97 Seadoo XP

[rgb4]

I have a 97 seadoo xp with the 782cc correct? I just bought this seadoo for $700 with a trailer. and the guy said that his son tipped it and got water in the engine. But the only thing that I can tell that is wrong is the oil light is on and I'm going to fill that with:

http://www.amazon.com/Sea-Doo-Strok...409713574&sr=8-26&keywords=seadoo+accessories

but if the light doesn't go off then I'm not sure where to begin. Also the spark plugs indicate that my machine is running a little rich but it sounds like when I am taking off (I don't remember the RPMS.. I will look next time) it sounds like I am missing cylinder and then after a certain point both cylinders start firing again.


Any and all help is much appreciated.

Thanks for welcoming another noob to the forum.

 

[1983]

Start with a compression test on both cylinders to verify engine strength.

Rob

 

[mikidymac]

What color are the fuel lines? More than likely you need to replace the fuel lines, clean the fuel selector, change the fuel filter and rebuild the carbs.

 

[rgb4]

I added oil to the reservoir and the oil light went off. I guess my 1/4 is different that what the sensor thinks. I will do the compression test on friday and let you know what I come up with.

The fuel lines I believe are grey. Is rebuilding the carbs hard?

 

[rvaughn704]

Change the fuel lines to Black Automotive fuel lines.
You Tube has plenty of how to videos on rebuilding the carbs. It is not hard at all.

 

[rgb4]

ok great thanks.. so i was listening to it again tonight and the "popping/thudding" sound that may sound like a cylinder missing is coming from the rear and i rode with the engine bay exposed to see if i could hear any correlation between the engine and the rear sound. but it doesn't appear to be linked. ill end up rebuilding and replacing the lines and carbs anyway this winter. thanks

 

[- BiRkS_]

The knocking sound you may be hearing could just be jet pump noise at idle. If you rev up the engine does the noise go away? Normally you can tell a cylinder is missfiring by lack of power, excessive vibration and by looking at the plugs. Sometimes we trim 1/4'' off the ends of the plug wires and re-install the boots to remedy a missfire.

Also its probably best to change out the gear oil in the jet pump. Takes less than 20 minutes and can save your pump. Remove the 4 13mm bolts holding the venturi/steering nozzle, then either 3 8mm bolts or 3 5mm allan cap screws. twist the nose cone and pull off and have a container to collect the oil. It should be dark black most likely. if its white/milky or water, then you have a seal problem and should look into re-sealing the jet pump....or changing the oil frequently. your choice. 75w90 synthetic gear oil is recommended.

 

[sc10rr]

http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=595_602_3&products_id=64 jet pump kit
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=595_602_1&products_id=38
carb kit
http://fuel-line.com/products/1-4-fast-flow-fuel-line-1
fuel line
also i would highly recommend replacing the check valve and pressure relief valve for the fuel tank. mine stuck open and i found out the hard way what happens ruined new graphics kit and turf.

 

[JJinSC]

All good advice so far. I recommend you follow all of them as soon as possible.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rgb4]

The knocking sound you may be hearing could just be jet pump noise at idle. If you rev up the engine does the noise go away? Normally you can tell a cylinder is missfiring by lack of power, excessive vibration and by looking at the plugs. Sometimes we trim 1/4'' off the ends of the plug wires and re-install the boots to remedy a missfire.

Also its probably best to change out the gear oil in the jet pump. Takes less than 20 minutes and can save your pump. Remove the 4 13mm bolts holding the venturi/steering nozzle, then either 3 8mm bolts or 3 5mm allan cap screws. twist the nose cone and pull off and have a container to collect the oil. It should be dark black most likely. if its white/milky or water, then you have a seal problem and should look into re-sealing the jet pump....or changing the oil frequently. your choice. 75w90 synthetic gear oil is recommended.

the noise starts about 15mph and then quits at 25 roughly.. i opened the engine compartment at the same time the noise was happening but i dont think its correlated at all. i have not ridden many XPs but it seems to not be lacking power.

i will change the jet pump oil as well.

 

[- BiRkS_]

Check and grease up your rear drive shaft bearings. also after a quick 5 min run, open the rear hatch and put your hand on the rear carrier bearing. if its hot with fresh grease, replace it ASAP.

 

[rgb4]

Check and grease up your rear drive shaft bearings. also after a quick 5 min run, open the rear hatch and put your hand on the rear carrier bearing. if its hot with fresh grease, replace it ASAP.

you can see that grease zert pretty easily correct? just general marine grease Im assuming?

theres probably a thread on how to replace that bearing on here?

 

[LouDoo]

Is this the same 97XP that you were considering buying in your other thread, if yes I would like to close the other thread. If you have purchased the ski there's no point in getting buying advice.

Lou

 

[rgb4]

Is this the same 97XP that you were considering buying in your other thread, if yes I would like to close the other thread. If you have purchased the ski there's no point in getting buying advice.

Lou

close the other thread. thanks

 

[rgb4]

today i did a compression test and both cylinders were at 130. however. I have ran it 4 different times this far and no hesitation. after the last run. there was hesitation. Bad gas?

 

[hypersniper2010]

I have the same ski and am having issues too. I replaced the carbs with ones from a 96 xp 800 to get rid of the problematic accelerator pump issue and now im still having issues with it, im in the process right now as we speak of replacing the fuel lines and cleaning fuel tank, pick up and fuel selector. I have 1 question if you don't mind me asking in your thread... the line on the dual carbs that T's together is that the return line or supply line. makes sense to be the supply line but on my ski its ran as a return line and the single inlet on the mag side carb is the supply line .... a bit confused here . thanks in advance and sorry for hijacking the thread.

 

[LouDoo]

The line with the "Y" adapter is the return line, the supply line goes to the inlet on the square block of the mag. side carb. I also had problems with carbs. with the accel. pump, never could get it right. I bought a set for my 96GSX, I didn't like them at all, too finicky. I wound up rebuilding the original carbs, (no accel. pump) and using the originals. I thought maybe it was just me.

Lou

 

[JJinSC]

Here is what I have found with the accelerator pumps. They have several check valves in the assembly. One in the pump itself. Some have one in-line and some have them in the elbow at the nipples of each nozzle. The green goo from the old fuel lines get in there and leaves a tacky residue that causes the nozzles/check valves to clog/stick. Most of us hit the nipples with some blasts of carb cleaner and as soon as we see a stream we assume it is clear. These nozzles need multiple sprays to remove all residue. Otherwise, after the ski sits for several hours without fuel constantly moving through them they clog/stick again. Do yourselves a big favor and make sure the whole assemble is good and clean. And do replace the little fuel line for this assembly too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[hypersniper2010]

thanks lou. I sat and though about it after I hastily made the post and figured it out. the fuel comes in the bottom of the mag side carb because the pulse line is in that carb and it shares it with the other carb via the linked hose between them and then any excess returns back to the tanks via the line with the y in it... had a brain fart there. just got done replacing the yukky tempo lines with nice automotive fuel line and cleaning everything along the way... fresh gas to go in soon and then pop it in the lake for a test ride. also replaced the little oil lines while I had it apart too just because...
thanks again

 

[rgb4]

had new plugs in today.. gapped at .023. then ran for 5 minutes then it started to bog down and it quit. couldn't get it started and the battery had enough power to make the gauges work but it won't crank over. so it went from running perfectly to crap.

 

[rgb4]

Put the battery on the trickle charger. Started it up. It clicked a few times like before. Then after 10 times. It cranked over

Any ideas?

 

[rgb4]

Review

symptoms: after checking compression (130) and installing new plugs which are gapped at .022. the engine stalled/bogged down and quit. it did a click but did not crank over. i put on the battery charger and it eventually cranked over.

 

[Strizzo]

you need to replace the fuel lines and clean out the carbs now rather than later. it sounds like you might have an issue with your charging system as well if the battery is dying over a few hours of riding. 130psi compression is enough but nearing the end of useful life for that motor. while you have the carbs off you can make sure the oiling system is in good shape and change the filter on the oil pump feed line.

you'll need to clean the little filters inside the carbs and also clean out the jets and check/adjust the popoff to make sure they are set up correctly. like JJinSC said, you should also at least drain and fill the jet pump oil, there's a good chance it hasn't been changed since new. It also lets you know the condition of the shaft seal in the jet pump, if the oil is water contaminated, you'll need to rebuild the jet pump. this is easy enough but is made easier with a few specialty tools.

you can check the state of the charging sytem by starting the engine and checking voltage at the battery terminals while running at 4500rpm. you should have 13+ volts at the terminals and a steady voltage. if the voltage is the same or a bit lower than the battery with the engine off (around 12.8) or jumps up and down with spikes over 15v, you may have a problem with the rectifier, but that would show symptoms elsewhere.

i know we're getting to the end of the season, but you need to take preventative steps now to ensure that you get the most out of this engine. at 130psi, you can probably get another season out of the engine as long as everything else is in good working order.

 

[rgb4]

you need to replace the fuel lines and clean out the carbs now rather than later. it sounds like you might have an issue with your charging system as well if the battery is dying over a few hours of riding. 130psi compression is enough but nearing the end of useful life for that motor. while you have the carbs off you can make sure the oiling system is in good shape and change the filter on the oil pump feed line.

you'll need to clean the little filters inside the carbs and also clean out the jets and check/adjust the popoff to make sure they are set up correctly. like JJinSC said, you should also at least drain and fill the jet pump oil, there's a good chance it hasn't been changed since new. It also lets you know the condition of the shaft seal in the jet pump, if the oil is water contaminated, you'll need to rebuild the jet pump. this is easy enough but is made easier with a few specialty tools.

you can check the state of the charging sytem by starting the engine and checking voltage at the battery terminals while running at 4500rpm. you should have 13+ volts at the terminals and a steady voltage. if the voltage is the same or a bit lower than the battery with the engine off (around 12.8) or jumps up and down with spikes over 15v, you may have a problem with the rectifier, but that would show symptoms elsewhere.

i know we're getting to the end of the season, but you need to take preventative steps now to ensure that you get the most out of this engine. at 130psi, you can probably get another season out of the engine as long as everything else is in good working order.

what is the "charging system" in a seadoo? I followed the battery cables to the front of the seadoo where it ties into a "black electrical box(is this the rectifier?) " and the spark plug wires comes from this same box as well.

 

[hypersniper2010]

the charging system is a stator and is located in the front of the motor behind the front cover and is behind the flywheel. check your shop manual for better details on its location.