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Crankcase question
- Thread starter ace422
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68ragtop
Well-Known Member
I assume your talking abut the crankcase with the cylinders & pistons removed? What happened to the top end?
Was it worn, it did something fail? If its a failure of any sort I would split the halves of the case & clean it all up. then you can inspect things better & avoid future failure. Any debris left in the bottom of the case & it might as well be sitting on top of the pistons when you put it together, because thats where its going to be sitting soon enough. Ticking time bomb so to speak.
If your just talking about 2 stroke oil & the top end was clean, I would not be too worried, very common for oil to form a small "puddle" in the bottom of the case.
Do you have any pictures?
Was it worn, it did something fail? If its a failure of any sort I would split the halves of the case & clean it all up. then you can inspect things better & avoid future failure. Any debris left in the bottom of the case & it might as well be sitting on top of the pistons when you put it together, because thats where its going to be sitting soon enough. Ticking time bomb so to speak.
If your just talking about 2 stroke oil & the top end was clean, I would not be too worried, very common for oil to form a small "puddle" in the bottom of the case.
Do you have any pictures?
ace422
Active Member
Sorry for the picture but its hard to get a clean photo in there. The top end is fine, I took it apart because the motor would not spin freely, turned out to be a problem with the rotary valve cover, corrosion has bowed out the plate. I wanted to split the case and clean everything good but could not get the flywheel off. The other picture is showing the salt deposit I need to clean also. Ski has not run since 08, got it from a buddy. I'm new to the ski world so have lots of questions.
68ragtop
Well-Known Member
If you've got it that far I would split it. For the little I can see, it looks kinda nasty in there. The mag side flywheel should not be too bad to pull. Can be done with an automotive harmonic balance puller. You don't have to pull the PTO side, but If it was me I would anyway & change both side crank seals. I know, it all adds up but worth the trouble when you have it that far apart IMO.
Blktegra
New Member
Spray it up, heat it around the crank sount they get seized on there and can be a PITA. But def split the cases, brake cleaner down there may dry out the seals. Rotax motor is really quite simple to work on.
68ragtop
Well-Known Member
I made a 4' long metal bracket that mounts to the mag side flywheel to keep it from turning. Then use the spline tool on the PTO end. You can also use a pipe wrench, but its going to leave some marks. They can be really tight. I had one that I used a pipe wrench, & a pipe extension on that.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Don't use water... it will cause other issues. (like surface rust) AND don't use a harsh solvent... that could kill the seals.
As others said... split it, and clean it properly. Trying to "Rinse" it out, could put junk into the seals, and kill them. Then... you get a melt-down. OR>.. you can force junk into the bearings, and they will soon eat themselves.
IF... you want to do it half-ass'ed... then use kerosene, or diesel fuel. It's a low flammability risk, and it will dissolve oil, and varnish.
As others said... split it, and clean it properly. Trying to "Rinse" it out, could put junk into the seals, and kill them. Then... you get a melt-down. OR>.. you can force junk into the bearings, and they will soon eat themselves.
IF... you want to do it half-ass'ed... then use kerosene, or diesel fuel. It's a low flammability risk, and it will dissolve oil, and varnish.
73Diesel
Active Member
Another option to get the fly wheel off is put the puller on and tighten it up. Like your trying to get it off. Then hit the bolt in the center with a metal hammer. The shock from hitting it will go down the bolt and into the crank and should get the fly wheel to "pop" off. Ive done this several times on fly wheel that were stuck to where i thought the puller would break first. Just my option/opinion.
73Diesel
Active Member
No. I didnt use heat. And you just have to be careful. I had only 1 fly off doing it that way. You could always rap the flywheel and puller in a towel and only have the bolt that your going to hit exposed. That way when it pops it acts like dead weight and just drops. Do that on the floor so the flywheel doens't fall off of your bench. Like I said. Its only my opinion.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
If you don't have a threaded MAG (for a bolt puller) don't try to use those little 6mm holes that hold the MAG cup on. The proper puller is only $20, and you can have it in 2~3 days.
http://www.shopsbt.com/jetski_repair_tools/80-107.html
http://www.shopsbt.com/jetski_repair_tools/80-107.html
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