96 spx blowing 5amp fuse?

[DOONZ]

Hey guys

Was out on the water the other day, came down reasonably hard off another boats wake, as i landed the engine just died, no gauges, lights, nothing. Had to be towed in, not cool!!!

Anyway, I stripped it all down and found the 5A fuse blown, I know this has been asked time and time again and the most common answer is a bad MPEM so I have done a bit of digging on here before asking this question.
But what I'm wondering is could the hard landing have knocked something loose within the stator setup causing a short??

The fuse only blows when the plug from the stator is connected. I've never jump started the ski, and i've had it a year and a half with no problems like this.
I live in New Zealand so sending the module to "all things custom" is also out of the question, lol.

Any help would be hugely appreciated

Cheers

Alex

 

[seadoosnipe]

Magneto...?

Yes, it does sound likely that you may have popped something loose or some metal shavings that were bouncing around in there, finally hit ground.

Its not an easy task to remove the magneto cover in the ski. You'll probably have to pull the engine.

If you find a clean magneto, it could be the MPEM. The problem with the 5 amp fuse blowing is because of a diode. There was a guy in the forum who repaired these things for about $100 bucks. I haven't spoken to him in a while but you can get all his info in the "buy/sale and trade" section of the forum. It's a sticky.

Hopefully, it's just your mag grounded. If you can determine the 3 yellow wires coming from your plug, you could test it with a volt meter.:cheers:

 

[DOONZ]

I have tried pulling all wires off the rectifier also, and it still pops the fuse (but only when you plug in the magneto/stator plug) from what i've read that indicates bad mpem??
Problem is here in NZ parts are limited unless you buy brand new and the modules are near enough $1000 to buy here.

I'll do what you suggested and see if I can remove the flywheel cover, and have a look, hopefully I can do it in place, don't fancy having to remove the engine. lol. :ack:

Will I be able to see what I need to once that is removed or do you then have to remove the flywheel?

 

[DOONZ]

Another problem

Ok, so we managed to find the correct diode (from Germany of all places) and repaired the mpem without too much trouble. The ski has been running fine ever since, until now.

Now the ski still starts and runs as it's supposed to, Only now, the fuse pops and stops charging. The rectifier is new, so what am I left to check? Shavings inside the magneto cover shorting the circuit out? Or is there someting else that can cause the 5amp fuse to blow.

Any advice would be awesome. I'm about ready to sell the damn thing, nothing but problem after problem with these skis!! Why do they have to be so unreliable? lol.
Good thing I'm handy with a spanner otherwise I probably would've paid more in repair bills than I paid for the ski. hahaha.

 

[DOONZ]

Hmmm just did some more testing on it, Unplugged red wire from rectifier to mpem and ran it, as soon as you connect it back up it blows straight away though.

Surely a new rectifier wouldn't be failing already!!?

 

[Bills86e]

Luis (Seadoosnipe) would be correct that the metal particles in stator must be removed, or havok will continue, so its not just replaceing, its finding the cause
so it doesn't happen again. Once the cover is opened, the flywheel must be removed. It takes three 4" long x 8mm by 1.25 thread pitch metric bolts screwed into flywheel 1/4" (or you'll be into the coils behind it) to pull the flywheel useing an automotive three slotted harmonic balancer puller. Put a rope into the mag spark plug
hole and rotate the PTO in the direction to snug. Then you can get the nut off, and
use the puller, as the flywheel is a tapered fit that is lapped into a perfect fit, that
once the nut is tightened to Spec, its actually the fit that keeps the flywheel from
turning on the crank, and NOT the woodruff alignment key, thats for mechanical
timing. Post the description of the bits you find, we will try to associate where they
came from. Bills86e

 

[DOONZ]

Excellent, thanks for that mate, I have a workshop manual for it, but your description was alot easier to understand. Haha.

Was just hoping I was heading in the right direction before I started tearing it to bits again.

I'll give it a crack once i get some spare time. Hopefully, that's all it is.

 

[DOONZ]

Any trick to actually loosening the flywheel?

It's on there so tight that the bolts on the puller just stripped and pulled out of the flywheel altogether, and it still hasn't budged.

Cheers guys :banghead:

 

[Bills86e]

removeing 720 flywheel

You got the nut off, ok! Remember the Stator coils are behind the flywheel, so use
a next bigger size tap, just dont go into the coil, use a probe for a good position and depth. Use a bigger bolt on the stripped hole.
Now you are again ready, but use a torch to warm up the center of flywheel and expand the flywheels metal hole
around the crank snout. When ya got alot of tension on the puller, tap end of puller with a hammer, It should Pop off!

 

[DOONZ]

Luckily looks as though it only stripped the bolts, holes actually still seem ok, so I'll go grab some new Hi tensile bolts and start again, but with some heat this time, haha. Thanks mate.

 

[seadooya]

shoot some compressed air, but i think you got a bad rectifier, if you unplug the red wire and stops popping the fuse.