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96 GTX Questions
- Thread starter MC87SS
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MC87SS
Active Member
Parts came in and its back together.
Got 2 RAVE rebuild kits while i was at it so they should be good to go.
Now i just have to find the oil leak, about 1/2 the oil from the tank is in the bottom of the hull.
I guess i will start with new line and see if i can find the oil bleed screw to make sure its not open.
Got 2 RAVE rebuild kits while i was at it so they should be good to go.
Now i just have to find the oil leak, about 1/2 the oil from the tank is in the bottom of the hull.
I guess i will start with new line and see if i can find the oil bleed screw to make sure its not open.
MC87SS
Active Member
Dug into the oil leak a little more tonight.
The previous owner had put a metal hose clamp on the oil line at the pump and mangled it pretty bad. Not sure if it was leaking there but decided to change the line and used a plastic wire tie for a clamp. I used 1/4" Tygon line, wondering if that is the right size as it was really hard to get on. After i was done i put about 6 gallons of hot water mixed with Dawn dish-washing soap into the hull. Drove the skis around the yard a few times to mix it up then drained. Cleaned out the oil pretty well. Found all kinds of stuff in the hull but the most interesting thing was this:
I am assuming this is supposed to go here but ran out of time to check.
I guess i will find out tomorrow if that was the problem.
The previous owner had put a metal hose clamp on the oil line at the pump and mangled it pretty bad. Not sure if it was leaking there but decided to change the line and used a plastic wire tie for a clamp. I used 1/4" Tygon line, wondering if that is the right size as it was really hard to get on. After i was done i put about 6 gallons of hot water mixed with Dawn dish-washing soap into the hull. Drove the skis around the yard a few times to mix it up then drained. Cleaned out the oil pretty well. Found all kinds of stuff in the hull but the most interesting thing was this:
I am assuming this is supposed to go here but ran out of time to check.
I guess i will find out tomorrow if that was the problem.
Looks like the right spot, hopefully no water got into the box while the gasket was off.
Tygon is usually 3/32 size & 1/4 = 8/32 so I would think the hose would be too big but you said it was tight...are you sure of the size?
even 1/8 is = to 4/32.
Tygon is usually 3/32 size & 1/4 = 8/32 so I would think the hose would be too big but you said it was tight...are you sure of the size?
even 1/8 is = to 4/32.
MC87SS
Active Member
I had previously replaced the 3/32 injector lines, this is the main line from the tank to the injector.
Do you think i should switch it to 5/16 or will the 1/4" be fine. I only used the 1/4" because a friend had a roll of it from his go carts so it was free. I can't imagine the 1/4" line would restrict the flow enough to make a difference but if anyone thinks it might i will replace it.
Do you think i should switch it to 5/16 or will the 1/4" be fine. I only used the 1/4" because a friend had a roll of it from his go carts so it was free. I can't imagine the 1/4" line would restrict the flow enough to make a difference but if anyone thinks it might i will replace it.
OK, I was thinking the wrong lines then. But 1/4 is too small...maybe 5/16 like "97" said or 3/8.
there is a pic of them somewhere on this site.
there is a pic of them somewhere on this site.
MC87SS
Active Member
Got it out to the lake yesterday. Ran good but still only 45mph and 6400rpm.
After a couple hours it blew the drive shaft bearing and started taking on water so i had to put it back on the trailer.
In between the rain this morning i took off the seat to check out the bearing and noticed oil coming from the rave valve area.
I just rebuilt these, i have not pulled anything yet but what do you think.
After a couple hours it blew the drive shaft bearing and started taking on water so i had to put it back on the trailer.
In between the rain this morning i took off the seat to check out the bearing and noticed oil coming from the rave valve area.
I just rebuilt these, i have not pulled anything yet but what do you think.
PRAIRIEOUTLAW
New Member
Got it out to the lake yesterday. Ran good but still only 45mph and 6400rpm.
After a couple hours it blew the drive shaft bearing and started taking on water so i had to put it back on the trailer.
In between the rain this morning i took off the seat to check out the bearing and noticed oil coming from the rave valve area.
I just rebuilt these, i have not pulled anything yet but what do you think.
Are you sure you put the Rave valve bases back on right? The hole in the base should match up with the hole on the cylinder. It's where the air comes through and opens the valves. Could be your problem and would cause the oil splatter.
Take the two Allen bolts out and see if the bases need to be rotated 180degrees to put the hole over the one on the cylinder.
If this doesn't get your elms up near 7k then I'd look at fuel. I'm sure you have changed those grey lines but it never hurts to ask. If you've done that but not cleaned the carbs AND fuel selector switch then don't run it till you do.
One question, does it rev close to 7k coming out of the hole and then kind of fade back just a little to 6500?
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MC87SS
Active Member
99.9% sure i aligned the holes.
New fuel lines, carbs & filters cleaned. Fuel selector has been bypassed by the PO and i have not fixed it yet.
Not sure if it revs to 7000 out of the hole then comes back, i will have to check that next time.
EDIT:
Just pulled the back valve, it was on the right way. The oil was coming from the gasket and the base of the housing.
Its a new gasket and everything was clean.
I guess i need to check the flatness of the housing and the jug.
Is it ok to use some kind of sealer as long as i don't clog the hole?
New fuel lines, carbs & filters cleaned. Fuel selector has been bypassed by the PO and i have not fixed it yet.
Not sure if it revs to 7000 out of the hole then comes back, i will have to check that next time.
EDIT:
Just pulled the back valve, it was on the right way. The oil was coming from the gasket and the base of the housing.
Its a new gasket and everything was clean.
I guess i need to check the flatness of the housing and the jug.
Is it ok to use some kind of sealer as long as i don't clog the hole?
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PRAIRIEOUTLAW
New Member
Shouldn't have to use sealer. Could if you don't clog anything but shouldn't have to. When you did the cleaning what all parts did you put in new?
Did you use new gaskets or make some?
There isn't much torque on those bolts I can't remember right off but it's not a lot.
MC87SS
Active Member
New bellows, O-Rings & Gaskets.
I will order new springs and might as well get new pistons while i am at it.
May just get a couple carb rebuild kits while i am at it. Since i have to pull the shaft to change the bearing / boot i am going to change the wear ring while i am at it and check the pump bearings.
I paid $1200 for the ski and so far only have an additional $150 into it so i don't mind another 2 or 3 hundred if i need to.
It pulls the tube so much better then my 95 so i plan on keeping it for awhile.
Thanks for all the help everyone.
I will order new springs and might as well get new pistons while i am at it.
May just get a couple carb rebuild kits while i am at it. Since i have to pull the shaft to change the bearing / boot i am going to change the wear ring while i am at it and check the pump bearings.
I paid $1200 for the ski and so far only have an additional $150 into it so i don't mind another 2 or 3 hundred if i need to.
It pulls the tube so much better then my 95 so i plan on keeping it for awhile.
Thanks for all the help everyone.
PRAIRIEOUTLAW
New Member
Sounds like you replaced everything that should have been replaced that would have "normally" caused the raves to spit oil. I'd check the flatness of the mounting bases and the base on the cylinders. If the gaskets are sealing off you shouldn't get the splatter.
I've see it do that when the base of the valves were improperly installed or when the gasket covers the little hole on the cylinder.
One more thing, I'm sure you have done this but get ALL of those grey fuel lines outta there while your doing your carbs anyway. Don't forget those short ones on the carbs. I've seen them plug up the inlet barbs almost completely and that has caused the low rpm thing in some I've worked on. Well that and the rest of the crap they released into the carbs.
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