Boat runs great! Two questions...

[vilord]

Okay, so I finally got the exhaust seal on last friday, took out the boat saturday. First check: Does it float? (This was the problem before)

Backed the trailer up, no water came in. Yay! Started the engine, and still no water coming in. Double yay!

I did notice that it was REALLY loud though at the 1500 rpm idle, sounds like there's ball bearings in the crankcase or chunks of steel floating about in there. Revved it up to about 3500 rpm, sounds great, just like all the other 2-stroke PWC's I hear buzzing about in front of the beach.

So thats my first question: How much noise is normal at idle? I was thinking pump issues, but would it sound just fine at speed if there was a pump problem?

Next we spent the day tooling about the lake, runs good, but isn't that stable through the rough water, I guess I'd need a bigger boat to change that... tried adjusting the trim up and down, neither position seemed to make much difference for stability.

Got home and apparently wasn't wearing enough sunblock, starting to look like a lobster.
Then yesterday decided what the hey and brought the boat out again, headed up to a calmer part of the lake, its beautiful up there, going to stick to that part for the most part now.

Tried to get on it, managed about 43mph on the speedo and 6950rpm. This was with the trim all the way forward, only about 39/40mph on the speedo with the trim centered or back.

And that's my second question: Is that top speed on my '97 challenger, or should I be getting more speed/more rpms out of it on smooth/windless water?


Even if it still needs some work, not bad for a $500 boat, $50 of title work, and another $250 or so and about 15 hours (my time, not dealer time) in parts and repairs to the boat and trailer

 

[kustomkarl]

At idle in the water you shouldn't hear any metal noises...on the trailer there is no restistance on the impeller shaft and they will rattle some. Check the pump oil at the rear of the impeller pump, and change it if in doubt. Here is how;
If you look into the nozzle in the rear of the ski you will see a cone with 3 screws and an oil filler allen screw.

To change it,
1) Take off 4 13 MM bolts holding nozzle and 10 MM bolt holding steering.

2) Get something to catch the old oil in, drain pan or margarine cup etc.... (don’t forget the nose plugs, the oil stinks to high heaven)

3) Remove the 3 8 mm bolts holding the cone on.

4) Pull the cone and drain the oil out. Prop the front of the trailer up as high as you can to get most of it out.

5) Inspect the rubber “o” ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.

6) Lower the front of the ski and add oil** to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.

7) Wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. Let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.

**NOTE: Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyolester Oil

Check to be sure you getting full throttle. Here is how;

Here's what I do...with the carb cover off...not running of coarse...be sure the throttle comes back to idle position...look to see if there is any play in cable at carbs. Now put in gear and push throttle all the way forward. Does the throttle linkage travel like 99% forward to WOT,(Wide Open Throttle)? I adjust so there is a small amount of play in cable at idle so it will snap closed all the way for idle...and adjust the cable so it will pull the throttle linkage 99% full throttle. If needed I pull the control handles out to make an adjustment there too to gain all I can. The Idle position at carbs needs a small amount of slack in cable only to "snap" to idle.(not taunt) Take your time to get it right. I gained like 5 mph after.

More speed is all about the details.
Karl

 

[vilord]

Okay, pulled the pump cone and only a little oil came out. From looking in the fill plug before I pulled it, it was quite low.
The oil is not water-contaminated, so I'm not sure if it is one of the internal seals? The fill plug didn't have any sealant/lock-tite on it, so maybe it was just seeping out there?

Also, from looking on the seadoosource site with the anti-rattle kit pictures, my cone doesn't have the spring-loaded pusher, but looks like it has a spot for one.

Did this boat come factory with the pusher and is that why it rattles so much at idle?

 

[vilord]

From looking at the parts catalog I am now very confused.
My boat has no weedless system. 1997 parts catalog shows weedless system, 1996 does not.

1997 parts also shows a water outlet running along the top of the pump, I don't have this. But my venturi *does* have the little hoses, they're just connected to nothing.
Do I have a 1997 venturi and a 1996 everything else???
The 1996 pump cone doesn't show the pusher or spring, but it has the fill plug on the left when looking at the back of the boat.
The 1997 pump cone shows a pusher & spring, has the fill plug on the right when looking at the back.

My cone has the fill plug on the right.

Does anyone have a 1996 challenger who can tell me if the fill plug is port or starboard?
Thank you!