The rebuilder should have bolted the cylinders in right. I wouldn't go tearing into his engine because it may void the warranty. He was probably thinking you installed the cylinders yourself.
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96 XP Waterlocked
- Thread starter Casey1
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Casey1
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Oh OK, I would like to learn how to do that sometime but now that’s a little beyond my pay grade
Casey1
Member
No prob,I appreciate the input and It just reminds me that I still have a lot to learn about working on these skis.
If the impeller and wear ring are in good condition and everything is stock, you won't see 6900 RPM. These will only rev to 6750 +/- 50. You can try turning the adjuster out on the water regulator to gain some top end and RPM.
Chester
Casey1
Member
Thanks Chester, I’ll give that a try.
Casey1
Member
So here is what the bellows looked like when I took the cap off on the mag side which seems to be the side that is leaking. It looks like there is some exhaust juice but I don't know what to look for to tell if it is bad or not. The second pic is the PTO side which doesn't seem to be leaking and it has more exchaust juice than the mag side.
Also, when I was in the process of taking the pump off the bottom right 13 mm bolt just spun and wouldn't come out. Since I am getting another pump anyway could I just take the four 17 mm nuts off the very back and pull the whole thing out and deal with the spinning bolt afterwards?
Also, when I was in the process of taking the pump off the bottom right 13 mm bolt just spun and wouldn't come out. Since I am getting another pump anyway could I just take the four 17 mm nuts off the very back and pull the whole thing out and deal with the spinning bolt afterwards?
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Paul Bretz
Active Member
I agree with matt, it looks like powder around manifold. Probably exhaust maniold gasket leak. Yes you can take the 17mm nuts off and yank pump/nozzles as an assembly. Dont forget to disconnect water and bilge lines frkm inside hull before pulling pump
I may be a little more over the top but I never reuse raves valves, rave housings or the o-ring on the rave valve. Way too much oil, the top cap should be dry. So you need to look at the entire assembly off the engine. The pto you can just remove the 2 screws and remove it completely. The mag side you'll need to disassemble. But, just take the spring off around the bellow, then slip the bellow downward and spin the black cap off, then remove the housing. DON'T REMOVE THE BELLOW. You want to see if it's fully seated on the bottom of the housing. There is no spring on the bottom of the bellow, there is a groove that the rubber seats into. It's all visual inspection you need to do right now. Then post pics before and after you disassemble the components once they're on the bench.
Your valves probably are cut since the engine is bored, so if you are to get new ones, you'd have to mod them. I'm sure the bore is past the first over size. Did ses tell you what they bored the engine to?
Your valves probably are cut since the engine is bored, so if you are to get new ones, you'd have to mod them. I'm sure the bore is past the first over size. Did ses tell you what they bored the engine to?
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Paul Bretz
Active Member
Oil looks excessive. Either to rich of oil mixture, bellow not seated correctly, or both. Are you premixing oil?
Casey1
Member
Thanks for those instructions and I will definitely send pics when I get into it here in a few. Tom did not tell me what he bored it over to but I will ask him.
Casey1
Member
No, I am using the oil pump.
Tom (SES) actually told this nice,trusting fella that this is a "performance engine" that makes about 125HP. What a crock, I hate BS.
Did you see the paint job on that thing? :facepalm:
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Casey1
Member
Well, I appreciate the kind words, Matt. Here are a couple of pics if you haven't seen it. The more I am learning from y'all about this ski, the more I wonder what about the rebuild is really high-performance about it. The paint was still wet when I pulled it out of the box.
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Casey1
Member
No kidding! He actualy told me it has 135 hp.
Honestly there is no way and he is BS'ing you, plus that thing looks like crap. There is no way that ting makes more power than a 951.
I know a Group K Sleeper 787 will run with a 951 but they never advertise power and I can assure you they can make way more power than Tom and they have the results to back them up. They do porting, mill the head, dry out the pipe, change the air cleaner and jetting and change the impeller.
If he actually did mod that thing and didn't tell you to rejet it will destroy itself. If it doesn't need to be rejetted he did nothing to it except sell you BS.
I know a Group K Sleeper 787 will run with a 951 but they never advertise power and I can assure you they can make way more power than Tom and they have the results to back them up. They do porting, mill the head, dry out the pipe, change the air cleaner and jetting and change the impeller.
If he actually did mod that thing and didn't tell you to rejet it will destroy itself. If it doesn't need to be rejetted he did nothing to it except sell you BS.
Paul Bretz
Active Member
Agree. Tom is a heck of a salesman. I have an 800 built by him. Runs good. Im scared to check the compression on it
Casey1
Member
I agree miki because I use to own a 98' GSXL and it flew! I am gonna repaint the engine anyway but come on man! DOn't send a customer an engine that looks like it was painted by a 2 yr old! Tha's what I like about you fellas, you shoot striaght no BS.
Casey1
Member
Lesson learned here.
Casey1
Member
OK, so I removed the pump by taking the 17 mm nuts off and taking the whole thing out. I was surprised by how easily it came out. I figured out why the bottom right bolt was just spinning( I thought it was stripped because I tried to remove it with an impact drill) but the PO (my friend) I guess had to put a nut on the back as it seems the original block that the bolt goes into was stripped out.
I was actually surprised at how good the impeller and wear ring looked.
Do the o -rings look in good shape?
Also, not sure if there is suppose to be this much space inbetween the impeller and WR.
It looks like there are 2 shims on the right side...I wonder if I need to keep those there when I install the Skat Trac pump or will it have to be re-shimmed?
I am now going to deal with the raves...more pics to come.
I was actually surprised at how good the impeller and wear ring looked.
Do the o -rings look in good shape?
Also, not sure if there is suppose to be this much space inbetween the impeller and WR.
It looks like there are 2 shims on the right side...I wonder if I need to keep those there when I install the Skat Trac pump or will it have to be re-shimmed?
I am now going to deal with the raves...more pics to come.
Yes that impeller and wear ring look to be in real good shape as Chester suggested.
Those )-rings are OK but will not be needed with the Skat pump because they do not use the stock bilge system. Put the shims back where they were and the alignment should be fine if it was in the first place.
Those )-rings are OK but will not be needed with the Skat pump because they do not use the stock bilge system. Put the shims back where they were and the alignment should be fine if it was in the first place.
Casey1
Member
Ok good deal! The shims are stuck to the hull so I will leave them be. Also, I buying a 96 XP with a bad engine for $200...see what you guys have done to me? The way I look at it is you can never have too many 96 xp’s
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