I've found these plugs corroded out on my tuned pipe ('94 XP Seadoo) I assume these are like Welch plugs. Can I get them rewelded, should i just fill them with JB weld[/ATTACH]. Should they be removed and replaced or just welded over. Are they indicitive that the rest of the pipe is stuffed? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
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Corroded tuned pipe
- Thread starter biggsy
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Very Common....
This is very common for our tuned pipes, especiall after they get a little age on them.
Because your riding is mostly salt water, your pipes will develop these leaks quicker than those in fresh water.
All water has minerals in it. We use reverse osmosis and other mechanical devices to remove all mineral compounds from water for purity. This is usually used in the medical environment.
Salt water is loaded with mineral compounds such as sodium chloride. There is about 1.2 ounces of salt to every litre of salt water. Also present is magnesium, sulfate calcium, potassium, bromide, and of course, hydrogen.
Why you see this most in your tuned pipe than anywhere else? Science; when water is heated, the ions in these minerals become charged and are looking for something to grab (like magnetics) onto. Leaching in this form is explained in the Wikipedia as; a widely used extractive metallurgy technique which converts metals into soluble salts in aqueous media. When the water is heated, the salts solidify and stick to the inside of the cast aluminum of your tuned pipe. If it were left underwater, the problem with the holes would not occur. The corrosive nature of salt happens when the pipe is left to dry.
Repair? There are many forum members who have had these replaced, re-welded. Thats one way to do it. I think a member recently said it cost about $100 bucks. My tuned pipe on my 787 started leaking about three years ago. I removed mine, used a dremel tool and a burr bit and grinded it all down to bare metal again. There were a couple areas a bit too big for just stuffing it with JB weld, so I got a piece of aluminum screen and laid it out over the hole, then used the JB weld to create my patch work.
I just removed this engine to rework the upper end and while sand blasting my parts for painting, I noticed the area I repaired with the JB weld, still looks like its got a really good bond. Still not leaking.
Now keep in mind, if you do patch with JB weld, it's all about preparation. You have got to take this down to the good, bare metal. All the white chloride crystals have to be removed. Then, don't sand it out smooth, take that burring tool and scuff the surface up so that it's really rough. This is the best way to get a good bond. When finished, wait for 24 to 36 hours before you work it out smooth for painting.
I used that newer JB weld that comes in a tootsie roll like stuff. It's two parts. A base and a hardner.
My GTX did the same last year, I patched it too.
Either way is good. I just figured since it has low pressure, low temperature water in it, why pay the big money on something I can do myself.
Be aware, because of the nature of the sodium in salt water, it's going to happen again, at some point...........:cheers:
This is very common for our tuned pipes, especiall after they get a little age on them.
Because your riding is mostly salt water, your pipes will develop these leaks quicker than those in fresh water.
All water has minerals in it. We use reverse osmosis and other mechanical devices to remove all mineral compounds from water for purity. This is usually used in the medical environment.
Salt water is loaded with mineral compounds such as sodium chloride. There is about 1.2 ounces of salt to every litre of salt water. Also present is magnesium, sulfate calcium, potassium, bromide, and of course, hydrogen.
Why you see this most in your tuned pipe than anywhere else? Science; when water is heated, the ions in these minerals become charged and are looking for something to grab (like magnetics) onto. Leaching in this form is explained in the Wikipedia as; a widely used extractive metallurgy technique which converts metals into soluble salts in aqueous media. When the water is heated, the salts solidify and stick to the inside of the cast aluminum of your tuned pipe. If it were left underwater, the problem with the holes would not occur. The corrosive nature of salt happens when the pipe is left to dry.
Repair? There are many forum members who have had these replaced, re-welded. Thats one way to do it. I think a member recently said it cost about $100 bucks. My tuned pipe on my 787 started leaking about three years ago. I removed mine, used a dremel tool and a burr bit and grinded it all down to bare metal again. There were a couple areas a bit too big for just stuffing it with JB weld, so I got a piece of aluminum screen and laid it out over the hole, then used the JB weld to create my patch work.
I just removed this engine to rework the upper end and while sand blasting my parts for painting, I noticed the area I repaired with the JB weld, still looks like its got a really good bond. Still not leaking.
Now keep in mind, if you do patch with JB weld, it's all about preparation. You have got to take this down to the good, bare metal. All the white chloride crystals have to be removed. Then, don't sand it out smooth, take that burring tool and scuff the surface up so that it's really rough. This is the best way to get a good bond. When finished, wait for 24 to 36 hours before you work it out smooth for painting.
I used that newer JB weld that comes in a tootsie roll like stuff. It's two parts. A base and a hardner.
My GTX did the same last year, I patched it too.
Either way is good. I just figured since it has low pressure, low temperature water in it, why pay the big money on something I can do myself.
Be aware, because of the nature of the sodium in salt water, it's going to happen again, at some point...........:cheers:
Permanent?...
I'd agree, the better fix is to weld. But, it's not permanent. It's going to corrdode again. With the age of the tuned pipe, it's probably got many weak spots. The plugs are the weakest link though, that's why they go first.
I still would agree with you. The weld is a more reliable fix. I just went the route with JB weld for a couple reasons. Where I live, availability and cheap. I figured I'd try it once before finding an aluminum welder. Surprised me on how well it's holding up.........:cheers:
I'd agree, the better fix is to weld. But, it's not permanent. It's going to corrdode again. With the age of the tuned pipe, it's probably got many weak spots. The plugs are the weakest link though, that's why they go first.
I still would agree with you. The weld is a more reliable fix. I just went the route with JB weld for a couple reasons. Where I live, availability and cheap. I figured I'd try it once before finding an aluminum welder. Surprised me on how well it's holding up.........:cheers:
Great thanks for the advice - it's at the workshop now getting welded
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