Crankshaft Position Sensor testing

[Username Invalid]

When testing the Cranshaft Position Sensor, is testing resistance enough to determine it’s bad?

I am not well versed with electrical components and I do not have a good understanding of how to use a multimeter without watching a slew of YouTube videos on the process. I have a new sensor, which I assume is good and one on the boat that requires me to pull the stator (looks like a bigger job than I wanted). I tested the old sensor on the engine and a new sensor in my garage. These are my results.

Old sensor on the engine (engine off):
200 ohms setting - 1
2000 ohms setting - 1
20k ohms setting - 1
200k setting - 1
2000k setting - .68

New sensor in my garage:
200 ohms setting - 1
2000 ohms setting - 963
20k ohms setting - .96
200k setting - .9
2000k setting - 001

It appears to me that the sensor is bad. Can someone confirm this based on the above, or do I need to do more testing? I’m squeamish about probing electrical components on a running boat because I’ve fried multimeters before (not being well versed in using them). I also don’t want to cook electrical components on the boat and create more issues.

The reason I am testing the crankshaft position sensor is because the port engine starts on first fire up, but refuses to start after. When it does run, it stumbles and sounds like it’s misfiring.

 

[ODavis]

To test the CPS, ti is only a resistance measurement while the engine is off and un-powered. According to the vehicle shop manual, for the 4-tec, the resistance measurement should be between 190-290 ohms. If not then the CPS should be replaced. It's on pg 99 of the Sportster/Challenger 4-tec manual.

Your multi-meter should be set 2000 ohms based on your posting. It should then read between 190 and 290 ohms. If it does not fall in between those parameters then it should be replaced. Based on your old sensor engine off, your sensor is bad. But so is the new one in your garage.

I would test them again. I would also test the CAPS, Cam position sensor. That's a voltage reading on pg 100 of the vehicle manual.

 

[Username Invalid]

Thank you for your reply. I greatly appreciate it. I’m now concerned about my replacement sensor being good or not, because I don’t want to go through all of the work replacing a bad sensor with another bad sensor. I will likely return it for a replacement.

With regards to the camshaft position sensor, I swapped my starboard and port engine sensors and it did not change the issues I’ve been having.

I need to get a manual. Is there a hard copy version of the manual? I haven’t been able to find one. I find it easier to use than a digital version.

 

[ODavis]

Same here, I still like paper for things like this.

My Challenger is a 2005 so the links are for a 2005, but here they are.

The first link is for the main manual that covers the t-shooting and sensor resistance values.
Sea-Doo 2005 and 2006 B-grade Shop Repair Service Manual 219100221 | eBay

This one is referenced by the first manual for detail on the 4-tec engine mechanics.
Sea-Doo 2005 4-Tec Rotax 1503 Engine Service Shop Repair Manual 219100214 | eBay