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96 gti misfire or no fuel???

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ape1972

ape1972

Active Member
Hello all,

I had purchased a 96 GTI that had been sitting for a few years. I finally got it to turn over but it appears to be missing! It seems to stay running (but missing) if I choke the carbs. One of the carbs spits gas out as it's being choked and one does not! My question is should both carbs spit out gas if choked?

Compression is 150 and I get spark on both wires.

Thanks, Adrian
 
If gas is getting spit out, it makes me think there is some sort of a timing issue. Further, if you really has 150 psi then the engine timing has to be near perfect.

I know very little about the raves, but I believe they are mechanically driven and timed. If they are off, then that could be the issue. Some 2-stroke genius will confirm or deny for me...
 
Hello and thanks for your help. I just want to be clear that gas only spits out when I choke it. I does not spit when non-choked.

Thanks again, Adrian
 
Ok to start, did you go through the fuel system? It is going to need a complete over haul. Grey fuel lines break down and gum up carbs. They need to be replaced, carbs rebuilt and fuel selector cleaned or replaced.

No raves on the 717
 
AdamA96XP said:
Ok to start, did you go through the fuel system? It is going to need a complete over haul. Grey fuel lines break down and gum up carbs. They need to be replaced, carbs rebuilt and fuel selector cleaned or replaced.

No raves on the 717
Click to expand...

Who or where can we get our carbs rebuilt by(some one we can trust to do a good job at a fair price)?
 
Ok guys!
I went through the entire ski fuel lines, carb rebuild, and so on the I got to the valve timing! I had my degree wheel on and was moving the crankshaft for TDC position. When I was moving the crankshaft I noticed the Rotary Valve shaft was NOT moving. I pulled the RV shaft and as I expected it was completely torn up. I pulled the motor and opened her up and noticed the crankshaft gear was not centered. I can also see where it was originally positioned. The bearings are in good shape and nothing else is visibly problematic except that crank gear. My question is how can reposition my crankshaft gear?

BTW the RV shaft was not bent.

Thanks, Adrian
crank.jpg
 
I believe [MENTION=64286]Mekanix[/MENTION] had a similar ?
 
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Mine had something similar happen.

A piece of bearing shrapnel ended up blocking the rotary valve causing the gear on the shaft to strip and the shaft to bend just a bit however the gear on the crank stayed centered and intact. likely because the gear did strip and it was at a lower engine speed.


I would think the crank would have to be hot in order for that gear to want to move.

I wonder if its possible to heat the gear up without harming the seals and then getting it back in to place.
 
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Nope, that gear is off center. That shouldn't be like that. I wish they would have put some type of spacer on those cranks.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
 
Could make something that would hug the gear and not touch the seal and use a press to put it back to center.

I've been thinking about this.

Something like a piece of plate with a U cut into it that would fit around the crank but thin enough not to touch the seal. Then make something that would protect the other seal from heat and try heating the gear with a heat gun untill it expands enough that you can tap the gear back into place by hitting the plate.

Its a long shot but yeah reman crank is the quickest no hassle way to go.
 
I have 24/7 access to a full machine shop and I still wouldn't do it.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for all the input! You guys gave me some ideas so I'll try them and post my progress. Thanks again everyone!
 
Mekanix said:
Could make something that would hug the gear and not touch the seal and use a press to put it back to center.

I've been thinking about this.

Something like a piece of plate with a U cut into it that would fit around the crank but thin enough not to touch the seal. Then make something that would protect the other seal from heat and try heating the gear with a heat gun untill it expands enough that you can tap the gear back into place by hitting the plate.

Its a long shot but yeah reman crank is the quickest no hassle way to go.
Click to expand...

think about it, the seal goes into an engine, so you're not likely to hurt it much with a heat gun. you just need a bit of heat into the gear as the brass will expand more than the steel crankshaft. even less if you can put a press on it with a tool like you described.

still wouldn't bother and i'd go reman crank or reman the whole motor at this point since you can't be sure what the condition of the top end is at this point.
 
The engine itself looks pretty good. The compression is 150 at both pistons but I may reman the crank. I'll keep you guy posted.

Thanks, Adrian
 
Ok everyone! Thanks for all of your help thus far.
I got everything fixed and assembled and of course I have a new issue. I fired it up today and it started but the rpm's shot way up (quickly) so I had to turn it off! Luckily I had my finger in the stop button. I turned the idle screw all the back which helped but still far from right. There are not bound cables and throttle works as it should. I'm thinking needle and seat but not 100% sure.

Thanks for the help.
Adrian
 
Normally a vacuum leak when you get high RPMs like that. If so, you want it fixed as that creates a lean condition which means less oil than what is needed for high RPMs.
 
probably i'd start at the case halves you just put back together. wasn't jetskigoodies making a block off kit for the 720 to check for leaks?
 
Ok guys I think I finally got it!
I replaced intake gaskets and that seemed to have done the trick! Runs awesome.
Thanks again for all of your help.
 
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