Lovehate
Member
Hi,
I have been a auto technician for 45 years but have yet to work on a 2 stroke car.
I have read many posts trying to figure this out. I will give as many details as I can.
Been maintaining my 96 XP for 15 years. I usually can figure things out.
I have done the carbs twice in that time with good results.
I live in Virginia so it only gets used in summer.
Got it out on memorial day to get ready for summer. Ran fine when I put it away last fall.
It started fine, Idled 5 minutes to get past no wake buoys, hit the throttle, it launched as usual, after 30 seconds it dropped like I was on one cylinder. Puttered back to the dock. Pto cylinder was cooler than mag cylinder so I figured plug was bad. Installed new plugs (I keep on hand) , fired right up and seemed to be okay. Idled back out, hit the gas, life was good for about 30 seconds and back to the dock I go. Nosed it up against the dock and throttled up. Sometimes it would tach up and sometimes it just sputtered on one cylinder. Seemed to have spark so I introduced a squirt of carb cleaner to rear carb when it was acting up, did not help.
I tried for two weekend to figure it out but couldn't. I took it to a shop that still works on 2 strokes, it sat there a month before he got to it. He said they tested it and drove it for half hour and had no problem. I paid the checkout and took it home. I put it in the water and sure enough it did not lose power for the 15 minutes that I drove it, however it was not smooth running except at almost full tilt. Lots of sputtering at idle and mid range. I couldn't get response from mixture screw on rear carb so I pulled the carb and just cleaned it out without any new parts. Down hill from there. It was worse. Pulled the front carb and started to disassemble it. The fuel pump was corroded in side and the gaskets had shrunk. I got the go ahead from the boss to spend the money on new carbs. I bought a pair of titan carbs that were supposed to be direct replacements. They came with an external accelerator pump that mine didn't have. I installed them and the ski runs like shit unless you are wide open. Sounds like it has a race cam in it at idle and mid range on top of the fact that it hesitates, boggs sputters and falls on its face until WOT.
The plugs are wet when I check them so I thought to rich. My seadoo specs say the high speed mixture screw should be seated and low speed roughly 1 turn out. Well the high speed srew was out 1 turn on both carbs so I seated them. Cant say it helped. I tried adjusting the low speed screws to get smoother idle. Just not happening.
I find that if I turn the rear carb low speed mixture screw all the way in, the engine will die. If I do the same on the front carb it wont kill the motor. I decided to check pop off pressure. Book says 27-39 and someone on this forum said 38 would be best. I first checked pop pressure on my old carbs 34&35. I checked the new carbs, Front 25 and rear 35. Checked them a couple times. Could low pop pressure cause a rich condition? Cant quite get my head around that. I tried adjusting the tang to raise the pressure but cant get it above 30 even with the tang bent way more than recommended. I thought these new carbs were made by aisin which is what I use on jap cars with no problem. Any guidance would be appreciated. Im ready to cut this thing into pieces and throw it in the dumpster like I did my 1988 bombardier.
Thank much
Ralph
I have been a auto technician for 45 years but have yet to work on a 2 stroke car.
I have read many posts trying to figure this out. I will give as many details as I can.
Been maintaining my 96 XP for 15 years. I usually can figure things out.
I have done the carbs twice in that time with good results.
I live in Virginia so it only gets used in summer.
Got it out on memorial day to get ready for summer. Ran fine when I put it away last fall.
It started fine, Idled 5 minutes to get past no wake buoys, hit the throttle, it launched as usual, after 30 seconds it dropped like I was on one cylinder. Puttered back to the dock. Pto cylinder was cooler than mag cylinder so I figured plug was bad. Installed new plugs (I keep on hand) , fired right up and seemed to be okay. Idled back out, hit the gas, life was good for about 30 seconds and back to the dock I go. Nosed it up against the dock and throttled up. Sometimes it would tach up and sometimes it just sputtered on one cylinder. Seemed to have spark so I introduced a squirt of carb cleaner to rear carb when it was acting up, did not help.
I tried for two weekend to figure it out but couldn't. I took it to a shop that still works on 2 strokes, it sat there a month before he got to it. He said they tested it and drove it for half hour and had no problem. I paid the checkout and took it home. I put it in the water and sure enough it did not lose power for the 15 minutes that I drove it, however it was not smooth running except at almost full tilt. Lots of sputtering at idle and mid range. I couldn't get response from mixture screw on rear carb so I pulled the carb and just cleaned it out without any new parts. Down hill from there. It was worse. Pulled the front carb and started to disassemble it. The fuel pump was corroded in side and the gaskets had shrunk. I got the go ahead from the boss to spend the money on new carbs. I bought a pair of titan carbs that were supposed to be direct replacements. They came with an external accelerator pump that mine didn't have. I installed them and the ski runs like shit unless you are wide open. Sounds like it has a race cam in it at idle and mid range on top of the fact that it hesitates, boggs sputters and falls on its face until WOT.
The plugs are wet when I check them so I thought to rich. My seadoo specs say the high speed mixture screw should be seated and low speed roughly 1 turn out. Well the high speed srew was out 1 turn on both carbs so I seated them. Cant say it helped. I tried adjusting the low speed screws to get smoother idle. Just not happening.
I find that if I turn the rear carb low speed mixture screw all the way in, the engine will die. If I do the same on the front carb it wont kill the motor. I decided to check pop off pressure. Book says 27-39 and someone on this forum said 38 would be best. I first checked pop pressure on my old carbs 34&35. I checked the new carbs, Front 25 and rear 35. Checked them a couple times. Could low pop pressure cause a rich condition? Cant quite get my head around that. I tried adjusting the tang to raise the pressure but cant get it above 30 even with the tang bent way more than recommended. I thought these new carbs were made by aisin which is what I use on jap cars with no problem. Any guidance would be appreciated. Im ready to cut this thing into pieces and throw it in the dumpster like I did my 1988 bombardier.
Thank much
Ralph
