A couple of questions about my new SPX

[Ralster26]

So I have a 96 XP and I just bought this 99 SPX and it has the grey tempo fuel lines so i ordered some rebuild kits for the carbs and N/S's. But I noticed the fuel gauge is not working and the magnets are still on the float and the float is floating (also have a replacement float with magnets i tried and the gauge still reads zero) Its the analog gauge

I there a way to test the baffle with no mpem? (something about jumping the wires across the plug to the baffle see if gauge reads full) But I got no MPEM, Its out of the ski and it and the 96 XP's MPEM are packed and headed to Minnetonka4me for DESS programming on Monday.

There is a guy that sells rebuilt baffles on Ebay for $52 thought about just doing that but hate to throw parts at a problem without testing.

Thanks guys

 

[Ralster26]

Oh Duh ! the reason I was talking about how i ordered kits for the carbs was because this SPX has an accelerator pump on the carbs and I got the carbs out tonight and the accelerator pump seems to work fine(i pumped it and it squirted what was left in the carbs of fuel down the bomb-sights) and doesn't have tempo lines on it. Should I mess with it at all or are they pretty fool(full?) proof, because I can unscrew it from the body of the carb and set it aside and just do the carb kits and n/s's.


of and just incase you wondering im going Tygon F404A to replace the tempo so no grey lines going back in.

Also does the fuel tank come out of the front? there is sentiment and i want to pull it out and drain/rinse it

 

[Briar]

On a spi the tank comes out the frt.

 

[etemplet]

I read something and saw a video about how to repair the baffle. It is an issue with the electronics at the top portion of the baffle. I only found one magnet on my 96 SPI so I remounted it and now it reads but my fuel gauge still does not work. I really don't need a fuel gauge. I marked the tank at 5 gallons.

 

[JJinSC]

Most likely your baffle has a blown f1 fuse on it. You can test with ohm meter at the baffle connector. Just put one probe on one contact of the connector and the other probe on other connector. Watch ohm reading as you move the float up and down. If it reads open the entire test, you have a blown f1 fuse.

That's an easy fix. There is a how to with pics on the forum if you search.

 

[Ralster26]

Ok great thanks JJ, any opinions on the accelerator pump?

 

[JJinSC]

If they are squirting good and holding prime, I'd let 'em be.

 

[Ralster26]

How would I check to see if they're holding a prime? Can I unhook one of the hoses like the inlet hose for the accelerator pump and pump it and then let it hold on to the fuel inside give it 10 minutes and then pump it again and see if it immediately squirts what it has in it?

 

[JJinSC]

If when you come back to start it a different day and they squirt from first throttle pull, they are holding. If you do not have a bog after a long idle, they are holding prime.

 

[Ralster26]

Ok so no real way to bench test em

 

[Ralster26]

So I put a voltage meter across the two wires coming from the fuel baffle and it reads OL or open lead meaning there is no resistance. Does that mean the fuse in there is popped?

 

[JJinSC]

Yep. The fuse is blown.

 

[mikidymac]

Make sure you are testing resistance (ohms) not volts on the sending unit.

 

[Mickirig1]

You have to cut a window in the baffle to get to the blown fuse. A drimal with cut off wheel works great. It's at the top of the cylinder. Opposite the float side.You have to put a drop of solder across the fuse area. Label the lines and positions. There is a post on the repair. Use the search function at the top right to find it. Make sure you put the window you cut out back in. The gas moving up and down will jamb it at the top if you don't. Buy a new one it is over $100 and they last about 2 years. Then it's the same thing, fuse pops! Fuel eats them up, fuse fails!

 

[mikidymac]

I just started using a utility knife to cot the window. It cuts super easy and goes back together much cleaner.

 

[rgardner928]

So I put a voltage meter across the two wires coming from the fuel baffle and it reads OL or open lead meaning there is no resistance. Does that mean the fuse in there is popped?

What setting did you turn tester too?