp mode.

 

[ski-d00]

Well, the rev limiter on the 03 gtx sc is 7650 so shouldn't go higher than that ever. You have the 185 hp model, not the 215 which rev limits at 8200.

The 03 gtx sc has the plastic pump that eats wear rings, do a search where I explain the situation and the solution to switch to the 04 and newer aluminum pump.

Put lanyard on and press set 5 times to get codes. You have to be experiencing the problem when you press set 5 times or the code may become inactive when you shut it off and not show up which is what the oil pressure switch codes do.

 

[csdawson97]

Well, the rev limiter on the 03 gtx sc is 7650 so shouldn't go higher than that ever. You have the 185 hp model, not the 215 which rev limits at 8200.

The 03 gtx sc has the plastic pump that eats wear rings, do a search where I explain the situation and the solution to switch to the 04 and newer aluminum pump.

Put lanyard on and press set 5 times to get codes. You have to be experiencing the problem when you press set 5 times or the code may become inactive when you shut it off and not show up which is what the oil pressure switch codes do.

When it was rebuilt it may have had a later motor installed or rev limit flashed because it definitely goes over 8k and bounces there when you nail it, I’ll post a clip next time I’m out. I’ll have to check that out about the pump, I was looking under it today and the gap around the impeller was about the size of a pencil lead. I’ll check code next time it throws.

 

[ski-d00]

may not be an 03, post some pics of it. the 03 gtx sc models were either red or yellow with a silver hood, and the ltd model that was brownish gold.

 

[csdawson97]

may not be an 03, post some pics of it. the 03 gtx sc models were either red or yellow with a silver hood, and the ltd model that was brownish gold.

Title shows 2003 also. Now I may be mistaken on revs but to best of my memory it definitely seemed to be over 8k. I’ve been wrong before though.

 

[lamajama]

More reading on the forum makes me think I have an oil pressure sensor issue throwing the code and limp mode and that the lake temp sensor wouldn’t effect engine or performance. (I assume 5-6k limit is limp, I figured it’d be lower) One post said an oil pressure sensor won’t throw a code, is that true? Or will it show the code if i get it to trip, then check it BEFORE I reset it by pulling the key?

In my experience OP sensors throw a code AND are common issues. There should be one located at front of block and rear. Replace both. Cheap and quick fix.

 

[csdawson97]

Another question. I was looking up under it in the intake, and see that the drive shaft goes into what’s essentially a hole in the hull. Is that correct, or is there supposed to be a seal of some sort there?

 

[ski-d00]

The seal is on the inside, called a carbon seal.

 

[Greg Moore]

Correct, just looks like a loose open hole from outside. Inside is a polished disk sealed to shaft with an o-ring that rides against a smooth carbon puck held against it under spring pressure and sealed to the hull via a small bellows

 

[Digdog]

Yeah check that carbon seal, get in there and look to see if there is a gap between the stainless disk and the carbon ring. I only put 20 hrs on mine since replacing it(((( and now it needs a new one again, there are many articles about it and guys boats sinking because of failures.

 

[csdawson97]

Yeah check that carbon seal, get in there and look to see if there is a gap between the stainless disk and the carbon ring. I only put 20 hrs on mine since replacing it(((( and now it needs a new one again, there are many articles about it and guys boats sinking because of failures.

Where do I check it, from underneath where the drive shaft goes into the hull? Or from inside the hull?