Any idea what happened to this 4-Tec 215?

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svtjoe98

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Hey guys,

I picked up a project 2005 Challenger 180 jet boat for next to nothing. I knew the engine was probably toast when I picked it up and it's been confirmed by these pictures.

I am pulling the engine and I'm checking out a used engine from a 2005 RXT next week. I plan on popping the new engine in and getting this boat going.

I purchased the boat from Mississippi and I believe it has extreme low hours on it. The hull is in mint condition and there is very little rust / wear on the pump. I believe it has been used in mostly fresh water..

What happened to this thing? Intercooler leak? The piston towards the PTO is cracked / missing (I'm pulling the head today). The middle cylinder had 120psi and the front had 90psi.

This looks like sand...

Also, if the replacement engine doesn't check out.. can I rebuild my current short block with a small bore?
 

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It looks like it sank to me. That motor most likely can still be rebuilt depending on what the crank looks like. I'd pull the motor and disassemble everything. You're better off rebuilding than taking the chance on a used motor. If you do buy a used motor, I would opt for 2009 or newer. It has better valves and no ceramic sc washers to worry about that may have damaged the engine. There are a few things you'll need to do to use a newer motor but not a big deal.
 
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That thing sat with water in it. Everything including the throttle bodies are toast.
 
Thanks for replies. If I can get a 200 hour 215 for $1400.. am I better off buying that instead of rebuilding? Thanks again!

Joe
 
I would still rebuild. You will most likely have less than $1200 in rebuilding and you will have a known reliable engine.
 
I would still rebuild. You will most likely have less than $1200 in rebuilding and you will have a known reliable engine.


Thanks for the input. I'm going to rebuild this one and learn a few things from the forum along the way.


Thanks again!
Joe
 
I put new valves in a 06.With new hoses,sc rebuild kit,gaskets etc.Over 2600 in parts no labor.

whats the dip stick look like?
 
Dip stick looked fine. Coolant level was also fine. I have the engine pulled. I’ll take off the head today and post pics. That used engine is still for sale. The ski it came from was a write off due to storm surge. I don’t believe it ingested water (although charger hose had water in it). I’m able to compression check it before I buy it. I’ve also checked the wheel on the SC and it had zero slip on the finger test.

I’m going to restore this boat and sell it to get a Challenger 230. I’d like to to run well but I won’t be rebuilding it to make it bulletproof with higher end parts. (trying to keep costs down on this one).

Thanks,
Joe
 
Well.. it looks like a valve failed and hit a piston. Engine turns smoothly.. can I get blocked honed, replace rings and source a used piston? I think I need a replacement head as there is some damage from that broken valve.. still deciding if I should go get a complete 230hr engine instead of rebuilding. Sorry for the silly questions.. my first time inside of a 4-Tec.

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See if you can get a core on that towards a rebuilt.Warranty on rebuilt will help sell the boat.
HOLLOW VALVES
That exhaust valve melted or was sunk/flooded and started with plugs in.
 
I would fix that engine which will be your cheapest route. Using good used OEM parts is a great way to go.

If you're trying to keep cost down, I would take that head to your local machine shop to see if they can repair that valve seat and install a new set of valves. You can buy new SBT valves at a reasonable price and they have worked very well for me many times. It may be cheaper to buy a used head off ebay but worth checking on your head first.

The block should clean up fine. I would tear down the rest of the motor and evaluate, post pics. Those cylinder walls will probably clean up fine with a light hone. They may have some light pitting and stains but will work perfectly. The pistons will also be fine with a little clean up work. Even the one that was hit doesn't look too bad and will be fine with a small amount of clean up. Only remove as much of it as necessary in interference areas. The dings won't hut anything. I would put new bearings in the motor since they are cheap.
 
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Tore the engine down.. Here’s the pics. No cracks in blocks. A lot of that rusty film comes off with brakes cleaner. I think a home would clean it up nice. Sourced a clean fresh water used head. Some pitting on one end of crank shaft balancer. Can machine shop clean up that crank?

Thanks for all your help!
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Looks decent and should clean up fine. Crank looks okay from pics and as long as bearing surfaces are smooth it will work fine. A machine shop can clean it up perfectly but you could probably do it yourself. New bearings, new stretch bolt set, gasket set, good used head, used throttle body, rebuild sc, with a lot of elbow grease and you should have a perfectly good running motor for $1200 or less.
 
Looks decent and should clean up fine. Crank looks okay from pics and as long as bearing surfaces are smooth it will work fine. A machine shop can clean it up perfectly but you could probably do it yourself. New bearings, new stretch bolt set, gasket set, good used head, used throttle body, rebuild sc, with a lot of elbow grease and you should have a perfectly good running motor for $1200 or less.

Cool! I’ll get that stuff ordered. SC is headed to PWC muscle next week. Thanks again for your help. I’ll post with any updates!

Joe
 
I have just rebuilt with a lot of advise from ski-d00, choose to re-bore my motor, although I may have gotten away with just a hone but I had one cylinder that had a little rust damage
I put new piston, rings bearing, gaskets, bolts, rebuilt S/C and new drive shaft and alignment tools
All the parts cost me $2200 AUD (Australian) which would be around 2/3 off the cost in USD I was lucky I did not have to touch the head
I have just put the motor back into my ski but have not started it yet a I need to get hold off a ECU

One thing I did find out the PTO cover changed from 2009 or 2010 upwards they moved the oil filter on the PTO cover back around 20mm so a PTO cover from 2010 will not fit later model skis they did this because of the wireless throttle body
This info may help someone
 

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