? engine relief valve on 717 rotax and a concern on one of the crafts

[gt2003]

No, that's what is so frustrating. I ran the engine for 3-4 thirty second spurts to get in the sta-bil, fogged the engine after that then clamped the hoses, ran in the anti-freeze until I saw it in the drain hose then unclamped. I did all of that DRY! This year is the first year I've run them on the hose.

Hmm, last year was the first year we had them. When we bought them, the guy started them up so we'd know they ran. However, being a newbie I never thought to feel for things like bulging cylinders or what exactly to check. I never looked under the seat while they were running either last year while they were in the water. I wonder if we got "duped" and this problem was present when we bought them. If so, could they have run for a season provided the leaks were very, very minimal? We took them on a few long runs but mostly just little 5 or 10 minute trips to play a little bit then head back to the boat to chill.

Also, do these things have an hour meter?

 

[Dr Honda]

Those cyl look like crap to be honest...I have a motor here with 240hrs and you can still see the crosshatch.

You can get good used ones a lot cheaper. I just sold my last good pair of 720 cyls for $250. I may have some that need a bore even cheaper.

Did you happen to do the antifreeze then hook up the hose to fog the motor?

I just dont understand how that much water could have still been in those cylinders. They had to have been full of water to do that damage I would think....?

Dr honda was the cyl in your picture full of water?

I had a 97 GSX a few years back literally FULL of water; WB, pipe, engine, waterjackets, EVERYTHING. It had been sunk then sat thru 2 MN winters if I got the owners story right. The cases were cracked, but the cyl only cracked the parts that tie the inner to the outer part.

Depending on the ski, and how the drain hose is routed... they will stay mostly full. The engine I posted was about half full. But... I'm with you on this one... looks like it was hooked up to the hose, after the anti-freeze was put in... and it was all flushed away.

When I winterize... I either pop the drain hose off, or I give it a shot of compressed air before putting the anti-freeze in.


Look for a good used set of jugs, and you can be on the water in no time.

Once you get the piston and jugs off, make sure that the crank and rod bearings feel good. When the engines freeze like this... when they thaw... water can get into the lower half, and destroy the bearings. If they feel rough... you will need to do a full rebuild.

 

[gt2003]

I guess we were posting at the same time. I fogged it when running it DRY. This year is the first time I've EVER hooked up the hose to it. See my post above and see what you think

 

[Dr Honda]

No, that's what is so frustrating. I ran the engine for 3-4 thirty second spurts to get in the sta-bil, fogged the engine after that then clamped the hoses, ran in the anti-freeze until I saw it in the drain hose then unclamped. I did all of that DRY! This year is the first year I've run them on the hose.

Hmm, last year was the first year we had them. When we bought them, the guy started them up so we'd know they ran. However, being a newbie I never thought to feel for things like bulging cylinders or what exactly to check. I never looked under the seat while they were running either last year while they were in the water. I wonder if we got "duped" and this problem was present when we bought them. If so, could they have run for a season provided the leaks were very, very minimal? We took them on a few long runs but mostly just little 5 or 10 minute trips to play a little bit then head back to the boat to chill.

Also, do these things have an hour meter?

If you didn't water test them... yes... they could have been busted already.


As far as the hour meter... yes, they both have them, but you have to go to a dealer to have it checked. (They can read the MPEM)

 

[gt2003]

^*($^)($%*(&)@Y*)$#@&Y)*@%&)@*&) Oh, I hate to even think that he might have sold them to us in this condition. It would also explain why the leaks are there even after winterizing. With the above mentioned useage do you think we could have run them all summer without any problems? Thanks again and again!

 

[LouDoo]

My 2 cents worth, I think, due to the amount of rust inside the cylinders, that they were probably already bulged when you bought the skii's. Most parts in the upper part of the engine are aluminum and it just looks like a lot of rust. You seem to be a really good guy, but bad things happen to good people. I feel for you.

Lou

 

[gt2003]

Well Lou, you're right. Things happen and although I'm not real happy about it the fact is I'm OK, my fiancee is OK and so are our kids and families. So, in the whole scheme of things it's not too big of a deal.

I'm also lucky to have a co-worker whose husband is a mechanic at a motorcycle/ATV/Sea-doo dealership. He's wanting to go out on his own and already does quite a bit of work at his house. So, I'm sure I won't be in "as deep" as I would if I was paying an actual shop to do the work. I'll get a hold of him tomorrow and see what's it's going to run me.

If anyone knows where I can get a couple of good used cylinders, let me know. From looking at the diagrams, the left and right ones are the same. It would be nice to pay way less than retail for them. Thanks again folks for all your input. Hopefully the pain won't be too bad!

 

[Chester]

Those cylinder walls look terrible! Did you forget to use fogging oil when you winterized?
I might have a pair of good used cylinders, I'll have to check.

Chester

 

[Gismo]

Not got any advice to offer, but, wow, i feel your pain and has given me a lot of points to check when i buy my first machine.
Hope you get it fixed up, at least you'll have 2 decent Doo's

 

[gt2003]

I fogged the heck out of 'em! I didn't quit fogging until good, white, billowing smoke was coming out the exhaust. It took a good 2 minutes for the fogging oil to burn off this year when I restarted them. Now, unfortunately, I have absolutely no idea what the previous owner did. Very possibly not much from what we're finding! I can't imagine how well they'll run once they are fixed!

 

[gt2003]

Now questions on the re-build. Here's what I'm thinking. Since I'm going to have to replace one cylinder on each craft, I'm thinking of going ahead and removing and re-honing the good one (having it done, sorry) then having the piston rings changed on it too ( is that how it's done? ). That way they'll both be "tight" and have really good compression. I know that piston is rusted up. Will it need to be replaced or just honed/shaped up? I suppose it's prudent to go ahead and rebuild the top end now since it's apart. Does that make sense?

Is it feasible to pack the cylinders then ship them to someone like fullboreonline.com where they do all the sizing work then send them back with a full top end re-build kit? If so, give me some advice on who to use. Thanks