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95 spx threw only one piston/cylinder
- Thread starter dougwj
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onebadcav00
New Member
could be a alot of things. carbs, oil, crank seals.
I recently posted a question. Why is it always the front cylinder that goes out?
No answers.
So, tell me, was it your front cylinder?
No answers.
So, tell me, was it your front cylinder?
shoot'n you pm.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
Without any pics... or me holding the engine... it's impossible to say.
As above... some times... it's just time for it to give up. Engines don't last forever... and not all of them will run long enough to just loose compression from warn out rings and pistons. If the wrong oil gets used... the piston skirts could wear, and in turn, shatter. or they could break from heat cycles, and metal fatigue. If the ski has sat for any length of time during it's life... the crank or bearings could have built some rust, and when it was brought back to life... the bearings and seals could have gotten ripped up.
Post up pics, and we may be able to help... but as for now... you will just have to blame it on old age.
Let's face it. Your engine is 15 years old, and it's in an application where it gets abused. Full throttle, sits for long periods of time, old fuel, and lots of rust causing water.
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Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
To answer you question on the first post... no, I would not just do a top end. Your crank is old, and needs rebuilt too. Even if the bearings are OK... they won't be for long. Also... if the crank seals are warn out... a air leak can cause your new top end to burn up.
You need to do a full rebuild.
You need to do a full rebuild.
I have 2 older model myself and agree with Tony about doing the crankshaft unless you have recent knowledge that it is in real good condition, doing an air test on the rotary valve gear box would tell you about the oils seals that are the known troublemakers on an aged motor - did it smoke a lot after a 3-4 week rest? did you use the same type oil as last year, if not you may have thick gel in the small oiling tubes or filter causing slow or no oil to reach the sliding parts of the motor - the rotating parts can go a long time until you overspeed jumping waves or pull tubes all day - find the source of the problem and not the effect.
alright thanks for the feedback. i would have posted pics but my cylinders were already in the shop. im gonna flush out the bottom end. the situation was my wifes uncle had it sitting in his driveway for about to years cause he didnt want to put money into it. but the body is perfect and he sold it to me for 50 bucks. so i dont mind putting the money into to it. but ill try and get a couple pics up
Be sure to flush out the case with kerosene, the first time pour over a cloth over a bucket to observe any sparkly stuff meaning something down there has been abused, and the rods are tight not wiggly loose, you got it for the right price so go thru the fuel system to be sure there is no air leaking in to cause erratic leanout running that will wipe out the new work, while you are waiting for cyls to return read here about the grey fuel line stuff and get that in order - you will be rewarded with little if any breakdown drama when you catch this stuff early on-shore.
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