96/97 2-Stroke PWC’s from Storage

Status
Not open for further replies.

StanMan76

New Member
I’ve just acquired two late 90’s SeaDoo PWC’s, that have been sitting for probably 5 years. They are a 1996 GTI and a 1997 GTX.

my grandpa bough these new in 97, they were used and maintained regularly until5 years ago when his health and mental state took a hit. I’ve now acquired these jet skis, and want to get them back on the lake this summer!

what all should I do to get these running before I even try to start these up? They do have fuel in the tanks....
 
Also, what is a good source to purchase parts I may need for this?
I imagine that after draining the fuel and oil, I’ll need to replace the fuel lines, Spark Plugs, pull and clean the carbs. Obviously new batteries as well....
 
Welcome to the wonderful world of caring for older skis.....me personally, before I'd start tearing into them.....put a fresh battery in one and see if it'll at least bump the starter......I'd take the plugs out first and maybe a squirt of Marvels Mystery oil down into the cylinders before I hit the button.
I assume you have the DESS keys (at least I think they both have DESS). Once a fresh battery is installed, press the Start button once...if the guages respond....hit and hold the start button to see if she'll crank over. Then try the other one...same procedure.

Then clean fuel, replace all old grey Tempo lines (assuming they are still in there), carb cleaning/re-building is probably in order...then just lots of fiddling to get them up and running again.

Assuming they kick over.....might want to check compression in each cylinder to get a baseline read on the engines themselves.

Others will chime is with additional tips, etc.....good luck and welcome aboard.
 
Those are probably a couple of the best models seadoo made so you scored.

They have been sitting for too long to just throw them in the water or you risk damaging the engines so you will have to do a little work to get them tip top.

Here is my list for inspecting a used ski but it applies to yours also.

I. Going over the ski........ I like to start a the back and work my way forward.
1. What condition is the hull in and seat? Is it just cosmetic damage or structural? Buffing is easy fiberglass repair is not.
2. Get out your towel and get under the ski. Check the hull for structural damage. Check the impeller and wear ring, neither should have dings, nicks or damage. A dime should fit between the impeller and wear ring and no more.
3. Pull the seat or hood and take a look at the engine compartment. Is it clean or a mess. Is it just dirty or is there a ton of oil in it?
A) Put your hand on the engine. Is it warm? The owner might have been messing with it to get it running and might be hard to start when cold. Cold is ideal.
B) Remove the PTO cover and check the drive shaft seal for wear, I s the black rubber boot torn? If so it will leak water.
C) Does it have gray fuel lines? if so they will have to be replaced immediately.
D) Pull the spark plugs and ground the wires on the provided terminals.
E) Try to turn the engine over by hand, you did leave the PTO cover off right? It should turn over easily by hand. If not the engine or pump are locked up.
F) Look at the oil lines and tank. There should be no leaks and if the small lines from the oil pump to manifold are painted like the engine they need to be replaced. If the oil is any color other than golden brown or red it is wrong and will have to be completely drained and is not the correct oil and is not good for the engine.
G) Check cables including throttle, choke and steering. They should move smoothly and easily and should not have any binding or frayed cables.
H) If it doesn't have a battery or it is dead install yours. Make sure you attach all positive and ground cables.
I) If it has gauges and automatic trim do not install the lanyard but push the start/stop button a few times fast and all gauges should come on and the fuel gauge should match the fuel level in the tank. The trim should operate smoothly up and down and the trim gauge should match the position. IF you keep pushing the start and stop button it should beep at you.
J) Install your compression gauge, make sure the fuel is off, install the lanyard and hold the throttle wide open and crank until the gauge stops climbing then repeat with the other cylinder. On 580-787 engines you want 150 psi in each cylinder with them almost exactly the same reading 130 psi is time for a rebuild and anything less or if one is much lower you have a major mechanical problem. On the 951 you are looking for 130 psi each 120 is low and any thing lower or one much lower is a mechanical problem.
K) (Do not start yours due to the old fuel) Reinstall the sparkplugs and cables turn the fuel to on or reserve depending on fuel level (Is it easy to turn might need to be replaced). Reattach lanyard pull choke and see if it fires. IF it doesn't give the starter a little time to cool down and try again. If it fires it will smoke, if it keeps revving up uncontrollably try shutting it off and if it won't pull the choke to kill it. If it runs blip the throttle a few times then shut it off if you keep it running for more than 30 seconds you can overheat the engine and destroy the driveshaft seal.
L) If they will let you water test it great and now is the time but I have never been allowed to do this.

II. Total up everything that it will need to get it where you want it and haw this will effect your budget. Here are some estimated materials costs I don't include labor.
1. Impeller $200
2. Pump wear ring $50.
3. Seat Cover $100.
4. Fuel Lines $25.
5. Carb rebuild kits $100 every used ski needs this unless they have receipts it was just done.
6. Engine Rebuild $1,000.
7. Oil and fuel filters $50
8. Fuel selector $25.
9. Battery $75

This will get you started.

Must do items at minimum....
1. Fuel system including hoses, carbs, fuel selector and strainer.
2. Oil system, filter, small 3/32" hoses and verify correct oil.
3. Change pump oil and check wear rings.
4. 1996 only clean the RAVE Valves and check muffler water regulator.
 
Mike had laid it out very well. I've got all the new parts like genuine mikuni carb kits, fuel lines, oil lines, oil filters... Pretty much every part needed for restoration. I also have lots of used oem parts from the 1500 seadoos we've parted out.

Www.westsidepowersports.com
 
Those are probably a couple of the best models seadoo made so you scored.

They have been sitting for too long to just throw them in the water or you risk damaging the engines so you will have to do a little work to get them tip top.

Here is my list for inspecting a used ski but it applies to yours also.

I. Going over the ski........ I like to start a the back and work my way forward.
1. What condition is the hull in and seat? Is it just cosmetic damage or structural? Buffing is easy fiberglass repair is not.
2. Get out your towel and get under the ski. Check the hull for structural damage. Check the impeller and wear ring, neither should have dings, nicks or damage. A dime should fit between the impeller and wear ring and no more.
3. Pull the seat or hood and take a look at the engine compartment. Is it clean or a mess. Is it just dirty or is there a ton of oil in it?
A) Put your hand on the engine. Is it warm? The owner might have been messing with it to get it running and might be hard to start when cold. Cold is ideal.
B) Remove the PTO cover and check the drive shaft seal for wear, I s the black rubber boot torn? If so it will leak water.
C) Does it have gray fuel lines? if so they will have to be replaced immediately.
D) Pull the spark plugs and ground the wires on the provided terminals.
E) Try to turn the engine over by hand, you did leave the PTO cover off right? It should turn over easily by hand. If not the engine or pump are locked up.
F) Look at the oil lines and tank. There should be no leaks and if the small lines from the oil pump to manifold are painted like the engine they need to be replaced. If the oil is any color other than golden brown or red it is wrong and will have to be completely drained and is not the correct oil and is not good for the engine.
G) Check cables including throttle, choke and steering. They should move smoothly and easily and should not have any binding or frayed cables.
H) If it doesn't have a battery or it is dead install yours. Make sure you attach all positive and ground cables.
I) If it has gauges and automatic trim do not install the lanyard but push the start/stop button a few times fast and all gauges should come on and the fuel gauge should match the fuel level in the tank. The trim should operate smoothly up and down and the trim gauge should match the position. IF you keep pushing the start and stop button it should beep at you.
J) Install your compression gauge, make sure the fuel is off, install the lanyard and hold the throttle wide open and crank until the gauge stops climbing then repeat with the other cylinder. On 580-787 engines you want 150 psi in each cylinder with them almost exactly the same reading 130 psi is time for a rebuild and anything less or if one is much lower you have a major mechanical problem. On the 951 you are looking for 130 psi each 120 is low and any thing lower or one much lower is a mechanical problem.
K) (Do not start yours due to the old fuel) Reinstall the sparkplugs and cables turn the fuel to on or reserve depending on fuel level (Is it easy to turn might need to be replaced). Reattach lanyard pull choke and see if it fires. IF it doesn't give the starter a little time to cool down and try again. If it fires it will smoke, if it keeps revving up uncontrollably try shutting it off and if it won't pull the choke to kill it. If it runs blip the throttle a few times then shut it off if you keep it running for more than 30 seconds you can overheat the engine and destroy the driveshaft seal.
L) If they will let you water test it great and now is the time but I have never been allowed to do this.

II. Total up everything that it will need to get it where you want it and haw this will effect your budget. Here are some estimated materials costs I don't include labor.
1. Impeller $200
2. Pump wear ring $50.
3. Seat Cover $100.
4. Fuel Lines $25.
5. Carb rebuild kits $100 every used ski needs this unless they have receipts it was just done.
6. Engine Rebuild $1,000.
7. Oil and fuel filters $50
8. Fuel selector $25.
9. Battery $75

This will get you started.

Must do items at minimum....
1. Fuel system including hoses, carbs, fuel selector and strainer.
2. Oil system, filter, small 3/32" hoses and verify correct oil.
3. Change pump oil and check wear rings.
4. 1996 only clean the RAVE Valves and check muffler water regulator.

Wow, thank you so much for such a detailed reply!
I did have a chance to look at them last week. Cosmetically, they are in great shape. The seats/upholstery is flawless, the Hull and paint are both in great shape. The covers are as dusty as it gets, but the Ski’s are clean.

inside, one of them does have some fuel sitting in the bottom of the bay. Not a whole lot, but enough to puddle up a bit. I imagine this may be because of the freezing winters causing a crack in the fuel lines or tank. Hopefully a fuel line because I plan on replacing those anyways (yes they are the grey ones)

I won’t be able to dig further until I get them back here at my house. Unfortunately, my Grandparents have decided to quarantine themselves due to their age amid the Covid outbreak, so I’ve been delayed in picking up the wave runners.
The day I get them home, I’ll utilize your step by step process.

Thanks again for taking the time to help me out!
 
It’s probably oil in the hull not fuel and is pretty common on these older skis, fuel would have evaporated.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top