99 spx won't start/turn over

[Seadoobuddy]

Regarding the D/C neoprene o-rings. (post #73). If you buy one and the dealer says it's OEM, how can you tell if he is right?
Who wants to pay OEM price for an aftermarket part.....not I.

 

[LouDoo]

It's not a big deal, it's like an 5.00 part.

http://www.shopsbt.com/jetski/76-101-08.html

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/seadooneoprenepumpseal293200024.aspx

Lou

 

[Thumper3322]

Regarding the D/C neoprene o-rings. (post #73). If you buy one and the dealer says it's OEM, how can you tell if he is right?
Who wants to pay OEM price for an aftermarket part.....not I.

I wouldn't give a s**t just need it at this point.

The o-rings that go on the hose outlets on the jet pump is more expensive than this seal. Crazy!!

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Thanks Lou, A difference of a whopping $2.
Yup, no big deal unless one is crap quality.

 

[bigJake]

I bought 2 from Parker last month, the quality seemd fine. AND instead of $5 each, since I bought 2 I got a discount, got em both for $10 !!!!! :thumbsup:

 

[Thumper3322]

Yep... put them on dry. As long as they are soft, and the surfaces are clean... that's all you need. BUT... if you want to use some RTV... use a little high-temp.

I got this stuff, highest temp RTV stuff they had. It should do. Thanks doc!

 

[crisso]

About the oem ring.It's easy to tell the diff.Post a pic

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Jake,
You got a deal! ! ! !
Are you sure it wasn't $4.50 each or 2/$10????......LOL

 

[Dr Honda]

I got this stuff, highest temp RTV stuff they had. It should do. Thanks doc!

Yep... I use the ultra copper, and "Black" in my shop.

 

[Thumper3322]

Yep... I use the ultra copper, and "Black" in my shop.

Cool... I wonder with the left over I can just use it to repair my winter beaters head gasket as it has a leak, instead of $80 for a new one lol.

 

[Thumper3322]

So I'm stuck working half day today (afternoon) blah... was hoping to get up to the cottage early and get working on it. Shouldn't take to long to get the jug off and have a look, so hopefully before it gets to dark tonight I can get a look at it. Will post findings later... Here's hoping nothing is broken!

 

[Thumper3322]

UPDATE!!!

Ok back at it. I got the intake off, took off 2 of the hex bolts on the exhaust (mag side) since only 2 are attached to the jug (pain in the ass, had to use a breaker bar crazy tight), head is off, rave valve out... now the fun part... I pull like hell trying to get the jug off, it doesn't move. What's the secret? am I missing something? Do I have to remove the other hex bolts on the exhaust (PTO) side to allow more play? I figured it would just pull up and could slide it back down after.
Advice please!!!

 

[Thumper3322]

Well... I have seemed to rip everything apart now. Had to take the carbs off to get at the bolts behind them (didn't unhook them completely, the less the better). Finally got the jugs off to find NOTHING! The rings look good, pistons, cylinder, and from what I can see into the crank, looks like nothing is stuck. In the process tho, ripped the gaskets (thought might happen) so had to pull both MAG and PTO. I still can't turn the crank by hand.

Maybe the starter is stuck/stopping it from being able to turn? I guess I'm going to rip that out now and see if I can then turn it by hand. This is getting crazy. I just hope to hell I can get everything back together, when said and done.

Some pics, not the best, hard to get in there.

 

[Thumper3322]

everything off.

 

[Thumper3322]

SO long story short and 2 hours to get one hex bolt out... it was the Fkin starter. There has to be an easier way to get the back support bolt out. That thing was unreal.

As soon as it popped out, I could turn the crank no problem. So it was what was seized go figure. As some of you suggested should have started with it, but with the broken valve who knew. Least now I know for certain the broken piece isn't in the crank shaft and everything looks nice and clean. Just need 2 gaskets and a new starter, and hope everything goes back together more easily then coming apart.

Are WSM or SBT starters any good? Or should I just get one from seadoo?

Thanks again for everyone's help along the way!

 

[Seadoobuddy]

Seadoo may be close to $300-$400.

I bought one from dbelectric.com back in June for the Yamaha and no problems so far. $50 and up from them.

 

[Thumper3322]

Thx man! I looked them up but their shipping rates are crazy high. Going to see what wsm prices are like. Their site says they have a higher level one, basically it spins stronger or something.

 

[Thumper3322]

**UPDATE** Finally got the parts I need to put everything back together today woot woot. Off to the cottage this weekend to see if everything fits and main question will it work?!?!?! Fingers crossed!

 

[Seadoobuddy]

glad to see it will be all back together soon.
Shipping for me was about $10 but I'm in Michigan and you are in Canada.

 

[Thumper3322]

glad to see it will be all back together soon.
Shipping for me was about $10 but I'm in Michigan and you are in Canada.

Thx... I hope so! Ya a little more pricey up here.. but I got everything from SBT including a couple of extra things.

I'm wondering when putting the cylinders back on, the rings, how should the gap in them be lined up? I have read something about there is a stopper on the piston head ring slot or something?

 

[Thumper3322]

IT'S ALIVE!!

After another day of putting it back together and thanks to Minnetonka4me where in another thread mentioned the 'right' tools to use which I picked up, made a world of difference. Along with an electric 3/8 driver and a small mirror.

When I had the cylinders out I put fogging oil on them and the pistons and rings before reinstall. But when it came time to trying to start it, it took nearly forever it seemed. At one point when it did kick in quickly and stopped, the NEW starter wouldn't turn it over. I had to pull the plugs and it turned over fine. Plugs back in and wouldn't turn over, just try and move a little and then it just wouldn't do anything. I would have to take the key off and put it back on to make it even try again. I'm guessing the starter to hot? I gave ample time between all starts for it to cool down, and felt it to see if it was getting hot, which it never did. Finally tho after a 20min break it kicked over stopped and then it would kick over again and went. Phew! It was getting dark and cold out.

Would the fogging oil cause this problem on why it was so long to start? When I took the plugs out they were wet and cleaner then when I put them in lol.

I did a compression test, Mag at 150 and PTO 155-160.

Sucks the season is over, but here's to next year. Now have to see about idle issue, and installing thetrimfix on my bros machine lol.

Thanks again for everyone's feedback throughout this ordeal. Wish I knew about the 'right' tools to use when I started. Not fun with only hex keys.

Cheers!