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bearing/seal installer tool

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bearing/seal installer tool (P/N 295 000 107). Is this really necessary to put together/take apart the propulsion system to the impeller or is it just one of those things that is nice to use if you have one
 
It can be done without the tool, but the tool makes the job sooooo much easier. It's designed with "stops" built into it, which means you pretty much can't press the bearings in too far, and it keeps everything lined up nice and square when going together. Also, the way it was designed to install the seals, it won't damage the seal surface. I've been doing this for 25+ years, and that's one of the "must have" tools in my tool box.
 
where do i get a bearling install tool? ive popped in the P/N into google and nothing came up. SBT didnt have one either. Or is there an easy way to do this one time without the tool?
 
Auto Zone or Napa will have the tool. Bring a picture of it from the manual to get the correct one.

Karl
 
i checked autozone yesterday and they said they didnt have it and that it would only be at a specialty tool store. Should i check again today and find out if the guy didnt know what he was talking about or just try to find one online?
 
I usually have good luck with Auto Zone for tools...not all employees have a clue, but they can look up parts in a book. Show them a picture and see what thy can do. The seadoo part number means nothing to them.

Karl
 
Nice to have around....

No doubt the tool would be nice to have around, but I've done probably 20 bearing sets in the 90 model pumps and have never used one. As a matter of fact, I just did a vid on me pushing the bearings out of a 1997 GTX pump, that not only needs bearings but a new wearing ring, since the inner bearing went bad and ate a hole in the ring.

I use sockets to do this. Although sockets have different outside dimensions by manafacturer, I use Craftsman. I use the 5/8" deep well socket and extension to push through under the pump. This socket is used to hold the bearings in alignment to keep them from trying to cock sideways while removing them.

Then, I use a socket that is just a bit smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing itself. When you punch the outer bearing through first, it will sit down on top of the inner bearing, holding it's alignment to come through the inner side by the 5/8" socket that holds the inner diameter of the bearing true.

Then, when you continue to push, the seal will come out first, then each bearing.

The only part that is really specific is the clearance when you install your new bearings. The bearing to the needle side must have a clearance below the lip between the ranges of .060"-.100". So, as you can see, there is a pretty good bit of room for err.

The clearance on the outer end is .080"-.120". What I use to achieve these clearances is a spark plug gap tool. The round type with the wire. I have broken one open and removed the two pieces of stainless wire that are sized between the middle of those measurements. I use a straight edge and that wire to get those clearances.

The only special tool I use in a pump rebuild is the impeller removal tool. And if I had a spare shaft laying around at the time I did my first one, I'd have not bought it either. I'd have cut one of the shafts (which I have already done since) to use the splines and my pipe wrench (and workbench) to remove it.........

What I have stated above is my "McGyver" way and if you don't understand how to attain those bearing clearances or truly understand how I pushed out my bearings, I would not do it like this as you could damage your pump housing.............:cheers:
 
no doubt the tool would be nice to have around, but i've done probably 20 bearing sets in the 90 model pumps and have never used one. As a matter of fact, i just did a vid on me pushing the bearings out of a 1997 gtx pump, that not only needs bearings but a new wearing ring, since the inner bearing went bad and ate a hole in the ring.

I use sockets to do this. Although sockets have different outside dimensions by manafacturer, i use craftsman. I use the 5/8" deep well socket and extension to push through under the pump. This socket is used to hold the bearings in alignment to keep them from trying to cock sideways while removing them.

Then, i use a socket that is just a bit smaller than the outside diameter of the bearing itself. When you punch the outer bearing through first, it will sit down on top of the inner bearing, holding it's alignment to come through the inner side by the 5/8" socket that holds the inner diameter of the bearing true.

Then, when you continue to push, the seal will come out first, then each bearing.

The only part that is really specific is the clearance when you install your new bearings. The bearing to the needle side must have a clearance below the lip between the ranges of .060"-.100". So, as you can see, there is a pretty good bit of room for err.

The clearance on the outer end is .080"-.120". What i use to achieve these clearances is a spark plug gap tool. The round type with the wire. I have broken one open and removed the two pieces of stainless wire that are sized between the middle of those measurements. I use a straight edge and that wire to get those clearances.

The only special tool i use in a pump rebuild is the impeller removal tool. And if i had a spare shaft laying around at the time i did my first one, i'd have not bought it either. I'd have cut one of the shafts (which i have already done since) to use the splines and my pipe wrench (and workbench) to remove it.........

What i have stated above is my "mcgyver" way and if you don't understand how to attain those bearing clearances or truly understand how i pushed out my bearings, i would not do it like this as you could damage your pump housing.............:cheers:

do you happen to still have this video??
 
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