98 GTX LTD oil pump issue

[Grim]

I was looking at my setup and notice the oil pump actuating wire on the carb was not tight. I checked things out and it seems when I press the gas it actuates but doesn't recoil back to normal position, it remains slacked at the carb Anyone got any ideas...is there a spring under the wire guide I can tweak....or clean. Or is it new pump time?

 

[Grim]

Moe info: I took the head pipe off and looked at the oil pump better. I see a little wire down at the bottom of the lever, seems like the tail end of a spring. Anyone ever taken these apart? I assume there is a spring for tension and to help pull it back to normal position. Do I need to take it all off to fix it or is it just as easy to fix the spring while the pump in on the motor?
And if anyone knows on easy way to calibrate the oil pump after I get it done please advise. I need to make sure it is pumping the right amount ......now.

 

[etemplet]

Whoever installed the cable may have not put tension on the spring prior to installing the cable. I just finished the DI and if you don't load the spring prior to installing the oil pump you can't get it to come around because it will contact the engine mount. You can see in the Picture.

All I had to do was gently... loosen the nut on the Oil Pump throttle and you'll be able to cock it enough to get it past the engine mount and make another turn. Then you merely install the cable and tighten the nut. Don't tighten the nut too much. Gently as it just needs to be snug plus a little, Those things break easy.

So as far as adjusting the pump it will likely be very close when you get it installed. The adjustment is made under the carb. There is a lock nut and the threaded adjuster section. Be gentle. These nuts and bolts don't need a lot of torque. Snug plus a little.

 

[Poormanracing]

Use locate on all oil inj hardware.there is a alignment line on the pump arm that should line up with a mark on the pump.i believe it's where the recoil spring is attached to.set it at that mark then advanced just a bit

 

[etemplet]

Here is a picture of the marks that you need to line up. You'll need a mirror and a flashlight. The marks should line up with the throttle at idle speed so if you adjust your throttle cable you need to check the alignment. Good Luck !!

I have also been known to fudge the alignment to allow tad more oil.

 

[Grim]

I appreciate all the help, working on fixing the spring then Ill check the adjustment marks. I have the head pipe off so it should be much easier to fix and adjust.

 

[etemplet]

Check the water plugs (aluminum Welds) to make sure they are not corroded. They will leak. I just did all six on the GTX DI. Fix it now rather than later. I don't like messing with that exhaust pipe twice. Ha ha. Good Luck.

On a side note I did learn that on the GTX the pipe can be removed without disassembly. I'm still learning.

 

[Grim]

yeah, I have taken the head pipe out about three times now (without disassembly). I figured it would be hard to work on the oil pump with it installed and I need to do another check on carburetor hoses. I swear a left handed engineer designed this system.
What type of hose did you use going from the oil pump to the engine block, that is literally the only hose I didn't replace on this Seadoo. It is painted silver so I figured I might replace it so I can see the flow better.

 

[mikidymac]

The lines from the pump are the only ones that need to be replaced and have been known to kill engines. 3/32" tygon fuel hose available at any mower shop and even Home Depot.

 

[Grim]

Well I figured out the issue, seems like when I took the carbs off the slack in the cable allowed the guide to move and it rotated more that 180 so the spring wasn't even engaged when I reinstalled the carbs. I took the device off and figured it out by seeing how it worked, once I rotated it and engaged the spring it worked. I reinstalled it with tension on it. Marks are lined up and all seem to work.