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96 xp

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Well if you are using that rear ebox I would safely guess you are not sending power to the mpem. You can hit the start button twice with the key off and it should turn the gauges on for 30 seconds. If they do, the mpem is getting power and the problem is the 12v from the mpem isnt getting to the solenoid. If the gauges dont do anything then the MPEM isnt getting power and/or ground.
 
Yeah...figured lot of problems coming from rear box. Tried hitting starter twice but no dash lights/gauges

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So 2 of my bolts are rounding off...tried screw extractors, pb blaster everything. ..any ideas?
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So 2 of my bolts are rounding off...tried screw extractors, pb blaster everything. ..any ideas?
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vice grips. its about your only option at this point. in the future if you've got a battery powered impact gun they are your best friend on these things. I never believed it but Tonka conviced me to try it and I've never looked back. make sure you've got the right size Philip tip or allen, seat it straight, pop the trigger a couple times, and it breaks all the corrosion and locktite free.
 
I have a little air powered rotary cutting tool. It has a thin blade that allows me to cut the head of the bolt off without trashing the carbs. Then it's easy to use vise grips once you slide the carbs up.

Obviously this move requires it to be free of fuel in the area.
 
I'll pick one up tmrw but these babies are stuck...I'm getting tired of this Xp already

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Don't give up so easy :)
That locktite is almost 20 years old.
I spray all my bolts down with PB Blaster before disassembly, but like you said, sometimes even that doesn't help
 
Well the heads of the bolts are fu#*d bad...I have no idea how to deal with getting them out

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Turtle and the hare my man, slow and easy wins the race. The real battle will come after you cut the heads off. The white powder if death well be looking you straight in the face. Those screws are going to be locked to those carb bodies. It's going to be a week of spraying wd and what ever else you have.

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well it was a good day yesterday when she popped 150 compression on both cylinders...today not so good. Got to pull carbs, clean/rebuild, replace fuel/oil lines, replace rear ebox. Just ready to get her on the water man, summer is coming.

Are those factory carbs in the above pic?
 
thought so...PO just removed choke and installed primer. Wonder if it was properly jetted for the vortex flame arrestors. Gotta get these carbs off!!
 
Don't know the history. ..previous owner lived on Lake Lanier in Ga. So probably not

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Allen head sockets. Simply the best thing I have purchased to work on ski's with! I use them in the cordless impact and they are awesome.

I have actually epoxied a socket into a hole and let it cure over night, once the bolt and the socket were "one" I was able to bust out with an electric impact.

You also have the option of using a manual impact driver. I use these EVERY TIME I pull apart carbs just because of the pain of the white corrosion of death!
 
I started with Allen head sockets...broke the bit...These puppies are tough! Krispy what epoxy did you use?

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I started with Allen head sockets...broke the bit...These puppies are tough! Krispy what epoxy did you use?

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It is a decent idea, but only a last resort.

I used good ole' JB Weld.

Here was the situation: My wife drove a VW Beetle and had the factory security lug nuts. We got to a tire shop to have a rotation and didn't have the special tool. It was at home. I decided that no one was going to steal some factory VW wheels that look like flowers. In order to avoid this in the future I figured I would remove the security lug "bolts" not nuts. Anyway I was on wheel 4 and I broke the special security socket. I used JB weld and let it cure over night. Worked like a champ.

You should have seen the look on the parts guy's face when I dropped the security lug bolts on his desk and asked for standard bolts instead.

I think it is only a good idea as a last resort. As it will ruin your tool.
 
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