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'95 Seadoo XP Cleanup/Minor Overhaul

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mikidymac said:
Many different opinions on this one. Personally I keep my tank clean and only run the OEM strainer and carb filters and have never had an issue. Others like the added filtering of the G2. As far as securing just ziptye it to the factory squares in the hull.
Click to expand...

^^^^^X2

I always buy a new fuel strainer, oh, and every X4 gets a new fuel tank too under recall, LOL. I like my stuff to look sanitary, the big G2 just looks like a sore thumb bobbing around. But everyone has their own set up.
 
Call your dealer and see if your tanks have been replaced under the recall. All you need is the HIN numbers and they can check right then and there via the interwebs.
 
Well, I the fuel lines, and cleaned the carbs... Ski #2 is running great now. Ski #1 is still giving issues. I had a marine guy help clean the carbs (diaphragm, checked needle and seat) seemed decent condition afterwards, but they did have a slight bit of gunk in them. Next steps?

On another note, he mentioned it'd probably be best to use non-ethanol gas (whereas I've been running 93-octane). Thoughts?
 
We can go back and forth on non-eth gas all day long it's like opening Pandora's box. It's all I can get and it's all I run. Not a damn bit of difference to me. I put sta-bil in and I'm good to go. I never think twice about it. As a matter of fact I think the skis were engineered to run on 87 or 89 octane. I typically run 89 but my stuff is bone stock.
 
I figure I'll get all new fuel filters on both, actually realized I have an OEM sealed fuel filter ass'y as well. Only other thing I can think of is possibly changing out the fuel selector. But it does the same thing in RES as well. Sucking air maybe?
 
Tough to say, I replace everything. Easier than chasing problems for me, just more expensive. But honestly, EVERYTHING should be replaced in the fuel system. Lines, selector switch, water separator, carb rebuilds, needle and seats, the whole enchilada.
 
10-4! That's my thoughts as well, order it all.. get it over with and out on the water before fall.
 
Sorry about the double post.. Recommendations on where to get the fuel selector and maybe an extra plastic nut?
 
I am on the west coast so I get all my OEM parts from Pro Caliber out of Oregon.

Not sure on the East coast. SBT is close to you but some of their small parts are questionable quality. PWC Muscle is there too and has great prices on WSM parts. I have used the WSM fuel valves before with good results.
 
I did some searching on PWCMuscle and couldn't really find those fuel selectors. Ordered a pair from SBT and will let you know the next time I take them out how it does.

Also realized factory specs for high speed wasn't 1/4 turn out like I thought it was. Completely closed is what it calls for in factory spec. I had it at 3/8's briefly. Haven't ran it more than probably 5 minutes like that. Will make those adjustments and change the filters and let everyone know where it stands.

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I would check those SBT fuel selectors. They have been know to be bad out of the box. Most of the SBT small parts are not great quality.

For WSM parts here you need to contact forum member hfgreg
 
How would you recommend I check them? Air compressor?

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Update, I changed the high speed and they're both doing the same thing, one is hiccuping every so often until finally it starts bogging pretty bad. The other I can barely even get to stay running. Going to try fully cleaning the carbs and see what that does.

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bwhite said:
How would you recommend I check them? Air compressor?

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Click to expand...

This is going to sound bad, if you don't have a mighty vac or something like that just turn to ON and cover the on port with your finger and suck on the out line and you shouldn't get any air into the valve then turn to RES and do the same.

With a new valve you just want to make sure it isn't going to suck air past the seal where the knob rotates.
 
mikidymac said:
With a new valve you just want to make sure it isn't going to suck air past the seal where the knob rotates.
Click to expand...

Fingers crossed they both work well. Looks like there's a lot of work to be done.

Another thing. On one of the skis, when we had the carbs off of the motor this past inspection, we noticed the crank case was practically full of fuel. Should I go ahead and replace both MAG and PTO needles/seats for that ski?
 
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Any recommendations for my model ski on rebuild parts? I did have the carbs rebuilt 2 years ago, but should I still go ahead and replace the diaphragms and rubber gaskets while cleaning? Jets? Springs?

My model ski has two Mikuni BN-38I carbs, I believe. (Super BN 38mm Square Body Carb) The needle is 1.2mm, I think? Not sure the spring.

Should I stay away from SBT?
 
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Update: both of those fuel selectors seemed good using the mouth vacuum test.

I managed to strip one of those screws getting the knob off of the fuel selector. Can I use a typical screw extractor to get it out?

Sidebar-- Think these will work on my carbs? They're a pain in the butt to get to and adjust mounted.
 
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I did the same thing when I went to replace my fuel selector. I just went ahead and drilled out the top of the
Screw till the head was gone, then pulled off the knob. Your replacing the valve, so just pick up a new Allen
Head SS screw for the new valve, and pitch the old one.
 
Holy smokes man, these knobs are a pain in the butt to get off.. I can't get them off with vice grips, and there isn't any room to pry them off between the label disk floating around the knob and the knob itself. Now this one turns almost freely around (the actual valve inside). Could I be damaging the fiberglass trying to get it off?

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Did you not read my post? Vise grips? Pry it off? No, no, no! Drill the head of the screw off, and lift off the
Knob. So what if you have a stuck screw in the valve that you are going to throw in the trash anyway......
 
No, not the screw. I got that out. The knob was stuck on after removing the screw and washer. Sorry, should've been more clear.

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Some of that and WD-40. Let it sit for a good 20 minutes and still didn't budge.

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