Carburetor Adjustments

Are the factory jet settings the same on pretty much all Seadoo mukuni carbs built in the 90's? Is it 1 to 1 1/4 turn out? Thanks
 
I am going to install a new Carburetor Kit from my Seadoo Jet Boat speedster 1997. Do I have to put the Carburetor in some kind off acid solution before install the new kit or just with choke clean is enough? Also how many turn does the (low and Height) needle's will be? Some book said: (Low and Height = 1 1/4 turn), other book said: (Low=1 3/4 and Height = 0 turn)?
 
I am going to install a new Carburetor Kit from my Seadoo Jet Boat speedster 1997. Do I have to put the Carburetor in some kind off acid solution before install the new kit or just with choke clean is enough? Also how many turn does the (low and Height) needle's will be? Some book said: (Low and Height = 1 1/4 turn), other book said: (Low=1 3/4 and Height = 0 turn)?

The depth of "cleaning" will depend on the severity of the problem, I've had some pretty corroded carburetors to bring back to life which required extensive rework and others that were clean as a whistle inside and just slightly plugged with fuel gum. It doesn't take much of a restriction to bring on lean hesitation issues so follow the above advice on what to look for, I'd say.

As far as the mixture screw settings goes, all carbs weren't set the same from the factory although many HS mixture screws were set at 0 turns open from lightly seated it depends on the model and year along with the configuration. Need more detail on what you've got and the symptoms.

If you're experiencing lean hesitation and stalling, this indicates there isn't enough fuel, for whatever reason. Once that's taken care of then monitoring for that brown color center electrode insulator makes for a decent yardstick. Grey center insulator usually spells trouble on the way, from my experience.
 
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Bill, great to see your still around, helpling these people out, getting and keep these skis running. I want to get right to the point. Where did you get this info on rebuilding, jetting and tuning the carbs? Did you take this into directly from the Mikuni manual, or did you get it from the Seadoo carb rebuild section of our manuals.

The reason I ask is simple. If you've ever taken these carbs about, when you removed the metering plate, expose the jets, you'll see the smaller jet has three areas you can see spray (I use electric spray), come up right near the throttle plate. The discrepancy I see is on the "high speed" jet. This is actucally, not a jet. If you remove it, then squirt cleaner through it, you'll find it'a actually a "bypass". The Seadoo calls for this just to be closed, set at zero. Now, if you do, and squirt material through it, you'll actually see fluid come up inside the venturi area. If your not to sure, or if I have given you something to thing about, download the Mikuni carb manual, and it will show the exploded view of that area. It's not actually a jet, just a bypass. I'd hope you don't take my word for it, but please, get the Mikuni carb manual, and look it up for yourself.
 
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The discrepancy I see is on the "high speed" jet. This is actucally, not a jet. If you remove it, then squirt cleaner through it, you'll find it'a actually a "bypass". The Seadoo calls for this just to be closed, set at zero.[/QUOTE]

I think your reference is to the HS mixture screw bypasses the fixed brass HS jet?Mikuni Cross Section.jpg
 
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