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95 xp or 96 xp

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Nice looking ski. As for painting the hood, I wouldn't. Try cleaning first, Castrol Super Clean and a scrubie. Zippo lighter fluid and a lot of elbow grease will take the mildew (black stuff) off the hood and handlebar cover. Followed by Mothers Back to Black.

Lou
 
Here are some more pictures.
I'm gonna get it in the water before I do anything. Just to make sure it at least moves before i worry about everything else.

Vts does nothing when you hit the up button, and only clicks when you hit down
ada19045-bca5-9870.jpg


This is the oil he was using. Should I stick with or change?
ada19045-bdb0-1144.jpg


This being the gray fuel lines that will be replaced.... Id say they are more cream colored
ada19045-be01-2b51.jpg


I'll get some more up later.


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The gauges for the Vts and speed are bad. Definatly wanna at least fix the Vts one.
30.jpg

Looks like an updated boot and clamps.
31.jpg

Misc. Other photos
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37.jpg


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Just some observations.
1. The VTS is not working because water entered through where the boot is missing. Since you said you want it working a temporary fix would be to remove the VTS motor, inside you'll find a large plastic, move the block about halfway and reinstall the VTS motor.

2. Stay with the same oil the previous owner used.

3. Yes change the grey tempo fuel lines ASAP.

4. PM minnetonka4me and get some good used gauges.

5. The check valve/vent on the top of the oil tank is correct, a hose does NOT connect here.

6. From outward appearance it looks like the carbs. were recently rebuild, the return lines from the carbs. to the "Y" connector look new, it would still be a good idea after you replace the fuel lines to take a look inside the carbs. and also clean the carb. filters.

7. The small oil injector lines have been replaced with tygon lines, this is good.

Overall the ski looks real good and with the exception of the fuel lines, and the VTS the previous owner took good care of the ski.

Lou
 
Just some observations.
1. The VTS is not working because water entered through where the boot is missing. Since you said you want it working a temporary fix would be to remove the VTS motor, inside you'll find a large plastic, move the block about halfway and reinstall the VTS motor.

2. Stay with the same oil the previous owner used.

3. Yes change the grey tempo fuel lines ASAP.

4. PM minnetonka4me and get some good used gauges.

5. The check valve/vent on the top of the oil tank is correct, a hose does NOT connect here.

6. From outward appearance it looks like the carbs. were recently rebuild, the return lines from the carbs. to the "Y" connector look new, it would still be a good idea after you replace the fuel lines to take a look inside the carbs. and also clean the carb. filters.

7. The small oil injector lines have been replaced with tygon lines, this is good.

Overall the ski looks real good and with the exception of the fuel lines, and the VTS the previous owner took good care of the ski.

Lou

great to hear thats its well kept. i will pm him about gauges.... i am working on the trailer first (rewire and need a jack and wheel in the front as you can see it sits on the ground)
once i get the trailer to where i am comfortable driving it to my shore house i will be getting it in the water and testing her before i change ANYTHING. i dont wanna take stuff apart twice (work smarter not harder)
 
Just to be safe i'd replace the VTS boot with a new one. It is $15 and cheap insurance once VTS is working again. Really check the current boot too if you do plan to keep it. It could be ripped/torn in the middle and not noticable right away.
 
has anyone tried to install a larger fuel tank in these.... i see it has the 9 gallon tank and is apparently only good to run at full throttle for about 45 minutes.... i know im not gonna be full throttle all the time but a little longer running time would be great to get closer to my dads gts which is like 1 hour and 45 minutes.
 
there is a "t tank converstion" where you take the 12 gallon tank out of the gts, earily gtx/gti. learry is doing it right now. more info on the more resent pages of the x4 thread.
 
there is a "t tank converstion" where you take the 12 gallon tank out of the gts, earily gtx/gti. learry is doing it right now. more info on the more resent pages of the x4 thread.
Any idea what page I checked the last 10 pages and didn't see anything



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the baffle is the same. the "fuel pump" is inside the carb. its a diaphragm that pulls full to fill the water separator and the gravity along with the suction from the diaphragm feeds the fuel to the carbs.
 
put a 2 gal gas tank in your storage container. or even bigger if you remove both purple housings. The motor has to come out to put the tank in. You'll lose your front hood storage too. Red can in the front and you'll still have storage.

Scott
 
put a 2 gal gas tank in your storage container. or even bigger if you remove both purple housings. The motor has to come out to put the tank in. You'll lose your front hood storage too. Red can in the front and you'll still have storage.

Scott

x2
thats what I do
 
The tank from a 96 GTi or GTS will fit right in and give you 12 gallons instead of 9. You need to pull the engine out to get it in. You must relocate the electrical box closer to the side of the hull, eliminate the front storage, and use the GTS/GTi fuel sender & tank straps. You will also have to get some flexible marine fuel filler hose and loop it around to the front of the tank where the inlet is. You will have to route & tie up the filler hose so as not to put any stress on the filler neck of the tank. Also, it's best to use T-bolt clamps on the filler hose. It's a good idea to check it frequently.

Chester
 
The tank from a 96 GTi or GTS will fit right in and give you 12 gallons instead of 9. You need to pull the engine out to get it in. You must relocate the electrical box closer to the side of the hull, eliminate the front storage, and use the GTS/GTi fuel sender & tank straps. You will also have to get some flexible marine fuel filler hose and loop it around to the front of the tank where the inlet is. You will have to route & tie up the filler hose so as not to put any stress on the filler neck of the tank. Also, it's best to use T-bolt clamps on the filler hose. It's a good idea to check it frequently.

Chester

If I'm eliminating my front storage then I would just put a 5 gal jug up there instead of only 3 extra...... Sounds like I'm sticking to a little red jug


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I had the same issue with a 1996 SP. I used Castroll SuperClean and a stiff brush on the handlebar pad and it looks beter but still 15 years old. On the plastic hood use a heat gun very carefully and the plastic will look as good a new. If you do a search on the web you will find it is very easy but keep the heat moving because you can burn the plastic. I used it on the gas cap and the side venty where your knees go.
 
Dont paint it, instead get a heat gun and go over it withi that. What you're essentially doing is melting the top layer of the plastic and brinigng out the color. Be sure to clean all the stains off of it (as much as you can). I resort to laquer thinner for really tough stains (be careful, it will take the paint off of stickers/painted objects). Don't use harsh solvents on your steering cover though, it will dissolve the rubber compound and screw up the texture.
 
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