Porschephreak
Member
Are these safe to use? http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-jump-start-and-power-supply-38391.html
-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Battery Boost Pack
- Thread starter Porschephreak
- Start date
- Status
Spimothy Leary
Well-Known Member
i'm guessing that the dealer might use one thats NOT from harbor freight.
my personal thought with no science behind my opinion... is don't use it, just charge your battery before you go to the ramp.
I am of the opinion that any kind of jumping is bad just b/c you never know if someone screwed something up in the past and just needs a little added stress to die.
BUT...I have talked with electrical engineers who swear the only way in theory to blow that diode is to reverse polarity.
BUT...I have talked with electrical engineers who swear the only way in theory to blow that diode is to reverse polarity.
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't use one, the starter can pull so much through the MPEM, which it wasn't designed for... Yes I know there's a separate relay; but I still wouldn't.
Porschephreak
Member
I agree about the check before you leave, but this is for after my son flips it over and we need to crank all the water out.
Porschephreak
Member
I was under the impression that the reason not to jump start from a running car was the static voltage usually increases to 14.4 or so.
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
i was under the impression that the added capacity of the larger battery / boost setup was because you will fry the MPEM. the system can and does pull all available juice to start the ski, and if you increase the available juice, the system gets overloaded...
but that's just my guess.
but that's just my guess.
kicker
Well-Known Member
It is the amperage not the voltage that kills them. When boosting from a boost box or vehicle you are adding amperage because you have brought an alternator in the mix. So the actual volume of power being delivered has been increased, which is not good.
It all depends on what electrical engineer you talk to.... In theory a battery will only supply as much amperage as the starter can pull. This is why you can use a car battery as long as it is 12V and the car is not running. We know the MPEMS are voltage sensitive and why a running car with the alternator is very well known to fry the electronics because it is providing 14V.
Just play it safe and stay away from the boost boxes because it is unknown what voltage or amperage they are providing. If you have to crank the water out just use the car, not running and make sure you connect the negative last and remove it first.
PS: never let the magic smoke out of any electronics.
Just play it safe and stay away from the boost boxes because it is unknown what voltage or amperage they are providing. If you have to crank the water out just use the car, not running and make sure you connect the negative last and remove it first.
PS: never let the magic smoke out of any electronics.
Porschephreak
Member
Exactly, I have been doing car audio for over 10 years and I think of Amperage as available energy and Voltage as the pressure of the energy.
When I was younger and even dumber than I am now, I used a jump box to start my 96GTI. I fried the MPEM, it's been about 10 years ago, I've got the receipt from Riva MS taped to the wall in the garage to remind me. Back then you could get new ones it was $400.00+.
Lou
Lou
The other thing that kills VTS is also a MPEM killer...water. If you look at many VTS the housing has broken away from the potting, allowing water to get down to the circuit board level. The same is true with MPEMs. Over time the potting can break away from the plastic, leaving a gap for water to get in. On grey boxes is isnt an issue unless water gets in there, but panel mpems...
Some jerk on Ebay (big name seller tons of feedback) last week sold me a 97 GSX MPEM he claimed had no way of testing and wanted to sell as is. I opened the box and before I even got it to the testing bench knew it wasnt going to work. Potting was broken away from the edge 75% of the way around. Sure as snot, totally dead. Fuses dont blow.
I warned him ebay sides with the buyer 100% of the time regardless of how much he wanted to hide behind "its as-is" and not to sell it to me if he knew it was broken. It will take a month of BS but I will be getting my money back.
Some jerk on Ebay (big name seller tons of feedback) last week sold me a 97 GSX MPEM he claimed had no way of testing and wanted to sell as is. I opened the box and before I even got it to the testing bench knew it wasnt going to work. Potting was broken away from the edge 75% of the way around. Sure as snot, totally dead. Fuses dont blow.
I warned him ebay sides with the buyer 100% of the time regardless of how much he wanted to hide behind "its as-is" and not to sell it to me if he knew it was broken. It will take a month of BS but I will be getting my money back.
SabrToothSqrl
Well-Known Member
I can vouche for tonka.
I sell as is if I can't test, buts offer a refund of it doesn't work.
I sell as is if I can't test, buts offer a refund of it doesn't work.
I have no issue with it...thats the bonus of selling to people on the forums...much less chance of a guy who thinks they can send me their broken one.
Not that it matters anymore. I am able to "mark" DESS mpems internally with my programmer.
Not that it matters anymore. I am able to "mark" DESS mpems internally with my programmer.
black charger
Member
Why not just carry around a fully charged battery in your tool box.it's small and not very heavy.And no need for any worries.
- Status
