240 sportjet cooling question

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
Prob a stupid question but searches have only answered half my question. So the way i understand it is there is a line around the jet that creates a vaccum and pulls water into the engine, and you wont see water out the pee hole till 1500 rpms or above but what im wondering is how does it cool when idling? and how do you tell if it is? What im getting at is if i crank my boat and just idle no moving how is it putting water into the engine to cool it and how can i confirm it is?
 
Ummmmm........

Sort of... but no.


The pump makes pressure... and the water is forced into the engine.

At low RPM's... its (somtimes) normal for the pressure to not be high enough for water to come out the pee-hole. The reason for that is... the majority of the water comes out the exhust... and there are a few internal by-passes that allow the engien to drain when it's not running. BUT... most of the engiens I've worked on will still have some water coming out the pee-hole even at idle. If you have NO water at idel... you need to make sure that you aren't overheating. SO... make sure... 100%... that your buzzer, and starbord side temp sender are working. AND... get yourself a IR temp gun... and just check it over. But a general rule-of-thumb is... you can touch these engines while running... assumming the cooling is ok. It will be hot... but not sculding. (But don't burn youreslf, use the IR gun)
 
Ummmmm........

Sort of... but no.


The pump makes pressure... and the water is forced into the engine.

At low RPM's... its (somtimes) normal for the pressure to not be high enough for water to come out the pee-hole. The reason for that is... the majority of the water comes out the exhust... and there are a few internal by-passes that allow the engien to drain when it's not running. BUT... most of the engiens I've worked on will still have some water coming out the pee-hole even at idle. If you have NO water at idel... you need to make sure that you aren't overheating. SO... make sure... 100%... that your buzzer, and starbord side temp sender are working. AND... get yourself a IR temp gun... and just check it over. But a general rule-of-thumb is... you can touch these engines while running... assumming the cooling is ok. It will be hot... but not sculding. (But don't burn youreslf, use the IR gun)

What is a normal operating temperature, or maybe the question is at what temp should you be worried?

Thanks,
Dan
 
It's hard to say. There isn't a thermostat in these engines... so if the water is cold... it may never get above 100~120. But... like a typical engine... 180~190 Deg F would still be OK. 210 F would start to be "Hot".

Generally... the water coming out the pee-hole shouldn't burn you. Most of the time, on my boat... it's a "Warm Shower" temp.
 
Thanks dr. Im just trying to cover all basics before i start the break in procedure and never owning one of these boats im trying to learn as much as possible before starting. What was confusing me was i thought when in neutral the propellar wasnt turning, which leads to another question what if anything does putting the lever in nuetral do? Also i have a new temp sensor ordered, will verify the beeper works and i have an ir gun. Im so confused on proper break in procedure right now im not sure wich way ill go. I have what came with the ph and have read several ways online and in manuals but your (DR) way sure seems to be the easiest so will prob go that route.
 
Also dr what temp does the starboard sensor set the alarm off?

I'd have to look up the info... but I'm pretty sure it was 195 F.

...........What was confusing me was i thought when in neutral the propellar wasnt turning, which leads to another question what if anything does putting the lever in nuetral do? Also i have a new temp sensor ordered, will verify the beeper works and i have an ir gun. Im so confused on proper break in procedure right now im not sure wich way ill go. I have what came with the ph and have read several ways online and in manuals but your (DR) way sure seems to be the easiest so will prob go that route.


With a jet... the pump is always spinning. THe directional shifter just moves the bucket up and down. So... all the way up is forward. All the way down is reverse... and somewhere in the middle is "Neutral."


If you have a fresh rebuild... make sure you have 50:1 in the fuel tank. You need 30~40 gallons with extra oil.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Its a new powerhead and i plan on running the 50:1 premix. How much do you reccomend. Ive read anywhere from the first 10gl to the first 2 tanks? I understand how the shifter works the gate up and down, but what i meant was there isnt really a neutral when in the neutral position. thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Like the Dr said, at low idle, the pump may not push water out the pee hole. In all actuality, the pee hole is there to purge air from the top of block. When ya fire the engine, a quik blip of the throttle should purge the air. After the blip, usually you will see good flow at idle.

As to water temps, no stats cause her to run cool. Most don't see over 160F. At idle, she drops to 120 +/- intake water temp. The alarm threshold is pretty low, this allows the operator to be aware of a partially clogged intake way ahead of possible damage. The older alarms kicked in @ 159F, however Merc updated the sensor b/c some of the alarms would kick for no reason.

Breakin: I understand many have different ways to breakin different engines. I will note, for the last 15 yrs I have worked with nothing but Sport Jets. I strongly suggest following Merc's break in procedure. I have witnessed first hand how quickly the 2.5 will seize the lower two cylinders. WOT high combustion temps, then idle, with no thermostat and the high flow rate of the SJ cooling system will dramatically drop the lower two cylinder temps. This in effect squeezes the pistons. The squeezing may or may not seize the first time, but you'll hear the power head groan.

Now with the 240, you'll have a little leeway b/c the of the extra oil. However, the 200 Opti doesn't offer that luxury. I've seen a very high failure rate of reman Opti due to cold seize. The telltale sign is a scorching hot block, but no overheat alarm. The heat comes from the retracting block squeezing the pistons. When the PH seizes, water flow stops. The block "heat soakes" and gets very, very hot.
 
I was not aware of the pee-hole when I bought my boat this month. I remembered not seeing any water coming out of it but thought nothing about it until I reviewed some of threads on here. I got worried and started checking hoses, running temps and was going to go into the pump until I found a mud dobber nest inside the hole complete with spiders and a larva. Once I cleaned it out, water comes out at idle as well as at speed. I had the same problem with my other boat but the through hull ports were much bigger.
 
DR and Riverpro, both of you mention temp numbers but where are you reading these numbers with a ir gun at? Also as far as breakin. The paperwork that come with the head doesnt match the breakin in my mercury manual nor do either one ressemble either one of your guys break ins. So im still lost as to which one to use, but will prob just go with the one that came with the head. Which leads to the colling questions because it starts buy saying start and let idle for an hour and not on a hose. Before i put boat in water with new head and just let it idle for an hour I want to know all the ins and outs of the cooling system. And you guys have been very helpful, thanks.
 
I like a tank or two of extra oil. My islandia is 55 gal... and I ran 2 tanks. (That was 3 weekends) I think the official stance is one tank of fuel. (30 gal) But... it doesn't hurt to run it a little longer. It will just smoke a little more it idle.

Idling for an hour is just stupid. And to be 100% honest... it's not good for the engine. (when new)

Here's the deal.........


On a 2-stroke... the majority of the heat, from the piston... is sent to the cyl walls via the rings. When the rings are new... they aren't in full contact, and heat transfer is poor. Idling the engine is bad since you aren't doing anything to get those rings to seat... and the cooling water flow is at minimum.

When I would take a cutomers boat (or my own) after major engine work... I would back the trailer in the water... and start the engine. After a minute or so... I would touch the heads to make sure they were still cool (or use the IR)... and I would check the pee-hole for some flow. I would also check around the engine, looking for any water, fuel, or oil leaks. Once I'm saticfied... I would back it off... tie it up, and move the truck. Then... I would jump on the boat and go for a ride.


As far as "HOW" to do your break in... that's up to you. If it makes you feel better... keep the RPM's low... but you need to load the engine. (make it work) DO NOT go out, of hold it wide open for a long time. But... go out and enjoy it. Heck... you can even pull a tube if you want. (That will load it, and keep it in mid RPM's)



Just an FYI: When I was young... and racing SCORE desert series... I would put a new top-end in my bike, and it would basically get raced with nothing more than a good once over. (Zero break-in before getting pounded on)
 
Thats kinda what i was looking for. The hr idle seems extreme to me, but im no boat mechanic. We run dirt track and build all my motors. I run them at 3000 for 30 min burping the throttle everyonce in a while and take them straight to the track. I know that procedure works for me, done it many times. But i have never broke a merc in so im second guessing everything i think im gonna do.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top