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95 xp dead in the water at almost wot..

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2fastnotfurious

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So I'm a complete noob to the jetski world so please bear with me.
Here's a history: sorry if its a novel!

I got a great deal on an xp 2 weeks ago again I'm a noob so you'll prbably laugh. I when to the guys house and we started it up and it starts on the first push and runs great. The guy tells me that there is a seal in it that need to be replaced but all in all its good to ride so I leave him with a deposit of 200 buck and take the beast out to the lake on my dime.. I get it to the lake and put it in the water, start it and again starts on first push and away I go (again try not to laugh this is stupid as f $#*) within 5 feet I notice I'm taking on water fron what I now know as tha driveshaft seal. The motor runs long enough to get it back to the truck at idle but dies from sucking water.. and it is essentially a bathtub water up to the seat. Of course I'm pissed as f... cuz this dude told me it was good to go and let me off with it! I took it back to the guy and of course me knowing dirtbikes and such you wanna blow out the motor immediately. So I started to do so at the guys house. It worked till the starter soleniod gave our because dude was riding it... so he tells me he's gonna keep my deposit and ill keep the ski till we figure out what to do.. that night I bypassed the soleniod and got it back running and blew it out for 20 mins. Careful not to overheat it.. whent back to the guy and told him I'd give him another hundred to make the deal fair.. total in it 300 sweet! I replaced the driveshatft bearing/seal, inspected the dshaft and everything looked great. I changed the pto seal and the bullett oil.. again starts up runs great.. took it out on the water made sure I had oil, fuel and good battery.

So get it in the water and this thing isn't leaking and it running like a bat out of hell.. its fast and has obvious power. I ride it for about an hour and I'm on my way back to the dock at almost wot and the lights on the dash all 4 light up and it just dies like the lanyard was pulled..I tried starting it again on the water but it just turned overprobably 10 rotations and then acted like a dead battery. Starter knocked like it was trying to engage but not turning. So I swim it back to shore and again tried to turn it over and same stuff. So I took the plugs out and turned ut over to make sure it wasn't seized and it turned over but seemed slower than normal. And when I try to turn the pto by hand it seems labored.. so any ideas as to the culrate? I'm thinking either the bullet siezed the pump cuz it still has good compression. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.. on a side note the fuel light was on the entire ride, but I had a full tank.
 
The fuel baffles for the gauges go bad all the time and the float sinks or the magnets come loose from the bouncing,not a big deal. First thing to do is to charge and make sure your battery is good. It needs to be load tested and hold at least 12.2 volts.

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take the spark plugs out(put boots on grounding posts) and turn over by hand. is it completely free and smooth both directions?

sounds like your battery isn't that great, use a car battery to test(never jump start from a running car, it will ruin your electronics) and use starter to turn over with plugs out and listen for abnormal noises or laboring, should spin very fast and smooth for 5 seconds straight. if it all sounds good, check compression. if compression is good around 150psi, then test spark and report back.

I suspect you have internal engine damage or have taken out the stator, or both.

pump seizure won't hit your electronics which is what it sounds like happened when your gauge lights flashed at shut down, so would guess electrical failure due to mechanical failure in stator, but you can pull your pump to verify.
 
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I second the stator. If the engine turns over slowly by hand, Odds are the stator or pickup is rubbing on the flywheel. Another thing that can cause the lights to go wonky and starter have reduced power is a bad ground.. Double check your battery connections and the block connection.
 
Thanks so much for the feedback guys! Ill be taking the beast apart tomorrow to try and figure out the problem. Thanks for the ideas! Ill check back as soon as I have some new info.
 
Ok time for an update..
1. Checked compression again 130 in bot cylinders
2. Seems like I'm getting sufficient spark in both cylinders which to me rules out the stator.
3. I found out that the resistance was actually my starter not disengaging.
4. I found the plugs bone dry.. even after turning it over for about 10 mins with a charged battery( it now turns over fine.)

So to me this means that I'm not getting fuel.. but here's the thing, fuel tank looks to mr half full and I have installed on the fuel line after the fuel switch a glass window fuel filter and I can watch as I turn the motor over it goes down lie uts going into the carbs but no fuel smell and only the very faintest of chance firing.. does this sound like time for a carb rebuild? I mean it was driving like a beast 2 days ago.... or should I do the "gray fuel line swap" and hope for the best..
Or am I just way off base?
Any help is appreciated! Thanks guys!
 
Always get rid of the gray lines, get rid of that inline filter, it may decrease the flow. Remove the carbs and check the internal filters.
 
Ok will start on this on wed. But in the meantime should I do the fuel baffle fix and anything else while I'm at it? I wanna get as much done as i can at once so i dont have to do it again down the road.. And will I need any seals to remove the carbs?
 
Oh and the inline filter was already in the boat when I got it so I'm guessing that it didn't cause it to die but I could be wrong.. I guess ill find out!
 
I don't know about the lights, but if it has gray fuel lines then yes, those need to be replaced and the carbs cleaned and clean the fuel selector switch. I don't know if an hour of riding lean is enough to do engine damage but that compression is a little low (150 is good on seadoos 717-787) depending on a good battery charge and a quality gauge. Good ground can come and go, especially if you just filled the bilge with water. Verify that none of the eboxes are still full of water. If you got it for $300 and it runs, you did good.
 
OK yea, the compression was about 140 with a $30 Screw- in harbor freight gauge so I'm guessing that its OK for now but will need an overhaul soon. I plan to upgrade after this season anyways I figure this will be a good beginner boat.. The thing is that none of the e-boxes ever got water in them thank goodness so I should be good there as they were sealed up good and bone dry when I changed the Starter solenoid. One thing I did notice is that the Gray ebox in the front was no longer mounted to the floor any more and was loose after my ride which means that it was bouncing around in there while I was riding. Is there something in there that could have bounced loose?
I'm just worried because usually whenever I've run out of gas or had a clog it has never been that immediate in my cars or motorcycles ( been a long time since I rode 2 strokes tho).. Doesn't It usually give you a bog or a little hesitation first? this time there was no warning just WOT to 0.. I'm hoping that I haven't fried something in the process..
 
agreed with bellman, you could've nicked a wire with it bouncing/rubbing around in there. verify all wires.
 
Ok I will check the connections today, just curious though would a loose wire effect more thank the spark? Because I do have decent spark but am getting no fuel.
 
No, there are no electrical components in your fuel system. You can see if you're pumping fuel by removing the return line and cranking the motor over. Be careful as you're likely to get a bunch of gas to come out of that hose. Prepare a rag or something to catch it. If you have grey fuel lines, stop right there, replace them, and clean out all your fuel system components. Grey fuel lines create a molases-type substance that gums everything up. Your needles could very well be stuck totheir seats. I would clean out the carbs, fuel selector and try again.
 
Update- got thru the carb clean and found the internal fuel filter in the carb completely gunked and crudded up I mean I couldn't even get car cleaner through it let alone fuel.. so tomorrow I will be putting the carbs back in and replacing the remaining gray fuel lines as I keep finding crap on everything they touch almost a blue grease consistancy on everything. I don't know what the designers were thinking puting these pieces of crap as fuel lines but they sure cut a huge corner with these! Anyways still don't know if it'll fix the problem but I have a feeling it will at least help.
 
Make sure to remove those fuel lines before putting those carbs back on. If not and you run it again with they tempo lines you basically waisted your time rebuilding the carbs, as they will be clogged again with the blue-green gunk.
 
ok so Ive finished with the fuel line swap and now Im finding a wierd thing going on... This is like a gremlin is messing with me! One of the carbs is almost like its flooding and the other seems like its not doing anything but heres the wierd thing.. Im only getting airflow through the flooded carb.. The other is like its dead.. but I have good compression in both cylinders... so would this mean the Rotary valve is stuck or broken?
 
Wait, how are you measuring this? Sounds like maybe you have a stuck needle in the carb. Did you make sure fuel can transfer from one carb to the next (no blockage in the 2nd carb's inlet)? It's pretty important that both carbs deliver proper amounts of fuel. You wouldn't want a lean condition on one cylinder.
 
Yes I did.. but the problem actually isn't with fuel at this point.. there actually isn't any air movement on the in the pto side carb and on the other side I can feel intake and exhaust.. I'm taking apart my rotary valve to confirm..
 
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