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99 spx won't start/turn over

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So if it's one over you can use the stock rave valve? I've always owned non RAVE engines in the past, I now see why the 720 is the best choice.

I'll mark the cylinder head with the size piston so the next guy will know.

Lou
 
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Yep... that's why I think the 720 is the best engine. It makes great power... and it has less things that can go wrong. I know the 2-strokes are a thing of the past... but I think Seadoo should have made a 2 cyl, 1000cc, non-RAVE engine. They could have gotten an easy 125 hp out of it... and it would have been bullet proof. OR... they need to make the RAVE system a rotary valve. Most other 2-stroke engines were that way, and they normally wouldn't break, and fall into the engine.

Anyway... yes... if you go "one" size over... you don't need to shave the RAVE valves. If you need to go bigger than that... send them with the cyl's... and fullbore will cut them for you.
 
I looked at the pix...where are you guys seeing that it was shaved? I dont see it...but I also am not sure what to cue on...
 
OK... that's what I thought.

1) Since you had the head off... did you look for a size on the piston crown?

2) Did you verify that the RAVE wasn't touching the piston?

3) Can you move the pistons at all? (just rock them in the bores) If they don't wiggle, that a seizure.

4) I guess the next step is to pull the MAG cover to make sure that the Flywheel didn't come apart, and is jamming on the MAG coils.


If that all checks out... then something in the lower half gave up. OR... the hunk of RAVE got down there.

1) As you can see in the pics, I can not see the size of the piston crown due to the carbon build up. What you see in the pics is pretty well all I can see right now.

2) The new ones I put it I pulled out after this started and neither of them had any scoring on them and the engine still wouldn't turn over. I figured since it did turn over a few times before it stopped, that if the valves where touching they would be scored??

3) I haven't tried that... you mean try and rock them side to side I'm guessing?

4) Can you get the MAG cover off and out of the inside of the ski without removing the engine? What parts do I have to remove to be able to get the cover/jug off?

Say it is just the piece stuck and I can get it out and all else looks good, what parts will I need to put it back together? Need to order this week so I can fix it (I hope) this weekend.

Thx again!
 
Tony, I suspect he has minimal damage, he was not able to start the motor after he changed the rave valves. Since it locked up after he changed the rave valves the first thing I asked him to do was pull the rave valves.

O.K. I have a question. I'm planning on a top end rebuild on my 96XP this winter, I'm gonna send the cylinders to FullBore, I'm thinking I'll need to get new rave valves and have them shaved to match the new pistons. Or can you buy new rave valves to match the oversize pistons? Is that correct? I confess I didn't even think about this before this thread.

Lou

I really hope so Lou!! I think I'm just having bad timing with everything. Meaning new part fix something, then something else goes right after. But I'm hoping since it was only trying to start when it stopped turning over that little damage was done, instead of getting stuck at 7000 rpm.

Fullbore - looked at their website last night, as others said they will do it for you to make them fit if required.
 
Nothing, makes a sound (clunk and red wire to starter moves) like it wants to but nothing

That was in you thread
The red wire should not move.Is this a loose starter also??
(just a thought)
 
Yep... that's why I think the 720 is the best engine. It makes great power... and it has less things that can go wrong. I know the 2-strokes are a thing of the past... but I think Seadoo should have made a 2 cyl, 1000cc, non-RAVE engine. They could have gotten an easy 125 hp out of it... and it would have been bullet proof. OR... they need to make the RAVE system a rotary valve. Most other 2-stroke engines were that way, and they normally wouldn't break, and fall into the engine.

Ya but the 720 doesn't come in the x4 hull in the newer years :( They so should have made that 1000cc in the x4 hull non-rave engine, would have been sick!! lol.
 
Nothing, makes a sound (clunk and red wire to starter moves) like it wants to but nothing

That was in you thread
The red wire should not move.Is this a loose starter also??
(just a thought)

Honestly, I think the starter is trying to turn over and can't (engine being stuck) so the force of that is being sent back down the wire. Just my logic behind it. If I could turn the engine over by hand I would definitely be focusing on the starter... but it is a much bigger issue I think. :(
 
Ya but the 720 doesn't come in the x4 hull in the newer years :( They so should have made that 1000cc in the x4 hull non-rave engine, would have been sick!! lol.

The 720 does come in the X4 hull, in 1995 they had a 720XP and also a 787XP.

Lou
 
So to pull the Mag Jug I need to....

1) take out the plastic intake cover and bolts

2) Remove the 4 hex bolts from the exhaust manifold to the jug

3) Remove bolts, spark plugs and head

4) Remove 4 blots holding jug to the crank casing

5) pull jug

??? This all I need to do, or am I missing some parts? I want to take off a little as possible to have a look. I'm hoping I don't have to pull the carbs to get at the hex bolts on the exhaust manifold.

Thx!
 
So to pull the Mag Jug I need to....

1) take out the plastic intake cover and bolts

2) Remove the 4 hex bolts from the exhaust manifold to the jug

3) Remove bolts, spark plugs and head

4) Remove 4 blots holding jug to the crank casing

5) pull jug

??? This all I need to do, or am I missing some parts? I want to take off a little as possible to have a look. I'm hoping I don't have to pull the carbs to get at the hex bolts on the exhaust manifold.

Thx!

Yep. Sounds right to me.
 
Yep. Sounds right to me.

Thx for confirmation. Wish me luck, I hope it is something simple, but the way things are going I doubt it.
Hoping to go up early on Friday to my cottage to get started on it. I will be updating/asking question around then. I will have to order new gaskets for the top end I guess.
 
Marc,

If you're lucky, you certainly deserve some. You can get a gasket set and be back in the water this weekend.

Lou
 
Marc,

If you're lucky, you certainly deserve some. You can get a gasket set and be back in the water this weekend.

Lou

Thanks Lou...That would be SOOO NICE!!! I just ordered the 2 o ring gaskets for the jugs to the head. The other ones seem fine and those two have to be the main 2 as to keep water out from the pistons. $15 each ouch! I also picked up some clear bathroom/waterproof silicone for the jet pump to go back on. The neoprene gasket is discontinued and got the 2 o-rings for the waterline bilge lines. So prepared as long as it is just jammed.

I can't seem to find loctite 518 (silicone marker gasket) to put under the o-ring gaskets on the head. Alternatives??
 
I also picked up some clear bathroom/waterproof silicone for the jet pump to go back on. The neoprene gasket is discontinued and got the 2 o-rings for the waterline bilge lines.

Huu? No it isn't. I just got 2 of them the other day. If they are discontinued... it's just been in the last week. If you use RTV and glue the pump on... it will be a bastard to remove later.



I can't seem to find loctite 518 (silicone marker gasket) to put under the o-ring gaskets on the head. Alternatives??

Yep... put them on dry. As long as they are soft, and the surfaces are clean... that's all you need. BUT... if you want to use some RTV... use a little high-temp.
 
Huu? No it isn't. I just got 2 of them the other day. If they are discontinued... it's just been in the last week. If you use RTV and glue the pump on... it will be a bastard to remove later.

Yep... put them on dry. As long as they are soft, and the surfaces are clean... that's all you need. BUT... if you want to use some RTV... use a little high-temp.

Then I don't know, cause that's what a seadoo guy told me today. Remember tho I am in Canada, and seadoo gets all their stuff out of Quebec. Just going by what the guy told me. I don't think the silicone will be that bad to get off, as that is what was on it when I pulled it off, just black instead of clear. I think the pics I took show it. What can I do unless I order from the states??

They will be new so I guess that would work thx!! But if I decided RTV just for certainty, would I put some on both sides of the o-ring gasket for a good bond?

Thx again Doc!
 
They will be new so I guess that would work thx!! But if I decided RTV just for certainty, would I put some on both sides of the o-ring gasket for a good bond?

Thx again Doc!


I'm not sure since I've never used any on the O-rings. BUT... I would probably put a little behind the o-ring, and set it into place. Then, when you tighten the head, it will push out, and around the O-ring.
 
I'm not sure since I've never used any on the O-rings. BUT... I would probably put a little behind the o-ring, and set it into place. Then, when you tighten the head, it will push out, and around the O-ring.

I might for that extra protection, not a pro like you... If I'm lucky enough to get that far and able to put it back together.
 
The neoprene Orings have been discontinued for a few years...alot of dealers are selling aftermarket ones as OEM.

WCSS has them for a few bux...I keep a Nice stash in my parts bin if you need one sent quick.
 
The neoprene Orings have been discontinued for a few years...alot of dealers are selling aftermarket ones as OEM.

WCSS has them for a few bux...I keep a Nice stash in my parts bin if you need one sent quick.

Wish they sold me that at least lol. For sure thx!! If I get my engine fixed this weekend, then I'm going to go with the silicone (think it will be fine), otherwise I have another week or more so I will grab one off you if I can. Thx!
 
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