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Fiberglass work

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Wow Sportster 2001! Seriously schooled here . Thanks for education. Please help me with input on my project under 2stroke. Xpl 4tec carbon fiber build.
 
I have not had that problem on my custom boats!
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Oh boy that epoxy paint smells. The Seadoo factory engine paint was wicked back in the day. I painted over grease on engines and it held up like powder coating!
 
Latest info on this....
I got a quote from one guy, so far. They are already all backed up near the lake. The quote was for wet sand, repair, prep and awlgrip (actually awlcraft, which I understand is the spray version). $5,000!!!!!

I am pulling the boat on April 11 to have outdrive service performed and it will be in the driveway, so I can get to it with tools and stuff that are a PITA with the thing on the dock. I will try the wet sand first, based on the feedback, I guess I have nothing to lose. I have 400, 600, 800, 1000 and 1500 grit. I will start with 600 and see if it is aggressive enough.
 
I have always heard the cracks you are referring to called "spider cracks" I know mastercraft had a big problem with them when the X-Star first came out with the pickle fork bow and were actually buying back boats from customers. Ours is a 2006 and has a few on hard angles on the back. It was my understanding that it had to do with the bond between the gelcoat and the glass if conditions were not perfect during the application. I have also seen the form when a screw hole is drilled and not chamfered and the crack can spread. As far as I have been told there is no fix and a good color match can be impossible.

 
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That original photo may be misleading. Those little cracks are not joined together like spiderweb cracks. They are completely random and follow no discernible pattern.

While the first quote I got was pretty pricey, the guy pretty well confirmed they are caused by heat fatigue as he said he sees it a lot in the top, darker colors of bass boats.

But, I don't know much in this area at all, hence the post.

When I get this off the dock and in the driveway, I will try the wetsand process and take lots of pix. Maybe an opportunity to teach an old dog new tricks.

BTW: the link above from Sportster is really good.


-Dave
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I have always heard the cracks you are referring to called "spider cracks" I know mastercraft had a big problem with them when the X-Star first came out with the pickle fork bow and were actually buying back boats from customers. Ours is a 2006 and has a few on hard angles on the back. It was my understanding that it had to do with the bond between the gelcoat and the glass if conditions were not perfect during the application. I have also seen the form when a screw hole is drilled and not chamfered and the crack can spread. As far as I have been told there is no fix and a good color match can be impossible.

Probably the gelcoat was too thick, gel coat is rather brittle and thick(er) layers tend to crack easier. Or, could be it wasn't mixed with the proper ratio of catalyst. I'll bet Mastercraft knew exactly what caused it.

The colors are subject to building up heat and the differential coefficient of expansion if too thick can cause a "buckling" effect resulting in cracks.
 
303, somehow that sounds familiar.

I may pick some up, I don't think I have anything to lose.

Sportster, have you tried the Interlux 1 part polyurethane topside paint? Supposedly, you can get a mirror finish with a brush on and tip off.


-Dave
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I keep reading this thread over and over and I think you're going to have to pay someone to wet sand it or just deal with it. Sorry if that sounded harsh. I know it's gonna suck, I have wet sanded a few skis and it down right sucks. But there is no mystery spray or wipe out there that is gonna do it, and I was working with stuff that wasn't cracked. As far as painting I wouldn't be down with that as I know I'd never be happy and always be worried. I have buddies that build some high end hot rods and can lay sick paint like no ones business, so I know I have the guys with the skills to pay the bills if you know what I mean. Without fixing the cracks below in time they will resurface in the paint. It's the nature of the beast. In time you can spot crap prep work as the paint continues to (sink) cure and the solvents evaporate the shoddy prep will surface. The base that you lay paint on is hands down THE MOST important part of the ENTIRE process. Your prep of the base is 99% of the job, painting is the easy part. Not to mention where there aren't any cracks now, how can you guarantee with certainty that it won't continue again ruining your top coat. I hate to sound negative but I'm just trying to be a realist. Honestly, I'd probably just keep buffing it every season and deal with the cracks, and I like my stuff about as close to perfect as I can get. The only thing I'd ever paint with a brush it the trim in my house or cutting in a corner on a wall, never my prized toys.
 
That is really good input,racer. I have followed a lot of your posts and value your opinion. On that last quote, half of it ($2500) was for the awlcraft prep work(1500 repair, 2500 prep, 1K Awlcraft). I certainly don't have the equipment and having never painted or repaired a hull, don't think I have the skills either.

I will still take a shot at wet sanding to see if I can make any improvement. If so, I have guy who can do that to the entire hull.

I pull it 2 weeks from today, so we'll know more then.


-Dave
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Pretty sure Corvettes are repainted periodically, I know some high end yachts come from the factory with paint on them and aircraft with molded composite parts are painted as well. No finish lasts forever, including gelcoat, when exposed to the elements.
 

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303, somehow that sounds familiar.

I may pick some up, I don't think I have anything to lose.

Sportster, have you tried the Interlux 1 part polyurethane topside paint? Supposedly, you can get a mirror finish with a brush on and tip off.


-Dave
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Paint does hide some surface imperfections but I'm pretty sure you're going to need to sand out and probably fill some divots in that gel coat depending on how good you want it to look. Some of those brush applied paints actually do lay down pretty well if thinned as per instructions and based on the atmospheric conditions.

I guess you're not expecting a factory quality refinish job, just want to make it look a little better. The thing about most of these paints is they can be removed if/when you decide they aren't doing the job, so probably no harm done.

I've seen some amazing work done with just house paint and a roller though, so I won't say it can't look good.

To answer your question directly, I have not worked with the Interlux coatings myself but the few accounts I've encountered had good reviews. I think one of the high end yacht builders uses Interlux products, maybe more than one?
 
I will see if I can get some more pix while it is still on the lift. That won't be until later this week, though.


-Dave
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I just can't tell much detail from the original picture. Several years ago a friend of mine had a Mariah that was exhibiting similar gelcoat issues, and we had some success with sanding them out (very carefully)...but I don't know if yours and his are the same problem.
 
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