97 GTX 787 starting issue

[Kylesebastian]

Im a first time PWC owner and I recently bought a 97 GTX that has been sitting for 4 years and replaced the battery. After a few tries it fired up. We took it out to a nearby lake and ran it till we burned most of the fuel. We then took it out to a bigger lake where we could leave it in the water overnight. The first day it ran great all day. When we went to take it for a ride in the evening it flashed 12v low and wouldn't start. I took the battery out and hooked it up to a solar charger over night. Next day it ran great again, but when we tried to go out in the evening again the same 12v low issue.

The 3rd day of wouldn't even try to turn over and just activated the solenoid .

I have taken the battery to 2 different places and it passed both load tests.
I have checked the fuses and they are both intact.

I have tried shorting the solenoid, but still nothing.

If anyone can help me out where to look next that would be great!

Thank you,
Kyle

 

[JeremyD615]

You need to put a meter on the battery terminals and take note of the voltage while the ski is off, while it’s idling, and while it’s at a steady rpm. You should see 12.6V or so at rest, slightly higher at idle, and it should climb to 13.5-14V or so when revved... We want to see that the charging system is functioning as it should. The other possibility is a phantom load that is drawing on the battery after you shut the ski down. Do the voltage test first, and if that checks out we can dive into the rest of it...

 

[Ckrawiec]

Sage advice from JeremyD615.....here are a couple other items for your reading pleasure.....you can't expect a '97 that's been sitting dormant for years to be ready to rumble straight out of the gate.....gonna need some TLC.....although you've already got her out on the water....lucky devil....my '96 is sitting on a cradle on dry land waiting for me!

 

[Kylesebastian]

Awesome. Thanks. I have completed through to step 27. I have cleared the 12v low warning. But now it's just the clicking when I try to start it.
I have tried shorting across the solenoid but still am not getting a spark and I cant hear the starter try to turn over.
The battery is sitting at 12.7v. And when the start button is pressed it stay at the same voltage but it pulls 1.9 amps.

 

[Ckrawiec]

Awesome. Thanks. I have completed through to step 27. I have cleared the 12v low warning. But now it's just the clicking when I try to start it.
I have tried shorting across the solenoid but still am not getting a spark and I cant hear the starter try to turn over.
The battery is sitting at 12.7v. And when the start button is pressed it stay at the same voltage but it pulls 1.9 amps.

OK, sounds like you are almost there....

IF your battery RED cable is attached properly to the solenoid, and the solenoid is attached properly to the starter (the other red cable), and the starter ground cable (black) is attached to the battery and all your cables are good.....you should get a strong starter spin / crank if you short the solenoid posts (as that puts battery voltage directly to the starter motor (in theory)...if you get nothin'....the solenoid is suspect (the internal contacts could be burnt/carbonized and not able to make a good connection. I'd change the solenoid and also check the Yellow/red wire connection....that is the signal wire from the mpem that tells the solenoid to bridge the posts......but if you are shorting the posts and are getting nothing....the solenoid is bad. Lastly, your solenoid is grounded properly to your ignition coil? - check that and your ignition coil is grounded to the battery (small black wire) - check that too.

 

[Seadoo_nic]

Having same issue. Replaced battery, solenoid relay, spark plugs. Still just getting the infamous click.

 

[Kylesebastian]

Having same issue. Replaced battery, solenoid relay, spark plugs. Still just getting the infamous click.

Oh great. I just picked up an overpriced solenoid locally in hopes that this would be fix the issue. You've made me lose a little hope.

 

[Seadoo_nic]

Oh great. I just picked up an overpriced solenoid locally in hopes that this would be fix the issue. You've made me lose a little hope.

Will you let us know if it fixes your problem. I'm going to check the rest of my wiring tomorrow then attempt to change the starter, I'm working on 97 xp and the starter is extremely difficult to get to. But I am very new to the seadoo world and trying to learn as much as possible!

 

[Kylesebastian]

Alright so after I bought this overpriced solenoid i realized I could probably just test it by following the voltage. I kept the battery in and had 12v going to the solenoid and 0v out of the solenoid. When I hit the start button and heard the solenoid "click" I got 12v on both sides of the solenoid woohoo my solenoid is good. But the store doesnt return electronics. BOOOO!

I then followed my voltage to the starter. 1 alligator clip on negative and one on positive. Hit the start button and got 12v. DAMN! That must mean it's the starter.

The easiest way to get the starter out is to flip the machine over cut a hole in the hull and then go to town. But seriously it's a pain in the ass to get to. The "rear" screw was a real bitch to get and I found that an actual 6mm Allen key was the easiest. None of my ratchets, wrenches, or pliers could fit down there. The "front" top and bottom were easy to get at with an extension.

Finally after years of struggling I got it out. Hooked it up directly to the battery and nothing. DAMN! That ends my work for the night, let see what the gauge me for, for a starter tomorrow.

 

[Ckrawiec]

Alright so after I bought this overpriced solenoid i realized I could probably just test it by following the voltage. I kept the battery in and had 12v going to the solenoid and 0v out of the solenoid. When I hit the start button and heard the solenoid "click" I got 12v on both sides of the solenoid woohoo my solenoid is good. But the store doesnt return electronics. BOOOO!

I then followed my voltage to the starter. 1 alligator clip on negative and one on positive. Hit the start button and got 12v. DAMN! That must mean it's the starter.

The easiest way to get the starter out is to flip the machine over cut a hole in the hull and then go to town. But seriously it's a pain in the ass to get to. The "rear" screw was a real bitch to get and I found that an actual 6mm Allen key was the easiest. None of my ratchets, wrenches, or pliers could fit down there. The "front" top and bottom were easy to get at with an extension.

Finally after years of struggling I got it out. Hooked it up directly to the battery and nothing. DAMN! That ends my work for the night, let see what the gauge me for, for a starter tomorrow.

No PAIN, No GAIN. You have learned valuable lessons.....always follow the voltage.

You can rebuild that starter (assuming it is still the OEM starter - DENSO brand I think they were).....brush kits are like $20.00 something. Rebuilding a stock oem starter is better (usually) than any aftermarket starter you can/may acquire.

And not to be a bitch...but getting it out is easier than getting it back in...especially if you haven't removed anything else to gain more clearance/working room...sorry to say (but it is not impossible).

 

[JJinSC]

Rebuild that OEM starter or swap it for a rebuilt OEM. Don’t use an after market or you will most likely be re-experiencing those struggles again shortly.

 

[Seadoo_nic]

I finally was able to get to my starter, so I replaced it with a new aftermarket (caltric) brand, and boom it finally started. Now I guess we will see how long the aftermarket starter lasts!

 

[POPPS]

If you have a ski that's starts well, cold and hot, then you can get way with the after market, but if your ski takes coaxing, your aftermarket starter just may not be able to handle the repeated current required to turn the motor over.

 

[mikidymac]

I have seen plenty of the aftermarket starters quit on perfectly running skis and this is why I suggest staying away from them unless it is a vacation emergency.

 

[Kylesebastian]

We are in business... sort of. I put in an aftermarket started and was able to fire it up after a few minutes. Today was the first day I was able to take it out on the water. I had drained the oil lines completely and refilled with the proper oil.

Now it seems as if the batter is not charging, rectifier maybe? But I also find have have no power. If you were to punch it, it runs at about 4500 rpm and goes about 25-30 mph. If you are headed straight it will suddenly jump to 5200rpm and you can go 30-40mph. And continuing straight for a little bit longer it will jump to 6000-6500 rpm and it will go 50 mph.

It you turn a corner and it drops to 4500 rpm it takes forever to climb up again. Where am I losing power?
It had no get up and go. Anything you've heard of?

 

[noviceskier]

drained of all oil and replaced filter right?

 

[POPPS]

Okay, assuming now, your batter and charging system are up to specs, the selenoid issue shud have nothing to do with your power issues once again assuming a Good load tested battery, have you pulled your rave valves, some of your symptoms could be rave valve related

 

[noviceskier]

Okay, assuming now, your batter and charging system are up to specs, the selenoid issue shud have nothing to do with your power issues once again assuming a Good load tested battery, have you pulled your rave valves, some of your symptoms could be rave valve related

iirc the rave valves operate at 4500-5000rpm right?

 

[etemplet]

Carburetors. Raise the pop off pressure to 36-38psi. New Mikuni needles and Seats and the proper spring will get this in range without any adjustment. Most likely your needles are leaking and ski is getting too much fuel and stumbles with the transition. If the ski can burn off the excess fuel it will accelerate if not it will sit there at that RPM until you hit a wave that unloads the prop then BAM you're off to the races.

I'd also check the rave valves.

I have a 96 and a 97 GTX. I fought this with both skis, one not as bad as the other but it was great being able to work two skis side by side. 5 times I did the carbs on both. 33psi on the pop off works... 36-38 works better. As most people on the board know... my wife's ski is still faster than mine. LOL Good Luck !!

 

[etemplet]

You should read my 96 XP thread. Boy O Boy did I have trouble with starting. I don't even like thinking about it but it was interesting. Good luck with your repair now go have fun !!

 

[GGuillot]

Now it seems as if the batter is not charging, rectifier maybe? But I also find have have no power. If you were to punch it, it runs at about 4500 rpm and goes about 25-30 mph. If you are headed straight it will suddenly jump to 5200rpm and you can go 30-40mph. And continuing straight for a little bit longer it will jump to 6000-6500 rpm and it will go 50 mph.

It sat for 4 yrs correct? No where in your thread have you indicated anything about going through the fuel system, carbs rebuild to OEM, etc. This may be your issue, I wouldn't take it out any more until you address this.

 

[jjsinaz]

^^^^^ What GG said Any ski that sat for four years needs this. Faulty fuel systems are the number 1 cause of engine failures in these things. Replace the fuel lines if they are grey, replace the fuel selector valve and rebuild the carbs with GENUINE MIKUNI parts. (I'm kinda surprised MikiD wasn't all over this LOL)

 

[Chester]

Voltage regulator. You said in your first post the battery was going dead. Also, a bad voltage regulator will leak AC voltage into the system and give you thew running symptoms you describe.

Chester

 

[POPPS]

That stumbling/surge, could easily be fuel delivery related as well.