96 GTX SBT Replacement help
- Thread starter JDawg965
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soccerdad
Well-Known Member
Yes reused the factory springs, I will re dial in the carbs to the factory setting and adjust the idle screw to get it to 3000, I know the factory settings on the carbs can be off by less then a quarter turn or so... but I will re dial it all back in and the pop off was in range of where it should be
UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!
Well I went to adjust the idle on the carb and No Idle screw.. so I took one of an old set of carbs and put it on.. re dialed the carbs to the factory settings... turned fuel on and all it did was crank... no start or attempt to start.. has spark so it's obviously a fuel problem. I can't figure this thing out and it's killing me Bc I hate carburetors, not to mention two strokes.. anyways I am not sure what to do or where to go from here? I am honestly lost.. I know it's a fuel problem but I am not sure why it isn't getting fuel? How can I trace this problem where do I start? What tests can I do? When I bought the new engine I thought great I'll drop it in clean the carbs and good to go... well apparently not I am just lost.. you give me a Diesel engine I'll fix it with my eyes shut or I can even tell you the problem by the symptoms... but this I'm scratching my head and very frustrated... I hope someone has some where for me to start and I will go step by step with you and give you the answers.... thanks I hope I can get some answers
Well I went to adjust the idle on the carb and No Idle screw.. so I took one of an old set of carbs and put it on.. re dialed the carbs to the factory settings... turned fuel on and all it did was crank... no start or attempt to start.. has spark so it's obviously a fuel problem. I can't figure this thing out and it's killing me Bc I hate carburetors, not to mention two strokes.. anyways I am not sure what to do or where to go from here? I am honestly lost.. I know it's a fuel problem but I am not sure why it isn't getting fuel? How can I trace this problem where do I start? What tests can I do? When I bought the new engine I thought great I'll drop it in clean the carbs and good to go... well apparently not I am just lost.. you give me a Diesel engine I'll fix it with my eyes shut or I can even tell you the problem by the symptoms... but this I'm scratching my head and very frustrated... I hope someone has some where for me to start and I will go step by step with you and give you the answers.... thanks I hope I can get some answers
Yes positive, it was missing I realized it when I went to adjust it and it wasn't there luckily I had that other set of carbs laying around... but I'm hoping I will get a chance tonight to see what happens.....
Doesn't the RES line run from the tank to the selector? Bc if so don't I have
To take it from the selector and stick it right to the carb feed
Doesn't the RES line run from the tank to the selector? Bc if so don't I have
To take it from the selector and stick it right to the carb feed
Either....
1. your fuel pump in the MAG carb is bad.
2. Your pulse line is bad and not giving the fuel pump a pulse to pump.
3. Your fuel baffle is bad and not picking up fuel and/or you have it connected to the VNT or RET fitting and not the RES fitting.
1. your fuel pump in the MAG carb is bad.
2. Your pulse line is bad and not giving the fuel pump a pulse to pump.
3. Your fuel baffle is bad and not picking up fuel and/or you have it connected to the VNT or RET fitting and not the RES fitting.
3. Pull the fuel line off the carb and blow through it. You should hear bubbles in the tank indicating the pickup is below the fuel level. You can also put the hose in a cup and blow into the vent line for the tank with your finger over the inlet fitting on the carb and the pressure in the tank should force fuel out.
Ok un-hooked the fuel line from the carb turned the selector valve fuel and blew in... heard bubbles loud and clear,
Then turned it to reserve also heard bubbles loud and clear turned the valve
To off and very hard to blow...
Now what is my next step? I wish I knew two strokes and carbs better this thing is killing me, I feel like it will never
Run
Then turned it to reserve also heard bubbles loud and clear turned the valve
To off and very hard to blow...
Now what is my next step? I wish I knew two strokes and carbs better this thing is killing me, I feel like it will never
Run
Cliff787
Active Member
It'll run! Just gonna take some patience and some more troubleshooting.
I've had my Sea Doo's for 21 yrs. and they still run strong even after I rebuild them.
I'm thinking since all of the other items have been tried. I have 2 suggestions at this point.
1.) Re-check that the components in the carbs like the clear round check valves are not pinched or damaged or missing. Also check the small bypass holes in the carbs are not blocked by any type of debris and that ALL of the gaskets are installed.
2.) Check the rotary valve clearance with a feeler gauge (I'll attach the test procedure) to see where that stands. I'm assuming SBT has already machined the cover within specs. But it doesn't hurt to re-check it because a large clearance gap will not create enough manifold pressure to pull the fuel into the engine and cause a "hard start" situation like you are having.
This is the test procedure:
I've had my Sea Doo's for 21 yrs. and they still run strong even after I rebuild them.
I'm thinking since all of the other items have been tried. I have 2 suggestions at this point.
1.) Re-check that the components in the carbs like the clear round check valves are not pinched or damaged or missing. Also check the small bypass holes in the carbs are not blocked by any type of debris and that ALL of the gaskets are installed.
2.) Check the rotary valve clearance with a feeler gauge (I'll attach the test procedure) to see where that stands. I'm assuming SBT has already machined the cover within specs. But it doesn't hurt to re-check it because a large clearance gap will not create enough manifold pressure to pull the fuel into the engine and cause a "hard start" situation like you are having.
This is the test procedure:
Ok, I will start by pulling the carbs off and going through them, should I just buy a rebuild kit and rebuild them, while I have them open again? Who knows that when they were rebuilt before being sent to me if something was in backwards or missing a diaphragm I just opened them to Check and clean them out???? And it's funny Bc a week or so ago I poured pre mix into the carbs and it fired up and idled really low... and I was able to shut it down and restart it and it would idle low, but when I pulled the throttle it would stall, then I added the idle screw it was missing and adjusted the carbs back to factory and now it does nothing???? That's why I'm thinking there is an issue with my carbs
Yes, as Post #17 said you need to rebuild the carbs with all new parts.
You know it runs by pouring gas into the intake so the engine, electrical and all that stuff is fine.
Please rebuild the carbs at this point.
You can order everything needed from OSD. If it was my new engine I would also replace the fuel selector and strainer.
You know it runs by pouring gas into the intake so the engine, electrical and all that stuff is fine.
Please rebuild the carbs at this point.
You can order everything needed from OSD. If it was my new engine I would also replace the fuel selector and strainer.
Cliff787
Active Member
Order the Mikuni Viton tipped N/S valves. No aftermarket ones, please!
Here is the link to order the set to rebuild both carbs. Be sure to check the box with the Viton tipped needles.
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=595_602_1&products_id=38
Silly question since you've already replaced the strainer. Was the rubber gasket from the strainer replaced as well?
If not, OSD has the gasket needed to replace the old one(if it's still the old one). Just add it to your order.
Here is the link to order the set to rebuild both carbs. Be sure to check the box with the Viton tipped needles.
http://osdparts.com/index.php?main_page=product_free_shipping_info&cPath=595_602_1&products_id=38
Silly question since you've already replaced the strainer. Was the rubber gasket from the strainer replaced as well?
If not, OSD has the gasket needed to replace the old one(if it's still the old one). Just add it to your order.
Cliff787
Active Member
If the adjustment screw tips are flattened or the screws are damaged in some way. Replace them now and add them to your order. The screws need to be pointed to correctly control the fuel flow into the circuits. So by taking them out of the carb entirely. You can visually inspect them and go from there.
I disassembled one carb and the tips look good on the needles. Now do I replace the spring or should I leave that one alone? I have the whole thing disassembled cleaned it up and placing my order, I will check the pop off pressure when I get it back together
Yes I did replace the rubber gasket in the fuel strainer I went crazy on the fuel system after I pulled the gray lines and saw all the crap they left behind...
Yes I did replace the rubber gasket in the fuel strainer I went crazy on the fuel system after I pulled the gray lines and saw all the crap they left behind...
Cliff787
Active Member
Good man for ditching those grey Tempo Lines!They do wreak havoc after a little while! It's also cheap insurance to replace that rubber gasket. It's only rubber and obviously breaks down due to the fuel and age.
What's the color of the spring? Can you determine it? It can be difficult to see the color sometimes. If you can't decipher what color the spring is. Just leave it in there until you can verify pop off. Unless it's rusty or if the spring back is weak when you push down on arm. You can determine the pop off pressure with the spring. I'll attach the Mikuni chart to review.
What's the color of the spring? Can you determine it? It can be difficult to see the color sometimes. If you can't decipher what color the spring is. Just leave it in there until you can verify pop off. Unless it's rusty or if the spring back is weak when you push down on arm. You can determine the pop off pressure with the spring. I'll attach the Mikuni chart to review.
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