OK... that's what I thought.
1) Since you had the head off... did you look for a size on the piston crown?
2) Did you verify that the RAVE wasn't touching the piston?
3) Can you move the pistons at all? (just rock them in the bores) If they don't wiggle, that a seizure.
4) I guess the next step is to pull the MAG cover to make sure that the Flywheel didn't come apart, and is jamming on the MAG coils.
If that all checks out... then something in the lower half gave up. OR... the hunk of RAVE got down there.
Tony, I suspect he has minimal damage, he was not able to start the motor after he changed the rave valves. Since it locked up after he changed the rave valves the first thing I asked him to do was pull the rave valves.
O.K. I have a question. I'm planning on a top end rebuild on my 96XP this winter, I'm gonna send the cylinders to FullBore, I'm thinking I'll need to get new rave valves and have them shaved to match the new pistons. Or can you buy new rave valves to match the oversize pistons? Is that correct? I confess I didn't even think about this before this thread.
Lou
Yep... that's why I think the 720 is the best engine. It makes great power... and it has less things that can go wrong. I know the 2-strokes are a thing of the past... but I think Seadoo should have made a 2 cyl, 1000cc, non-RAVE engine. They could have gotten an easy 125 hp out of it... and it would have been bullet proof. OR... they need to make the RAVE system a rotary valve. Most other 2-stroke engines were that way, and they normally wouldn't break, and fall into the engine.
Nothing, makes a sound (clunk and red wire to starter moves) like it wants to but nothing
That was in you thread
The red wire should not move.Is this a loose starter also??
(just a thought)
Ya but the 720 doesn't come in the x4 hull in the newer yearsThey so should have made that 1000cc in the x4 hull non-rave engine, would have been sick!! lol.
The 720 does come in the X4 hull, in 1995 they had a 720XP and also a 787XP.
Lou
So to pull the Mag Jug I need to....
1) take out the plastic intake cover and bolts
2) Remove the 4 hex bolts from the exhaust manifold to the jug
3) Remove bolts, spark plugs and head
4) Remove 4 blots holding jug to the crank casing
5) pull jug
??? This all I need to do, or am I missing some parts? I want to take off a little as possible to have a look. I'm hoping I don't have to pull the carbs to get at the hex bolts on the exhaust manifold.
Thx!
Yep. Sounds right to me.
Marc,
If you're lucky, you certainly deserve some. You can get a gasket set and be back in the water this weekend.
Lou
I also picked up some clear bathroom/waterproof silicone for the jet pump to go back on. The neoprene gasket is discontinued and got the 2 o-rings for the waterline bilge lines.
I can't seem to find loctite 518 (silicone marker gasket) to put under the o-ring gaskets on the head. Alternatives??
Huu? No it isn't. I just got 2 of them the other day. If they are discontinued... it's just been in the last week. If you use RTV and glue the pump on... it will be a bastard to remove later.
Yep... put them on dry. As long as they are soft, and the surfaces are clean... that's all you need. BUT... if you want to use some RTV... use a little high-temp.
I know you probably don't want to wait to order one, but here's a source.
http://www.parkeryamaha.com/seadooneoprenepumpseal293200024.aspx
Lou
They will be new so I guess that would work thx!! But if I decided RTV just for certainty, would I put some on both sides of the o-ring gasket for a good bond?
Thx again Doc!
I'm not sure since I've never used any on the O-rings. BUT... I would probably put a little behind the o-ring, and set it into place. Then, when you tighten the head, it will push out, and around the O-ring.
The neoprene Orings have been discontinued for a few years...alot of dealers are selling aftermarket ones as OEM.
WCSS has them for a few bux...I keep a Nice stash in my parts bin if you need one sent quick.