'95 Seadoo XP Cleanup/Minor Overhaul

[racerxxx]

The aluminum corrodes and expands and the knobs get stuck on there. I've had to pry mine off every ski just about. When I put them back together i put a dab of grease on there and the screw too so it won't lock up hopefully.

 

[bwhite]

Any recommendations on where I might get some decent condition replacement knobs? Pretty sure I scarred mine up, unfortunately.

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[racerxxx]

Any recommendations on where I might get some decent condition replacement knobs? Pretty sure I scarred mine up, unfortunately.

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Why yes, yes I do.

Guy has 2, you ain't gonna get a better deal on 2, and they're the correct yellow!


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Sea...212-/151476583224?hash=item2344b53b38&vxp=mtr


Here is just one

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Sea...212-/231504536769?hash=item35e6bee4c1&vxp=mtr


Here is a guy hitting the cronic

http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-96-Sea-D...OEM-/151383683837?hash=item233f2bb2fd&vxp=mtr

 

[bwhite]

Awesome, ordered. Thanks a ton! Want these suckers running right and looking good!

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[bwhite]

What type of grease would you recommend? Lucas Marine Grease?

 

[racerxxx]

Wheel bearing, seadoo pto, bacon, really whatever you have. It's better than nothing.

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[bwhite]

Bacon grease it is! Haha, I'll probably toss some marine grease on it then. Thanks!

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[bwhite]

Well, we tore the carbs back apart on those skis.. putting 4 all new kits in them. It also looks like the fuel in there is old or something.. has like this orange tint to it.

 

[racerxxx]

Drain, clean, and refill.

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[bwhite]

Drained the fuel tank, rebuilt the carbs. One ran great out the gun, the other hesitated as if it was loaded up. Made a half turn in on low speed screws and let it sit for a while. It runs great now, just gotta idle them both up a bit and we should be good to go mechanically.

Terrible weather this evening, but it cleared up enough to run a few rounds around the lake with butter smooth water.

 

[bwhite]

Well, the one is doing just about the same thing as before now. Low end has extreme hesitation and for some reason after filling the gas tank up its difficult to start.

I can hear the engine kind of sputtering, very odd. Seems to be lacking a little power.
[MENTION=57920]racerxxx[/MENTION] could you chime in when you get the chance?

 

[bwhite]

I went to idle it up a bit, and realized the exhaust elbow (purple piece) that is to the opposite side of the carbs is missing a bolt. When fired up in water it's leaking water pretty good.

This would cause some missing, would it not? I've since beached it. What are the next steps I should go about?

 

[racerxxx]

The exhaust has to be sealed good. If it's leaking exhaust it will be ingesting that back in and choking the engine. If one of the 4 bolts has broken you need to look at the 2 rubber bushings that mount the pipe to the side of the engine. If they are loose or worn out you will continue to snap bolts.

 

[bwhite]

Figured I'd share the snapped stub. Ill see if I can see the bushings. Think that's the issue?

 

[racerxxx]

Could be, it's kinda typical. Or people are lazy and only put one back in. It's a lot of stress on the manifold bolts. I'm sure it's was what led to someone replacing the studs on my HX prior to me getting it.



http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?61936-717-720-Exhaust-manifold-repair-with-HeliCoil&

 

[bwhite]

Will I have to do all of what you did? I figured it'd be as simple as clearing the broken bolt, checking threads and replacing as per shop manual specs. Replacing the gasket as well.

EDIT: Might I add it snapped the part of the stud that is held by the nut. Any particular procedures to remove it? I have a set of screw/bolt removers that I hope will work.. Not sure anything else, haven't though about it.

 

[racerxxx]

Now it's getting dangerous. If you can get that stud out clean you're good to go. Hopefully you don't need to do what I did. I just didn't like the cobbled mess some one else left me.

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[bwhite]

Just thought about another thing.. To replace that gasket, I'm going to have to get all the other bolts out too. Will that be an issue?

EDIT: I have a few images of the bushings and the snapped stud placement over at http://imgur.com/a/Mk5Tt

 

[bwhite]

I'm thinking I may want to let a machinist pro handle the broken stud extraction, but should I follow any techniques to removing the other three regular bolts? According to the shop manual, they used Loctite 242 on the three bolts, whereas the stud had loctite 648.

I know I have a bunch of questions, but rather ask the pros before I screw something up further. Finally, after I get that all taken care of.. replacing the bushings and piecing it all back together. Any tips/tricks I should know about? I ordered all new bushing rubber, the bushing sleeve itself, a replacement stud, a few extra bolts (just in case), and a replacement exhaust head gasket. I already have loctite blue 242, but should I use some other sealant along with that gasket?

 

[racerxxx]

If the other screws are out a little already ( iirc---I looked at the pics earlier) just spray then your wd and back them out carefully. The gasket should go on dry.

 

[bwhite]

Okay, last question for now.. Do I need to reseal the clamp that connects the tubed pipe assembly and the exhaust pipe cone? If so, what with?

 

[bwhite]

Got the old bolts out nice and smooth with some WD-40, I don't think I'm going to be able to get it out as I had originally planned by disconnecting the elbow that mounts the cylinder exhaust manifold and the exhaust cone alone. (I'd have to break more seals.. ehh, no thanks).

Hoping I'll be able to leave the two connected and lift the two out of the hull. Any idea what the approx. weight of those will be, think it'll clear the head of the engine?