'95 Seadoo XP Cleanup/Minor Overhaul

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bwhite

bwhite

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Some of you already know that I own two garage-kept, yet slightly abused (forgotten for 6 years) '95 SeaDoo XP's (720cc). Though I have another active thread about a bogging mechanical issue (on, now both of them) I figured I would also work on the minor electrical issues and such. Here's what I'm working with... and will update as I progress. (Want I to post pictures?)

163.jpg


Ski #1
  • Fuel Level Baffle (Repaired, float magnet came loose)
  • Fuel Gauge (Non-Functional, Replacing soon)
  • Tachometer (Non-Functional)
  • Warning Buzzer (Non-Functional?)
  • Grey Fuel Lines (Replacing)
  • Low-Point Oil Return Line (Burnt Through)


Ski #2
  • Fuel Level Baffle (Repaired, float magnet came loose)
  • Warning Buzzer (Non-Functional?)
  • Grey Fuel Lines (Replacing)


Minor Q&A
Q: My 7/32" Deep Well (1/4" Drive) will not fit deep enough to split the hood apart. What can I use?
A: None yet...

Q: Where is the warning buzzer located on this ski, and shouldn't it beep when I plug the lanyard in?
A: Under the steering pad. Thanks [MENTION=33508]ocod[/MENTION]!

Q: What type of pressure gauges can I use to test the oil/fuel systems after running new lines?
A: None yet...
 
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bwhite said:
Some of you already know that I own two garage-kept, yet slightly abused (forgotten for 6 years) '95 SeaDoo XP's (720cc). Though I have another active thread about a bogging mechanical issue (on, now both of them) I figured I would also work on the minor electrical issues and such. Here's what I'm working with... and will update as I progress. (Want I to post pictures?)

Ski #1
  • Fuel Level Baffle (Repaired, float came loose)
  • Fuel Gauge (Non-Functional, Replacing soon)
  • Tachometer (Non-Functional)
  • Warning Buzzer (Non-Functional?)
  • Grey Fuel Lines (Replacing)
  • Low-Point Oil Return Line (Burnt Through)


Ski #2
  • Fuel Level Baffle (Repaired, float came loose)
  • Warning Buzzer (Non-Functional?)
  • Grey Fuel Lines (Replacing)


Minor Q&A
Q: My 7/32" Deep Well (1/4" Drive) will not fit deep enough to split the hood apart. What can I use?
A: None yet...

Q: Where is the warning buzzer located on this ski, and shouldn't it beep when I plug the lanyard in?
A: None yet...
Click to expand...

It's under the steering pad.
No two beeps on this model other than over heat from temp sensor in middle of head.

I regret selling mine :(
Great find BTW

I love the simplicity of the 717 vs the 787.
Wouldn't give that up for the extra 25 hp.

You can test it by shorting end that goes to sensor.
 
ocod said:
It's under the steering pad.
No two beeps on this model other than over heat from temp sensor in middle of head.

You can test it by shorting end that goes to sensor.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply! I'll do that tomorrow to see if all is well. Also trying to get into the hood (get the bolts loose to split the hood apart) so I can change out those gauges. Unfortunately the 7/32" socket with 1/4" drive gets fat too fast (about 1" deep) and I need another 1/2"-1" of slim length to grab the end of the bolt head.
 
You don't have to split the hood to pull the gauges( not on my 93 anyway) I just pulled the square cover
On the inside, and got all the gauges out no problem.
 
You don't have to split hood to get to tach?
@racexxxx or [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] use pvc pipe that has been heated and formed over nut holding gauge.

I ran mine with no fancy stuff.

My eye on the gas level every time I stopped or every hr to 2 non stop riding.
And always carried 2 gal premix fuel in the front compartment

And my ear to how the engine sounded at idle and on the gas. My face and my but dyno told me I pulling in the 7K rpms

:drool5:
 
Any idea the type of pressure gauge, and where I could get it, to test the oil/fuel circuit meets standards after running new line?
 
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bwhite said:
That, I could manage.. although I may not have a compressor on-hand.. That'll be an issue. Still pretty easy to make, so it seems.

Out of curiosity, does the arrangement of fuel hose on the baffle pick up matter? The reason I ask is because while working on the float, I may have mixed two up, not positive.
Click to expand...

Your going to have to get a flashlight and a mirror.
Its labeled but order depends on where you start.
 
Yeah the top of the baffle is labeled. The reserve and out\on have to be right, vent and return doesn't matter from what I've heard.
 
bwhite said:
That, I could manage.. although I may not have a compressor on-hand.. That'll be an issue. Still pretty easy to make, so it seems.

Out of curiosity, does the arrangement of fuel hose on the baffle pick up matter? The reason I ask is because while working on the float, I may have mixed two up, not positive.
Click to expand...

You dont need a compressor. IF you put a Schrader valve on the inlet to the gauge you can use a bicycle pump :)
 
I was just working on my 96' XP yesterday and with the hoses off it is very easy to read the fuel sender labels. On the top just outside of the fitting it is molded in for OFF, ON, VENT & RES.
 
I'll take a look at the baffle tomorrow while working on it.. BTW, that cheap pop-off gauge is perfect. Found everything w/o issue and moving forward. Planning to run new fuel line tomorrow. Fingers-crossed for no rain!
 
Replaced most of the fuel line today.. Those clamps are tricky. Glad I swapped them out too. Made sure to label them for quicker changes in the future. Also noted the arrangements in my shop manual.

For anyone wondering, the fuel baffle on the '95 XP717 is as follows (clockwise from left of wiring harness):
1) Reserve
2) Return
3) On
4) Vent

Unfortunately trying to take off one of the fuel selectors, when trying to unscrew the knob I stripped the screw--also noticed the selector (inside the hull) has a bit of free play. Probably about 10-15 degrees. Could I have broken the plastic nut underneath somehow? It's a bit loose, but the screw hasn't budged.

I did pick up some handy screw extractor tools and will attempt to remove them a bit further down the road.
 
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Any idea of where I could get translucent oil tubing for that RV return replacement? It looks either 1/4" or 5/16". I've checked most auto shops and they only have typical black hosing.
 
^ I looked for that also. I wanted to use the OEM hose because of its oil properties and cant find any new anywhere.
 
Me neither, I have no idea where to find this. Anyone else have a clue?

UPDATE: It appears to be part # 275 000 008. 12mm ID hose.
 
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Found some replacement line at a rubber place here in town. Coated for oil usage and is 12mm ID. The wall thickness is probably double that of the oem, so it doesn't bend as well. I will try it and see where I stand.
 
Now that I have replaced those fuel lines and will be cleaning the carbs up completely, think it'd be a good idea to put an in line filter and change out those other filters? Any recommendations on an in line filter, if so?
 
Fram G2 or the purilator work great. For the oil filter stick with oem



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!
 
Sounds good. Would it be alright to keep it running through the OEM Fuel filter still, or should I replace that, and add in the Fram G2 close to the carb (under seat)? Also, if I do the latter, any idea on how best to secure it to the hull?
 
Many different opinions on this one. Personally I keep my tank clean and only run the OEM strainer and carb filters and have never had an issue. Others like the added filtering of the G2. As far as securing just ziptye it to the factory squares in the hull.
 
I think I'll just pull the OEM filter and swap that out on both and see how it does. Any recommendations on that loose fuel selector? I'm hoping it's not fiberglass issues. Could it be, or is that not likely?
 
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